Too late, assuming Posgene went out exhaust. did it per sdluck 2 or 3 quick sprays hours ago, still alive and breathing ok. Hope alls well., will i wake up dead?
bumped timing to 12-14, rpm increased a bit which smoothed out the idle but idle went up to almost 1400. reduced to 1000 same result, rough then stall unless giving some gas. So talked to a friend who's got a garage, he said maybe the torque converter sticking so never lets engine free wheel a bit while going into gear. Didn't really buy it but over the last couple hours trying the different stuff then trying to put in gear the last two tries it did the nasty grind noise u get when putting in park while still rolling and I wasn't rolling as I had brake on? Any one think it could be the torque converter locked up making it stall? In effect converter stall rpm is too low? I know I'm starting to grasp.
With the vacuum at 11-12 but steady, its pretty low. A Road Runner 383 with a mild cam still runs pretty smooth, I suspect the cam may be a bit more then a mild cam. That could also explain the low vacuum reading. The cam could also be degreed in wrong. Some Mopars with bigger cams didn't like to idle in gear without a higher then stock stall converter. I also suspect the timing may still be retarded. Time it for the best vacuum reading, then set the rpm down to around 900, see if it runs better. As long as the motor doesn't ping, and it doesn't want to kick back against the starter when you try to start it, the timing is just a number. I quit using timing lights on my Mopars 30 years ago. Lets go back to the carb. what are the jets in it? Are you sure the motor is not loading up with gas as it tries to idle? I've owned a lot of Mopars over the years, I don't ever recall an auto trans making a nasty grinding noise when it was put into gear, could be a trans issue, with it sitting stationary for many years, its hard to tell what might have gotten stuck that is now showing up since you have forced it to try to function again. I have heard of the torque converters failing and doing all kinds of strange stuff, but that shouldn't have much of an effect on an idle problem. I've broken rear ends that have made nasty noises when the trans was put in gear, because even with the brakes on, the drive shaft could still turn with a broken center section. Gene
I redid the timing using the vac gauge method, the vacuum topped out at 15 inches this time. reset before resetting the rpm I leaned the idle mix screws a bit 1/2 turn as it smelled rich while idling, seemed to reduce the heavy smell. then brought idle down to 900rpm. seemed to idle smoother, very responsive to throttle w no hesitation but still wants to run rough and stall putting in gear or when stopping in gear as at a lite. Carb is a Holley 80457SA with .066 jets I'm leaning towards a friends diagnosis kinda as U've said too, he thinks either the converter got f''ed up sitting or the original builder put a poorly matched stall converter in it. I'm checking researching a B&M 10416 2000rmp or 10417 2400rmp The noise appears to have been a one time event as hasn't happened again. Wasn't really grinding, it was the noise an auto trans makes if its rolling a bit and put into park too soon. It wasn't going into gear it was going back into park after seeing if it would stall. That time it didn't just ran rough so went to put in park and heard it. shut down restarted and didn't do again so far. Interesting Q & A on Jegs on the page description for the 10417 converter. Guy asking question has exactly the same prob. " Q: I'm pretty sure I know this but I want to hear the feedback anyway . My 88 W150 HAD a 318 in it which they are all internally balanced , What I have in it now is a built 360 and I had it internally balanced and want to add a stall converter . Will this one work? It needs one to help with the idle speeds in gear due to having a high lift cam. Idling in park/neutral around 1200 but idles way to low when in gear to the point I have to keep my foot on it to keep it running. Asked by MICHAEL on November 02, 2018
exact syptoms more common than I realized, saw in Question & Answers on Jegs looking at torque converters Q: I'm pretty sure I know this but I want to hear the feedback anyway . My 88 W150 HAD a 318 in it which they are all internally balanced , What I have in it now is a built 360 and I had it internally balanced and want to add a stall converter . Will this one work? It needs one to help with the idle speeds in gear due to having a high lift cam. Idling in park/neutral around 1200 but idles way to low when in gear to the point I have to keep my foot on it to keep it running. Asked by MICHAEL on November 02, 2018 I called Jegs Tech. & he said common problem. Guy builds up peref'd engine & leaves stock converter, Perf. cam don't like it and the results R the issues I & Michael have. He recommended, https://www.jegs.com/i/ACC-Performance/082/54093/10002/-1 ACC Performance Street Bandit Level 1 Torque Converter 1967-Up Chrysler TF-727 (Non-Lock Up) Part Number: 082-54093
As said I used the Vacuum method to time taking Gene-Konings suggestion. Went to highest vacuum backed of slightly seemed at the time to let engine run a bit smoother. That was 3 days ago. Went out to mess w it as I had tried some tranny tune up juice to see if it’d help the torque converter issue to try to avoid pulling tranny. Started OK fast idle good, warmed up & slow idle seemed rough & reving caused backfiring. Rechecked Timing w Vacuum gauge and @ idle had dropped to 1” or 2 “, turning dist +- didn’t change it @ idle, so timed w lite @ 10 or 12 advanced & ran fine again but same minimal vac reading unless reving engine at which point would go to 15”s again? Opinions?
It sounds like you may have a bad or a sticking valve. I always have to look at the chart when diagnosing with a vacuum gauge, but some of the more learned will probably answer here.
Sounds to me like you are connecting your vacuum gauge to the distributor advance port on the carb. Max vacuum should be at an idle, not at a higher rpm, unless the motor is running real rich or has a vacuum leak. Gene
Dist is Mech no vac advance, coming off front upper part of Holley. I agree, idle should go down when reving up right? Backfiring stopped when I reset timing w lite. Engine sounded strong reving w foot on brake checking to see if engine would break up or backfire under load it didn’t. Car started spinning rear tires on concrete w no engine hesitation or backfire. I think a bad valve would have shown some engine roughness in that exercise, although not sure. Was’t testing 4 valve issues wanted make sure timing running good without anymore backfiring.
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