Working on my first Hemi, 1956 354 car block 55 331 heads, I have a couple questions 1. Any one used the newer style beehive valve springs, if so what from what engine, 2. I looked at .100 over small block chevy intake valves 11/32 stem anyone using them they are right at stock hemi length. 3.Anyone running a stroker crank? I was thinking of 3.750 who's a good supplier. I am nearing retirement age, plan on building a 32 roadster to put the hemi in.
All I can say is beware of http://willysreplacementparts.com/ he sells some springs and valves that do not come close to .600 lift even though he says it will. Its a long and winding road if you lengthen the valve the rocker geometry is now off. Stenke Motorsports has rocker stands that can move the geometry back. Also Nick Smithberg did a lot of work on the Engine Masters Challenge with a 354 and Gene Adams would be a very good source. Call Nick if you want to know about heads and valves. You can Google Nick Smithberg - Facebook is blocked at work here
I've been away for too long... Good to see Hemi questions. The link to the Hemi Tech Index is in my signature line. Just click on the banner. Crank... Typically it seems the recipe is to use a 392 crank as your starting point. As far as I know, there is nothing you can buy that's off-t******lf, however I have been out of the loop for a bit and there might be something available. Are you looking for more lift, is that why you want beehive style springs?
There is no reason to mix and match valves on an early hemi, the correct equipment is available. same for valve springs, if you look around a little bit you will find that there is more performance stuff available today then there was back when these engines were popular. I have not run them so take what I say with a grain of salt, but from what I have read beehive springs are good for dampening harmonics in the valve train so to use them just for higher lift is not their only purpose. Even a low RPM mill can benefit from better dampening.
The early Hemi's have mid range torque, you don't need to rpm these engines to get power. Some one else will chime in, but I don't think you need .600 lift or stroker for the street in a 32. Good info on the HAMB here. Get someone familiar with these engines. Not the same as sbc in cam timing, total ign. advance etc.
After you dream of all of the go fast combinations and decide what you really want out of the engine, call the Hemi experts and ask for real world advice. Theses engines are very expensive to build and you only want to buy parts once. Comp Cams and others have very good tech people that will help with cam and valve springs. I have run these engines on Nitro, Alcohol and gas and you don't need much over 6K RPMs. Torque is the name of the game.
I actually try to discourage .6 lift for most street engines. All things considered .5 will get you were you want to be more often then not. I think that most fellas don't understand that port work is your friend and that 354" of hemi is a lot of engine in an old Ford roadster. Sure you can build one balls to the walls but unless you are running for the money all you really need is something that will make you wet your pants when the light turns red. yea I meant red, until you have come up on a red light at 40 with about 700 ( or so) pounds in front of the fire wall you haven't lived. I cannot attest for the current climate all across the US these days but here a light can completely skip yellow and they do on a regular basis.
So when YOU dump the clutch or whatever in low gear with that, you will s**t yourself when the tires keep melting and want's to go everywhere but straight. Ask me how I know. Ago
a 392 crank will fit in a 354. the rods and mains need to be cut to a 354 and the thrust needs .050 added. mile high crankshaft modified mine. this will give you 389 with a .030 over bore or 392 with .060. this what i run in my 31 chrysler coupe. its a very cheap way to stroke the engine. only minimal grinding for rod clearance is needed. the cheap way to go on the rods is call hot heads and get their h-beam rods with the tang on the other side. then you can run 389 pontiac bearings that are cheap and easy to find at any parts store. adjust the rear suspension for a proper launch.
I'm aiming for just right - a relative term and subjective. Thinking this is a tad too much- also relative and subjective. So a more user friendly version minus the nitro should be just right
Hot Heads has valve train kits that would enhance the performance without having to re engineer everything.
100 long valves and missile rockers and stands is what i use. the missile stands lift and spread the shafts to correct the geometry. you need to do this if you want to go over 600 lift. hot heads sells them.
racer-x what lifters, pushrods and spring pressures are you running with your setup? I have the Missile rockers but no lifters and pushrods yet, looking at 325lbs on the seat, but the heads are not done yet so that could change.
Vic I probably got this wrong but that guy closing the hood looked a lot like Ed Pink. You hear a lot of fellas say that you can't have too much horse power, I usually write those guys off because they obviously haven't had too much yet. If you can't get it down the track or you have to peddle it to do so it is time to detune it a little bit. Oh I meant to say neat car, it will be a hoot to watch (and or drive) once they get it dialed in.
Hi Gary - its been a while since we last talked, I have slipped off the deep end of the pool Missile rockers and ported Hot Heads aluminum heads. The rockers can handle it - my wallet is showing stress cracks though
Dunno about 'Missle' rockers, when we ran blown alcohol we had Stage V rockers and 1.625 springs set up 2.00 @ 325lbs with about a 1/2" pushrod that tapered to 7/16ths,on a Dart head, which is probably what Hot Heads has cloned and marketing. Thats a pretty serious race setup, nothing for the street.
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