I run them on my 010 block 383. Running a 6-71 up top with twin 750's so may not be able to speak for you, but with 642hp at 6400 and 570ft/lb from 4000 through to 6000, I'm pretty chuffed with the 195 eliminators... Alot of others down here run them and have similar stories. Best bang in my opinion without having to modify alot (ie 227's). Do it once, do it right. My idea of fun, 6-71, 642hp, 570ft/lb, 11" tyre, 4.56 gears and two gears....
The vortech heads are low octain fuel heads from the factory. They shuldn't be a problem. I prefer aluminum heads for a car that is going to run on pump gas. I run my current 11.5:1 small block on premium in the summer and when it is cold in the winter I actually can get away with mid grade. There is actually more to it than just heads and compression. you want to try and keep your quench area @ .040 or very close to it. .040 is optimum or so I have read.
Aaggie what did you do to the vortec heads as far as springs? I know lift becomes a limitation at .48 and you can upgrade the springs to .525 or even .6....How much did you increase your springs for the lift. Thank you
best bang for your buck is taking whatever motor you have and treating it like that girl you loved an wish you didnt lose,clean it check every dimension make sure the cam an crank are running even end to end,when your done getting a shop to get it right cheap as possible hopefully by truing cam bearings a bit cause not many shops can line bore worth a crap learn how to cc heads and spend few months thinking cams then after all your research about rollers stick with stock chevy stamped an hydraulics if you decide to stay around .450 i run 320 ishs duration a set of flat tops with good set of those 416 305 heads you cc'd an cleaned up an ported an port matched best as you could will give you all the compression you want for the street i wont talk carbs i q jet guy nough said not drag racing want something fun to drive take me across the country any day of week also stock oil pump all you need and paint stock valve covers black make sure crankcase is vented run egr thats good for hp an the air google it learn how to adjust timing and adjust carb by reading plugs there aren't any short cuts no matter the build ,any sbc will make all the power a person wants if you take the time and no amount of throwing thousands on heads an carbs an cams will get you more, research build it yourself go for few thousand mile fun of life drive um i did
Amsoil sells a synthetic for old engines that has zinc. It is called Z Rod. There are other manufacturers that also sell oil with added zinc. This is the oil I use. Bob
We built a 400 for my son's truck with AFR heads, 4 Weber DCOE carbs, and Isky cam. Don't know the horsepower, but it is a great engine, lots of torque, with no heating problems. It is a reliable street engine that makes an occasional trip to the strip. My thoughts are, the longer the stroke, the more torque, with the trade off that the red line is lower. A blower easily makes up for the lack of displacement. Additionally, the sound is awesome. Bob
I wanted a big small block but didn't want the issues that the 400 blocks have. Wasn't looking for large hp numbers, more of a torque engine, a drivable engine for my street legal roadster with thoughts on trying it out on some local dirt tracks for a little fun. This is my 427, all new, all aluminum.
A SCAT 3-7/8 crank and a 400 GM or aftermarket block makes an Excellant engine. Ours is all iron and sees 6800-7000 all the time. Pistons are available off the self from .030" to .060" in .010" increments. With a little work a 4" crank will fit.
AFR heads are top of the line. No arguing that. But I would check out a set of Profiler heads made in Ohio. They are less money than AFRs and have most of, if not all the performance of the AFRs. I think somewhere in the range of $1700 versus $1200. I have a set of 210 profilers w/2.05 intakes and 64cc chambers on my 383. 11.0:1 CR Custom hydraulic roller cam. Makes 525 hp. The drawback to aluminum heads is you must zero-deck the block. Alum heads require a composite head gasket in the .040" thickness range. So zero deck is needed to maintain proper quench at .035"-.045"
wasn't written as a sentence,was written as a thought if your interest is how to write go to another site ,this one is for car ideas and people mouthing off without anything constructive to say and off topic are really not worth the beer reading when there is real sbc stuf to talk bout.
yuu haf tha rite ta yer opynian But you just have to know your statement is wrong. Is that constructive enough?
Yeah, he "stole" the idea from me, I have wanted to put a set of Webers on my big block since the 70s, but the cost kept holding me back. I have 4 Webers, but I don't have the big block manifold, so I am using a 69 high rise Corvette hi-rise manifold and a single Holley. I would probably be just as happy using a QuadraJet, I have one on my OT 454 and I like it as well. I do find that Holleys are easier to tune. Bob
Depends what your budget is for purchasing heads, it tales a lot of air flow to make a 421 or 434 happy, odds are a 400 or 406 would make just as much power as a 421 untill you get above the 220 range head. Vortec heads are perfect on a street 350 but would limit a healthy 400 with about 50-75 hp gain using 220 AFR heads. Went though all the hoops building a 434, grinding the block for clearance, pouring in some Hard Block, grinding rods for cam clearance, cam clearance limited cam lift even when using small base circle cam ect. (read the book how to build big inch small block chevys) The experience was worth it but my wallet can not afford the 245 AFR heads with shaft rocker arms that will flow 325+ cfm to support 434 cubes. Could have saved money because a 400 probably would make as much power or more as a 434 using the 220 off brand iron heads that I have. Norb
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