Projects 39 Standard Tudor build thread

Thanks @The 39 guy but that's just a generic lighter. I have several. I want all 4 knobs in the dash to match and be where they belong, hence wanting an OG lighter. The knob is a big thread, not a small stud like most lighters are postwar. You see that a lot, a later replacement stuck in. Won't do it. I'd even take a burnt one just for the housing. I'll never use it anyways. And I want to avoid a multiple hour project just for that purpose. And again, thanks...

 

Would this be the lighter knob that you are trying to find? Dennis Carpenter list a couple colors. I was looking for heater control knob and saw there was everything but opted for the heater switch assembly.
https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/cars/interior/dash/99a-15053-cigar-knob
https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/cars/interior/dash/91a-15053-cigar-knob

 

I have that, in fact I have the whole set of 4 for the ashtray, choke and throttle too. Note the threads how big they are. I may well end up with a stud in a modern lighter but have other buns in the oven rt now. Shit, I still have to clear the dash and moldings too.

 

So I didn't pay much attention to the 40 cpe trunk latch base vs the tudor. Figured I could just make it longer, job done. Uh-uh. The pocket for the latch is deeper, the bolt pattern different. Screws for the catch were NOT gonna come loose. I heated the shit out of em, and the threaded keeper below, stuffed em in the toilet to shock em cold. Came out like new. No pics, they're soaking in metal prep. So I measured and and cleaned and cut in order to move the latch pocket from the Tudor to the new 40 cpe latch base. I still have to add 4" to it but I still call it a box checked.
Note the bolt pattern, and the pocket is almost twice the size of the Tudor.

I did another exact cut exercise and welded the old to the new.

There was some additional fiddle-fuck to it but I didn't wanna bore y'all with that. Til next time...

 

Currently into the mundane aspect of welding, fitting, hammering, yadda yadda yadda. I'll take pics before the final tail panel goes on, and once done. Still have to mod the latch panel and I'll share the process and dimensions as I do it. Stay tuned...

 

"I'm ready for my close up Mr DeMille"

Ok anyways, I got all the tool box fab done. Stretched the trunk latch floor center 4", modded the body mount supports, and made up some hardware to hold a screw jack (thanks @lostmind ) and lug wrench. The jack will store under the trunk latch, the latch support welds to the tail panel seal channel.



A cpl weeks back I put some reduced POR in a spritzer bottle and made short easy work of coating the frame and underneath. Did a topic on it.




Next step is clean this real well and get some bedliner in it while it's easy. Also going to waterproof every possible area that needs it. Can't believe the openings they left OEM. Once done the tail panel will get welded and metal finished, get some black lacquer on it. Forging ahead. Til next time...

 

I assume that's a technical term?

 

Very much so. No worries, I'm a licensed fiddle-fucker...

 

Checked more boxes. Got the new tool box area coated in bedliner. Gonna be nice when it's all done. Sealed the joints with Ford strip caulk. I said I wanted waterproof as much as possible. Also laid a nice coat of POR-15 in the trunk weatherstrip trough, should give a good base to hold the glue when the new seal goes in. I used aerosol Krylon bedliner. Reasonable at about 9 bucks from Wally World, easy, 1 can did 2 nice wet coats. A little extra distance gives a decent texture.
When I get the car all polished up any remaining surface rust around the decklid will get stained in with black enamel just for camouflage and easy cleaning.
Next episode is the final install of the new tail panel. Pics below. Stay tuned for more...

 

Getting closer. The corners came out really good. No mud needed. Time to seal the new tail panel and weld in the trunk latch support. Getting there, also picked up some oak plywood to make new tool box covers. Have the OGs for patterns.

 

That looks great! Wish I'd have figured that method out when I did the tail pan on mine about 40 years ago...

 

Taking a break from rust repair now that the worst is over, getting after hanging the exhaust. I need to make a hanger of some kind before the bumper goes back in anyways. I shagged several OEM rubber capture style hangers from my garage services days. Fabricating rods to go through full surround hangers, so should be fairly silent in the car once done. I have ½ a dozen swivel style too, those will probably play more up toward the front where mobility is naturally less and lend support. So far, before actual welding, using ⅜ rod for hangers.
And don't give me any static fellas, they're genuine Ford parts

 

You must be getting pretty excited as it's really coming together...I know I sure am...they are as you said a pretty elegant looking body style...as close to a sloper we get in the late 30s around here...

 

So I took it all out of 1 side and did final slip fits and such before I weld hangers on, then I slipped it together outside the car. WTF was I thinking...
There's a small saving grace, all that can be seen is this:

Progress, but it sure didn't feel that complicated when I did it. Damn...

 

Still exhausting. So I already put up some hows n what is holding it all in place. Advancing forward (or to the back?) I whipped up a rear frame mount for a floating hanger at the tailpipe. The rear will share a bumper brace bolt which mounts at an angle. I took some ½" rod and welded to an appropriately angled bracket. Always best on this style to have a bit of extra diameter at the end of it, so to that end we did a heat n beat to mush it out at the tip then ground and brushed smooth so the isolator can't slide off without some effort.

Yes I duplicated the effort for the other side but will hold off welding and fitting just in case. Up front we decided to share a clamping area with a urethane rubber isolated frame mount. Whipped up a fairly simple bracket, added a small dart in the corner and had to give it a little twist to follow the frame angle. This should work well, hopefully I still reap isolation from exhaust harmonics but if not I can replace with a softer durometer rubber. I'll bolt it on with a nyloc to ensure it doesn't end up fully rigid. Not too bad, pretty simple looking, but the sizing and layout was pretty critical to locate the pipe without banging the frame anywhere. Looks
like this...



I might be able to change up a couple things and repeat that idea on the last one. Like I said, exhausting...

 

Looking for an easy box to check off and trying to fill in a little 39 time I thought I'd whip up a couple turn signal mounts. I have to pace between consuming type jobs and quickies. A few years back I shagged a couple amber rally lights with thick glass lenses. Even though they're newer they just look old and are single element bulbs.
So the snag was either mod the shells and get the wire thru the back or leave them out the stud as designed. No room inside, stud it is. I made a couple tops out of heavy sheet stock then made some coupling style threaded sleeves...with a hole in the side...and a stud locked in the bottom...and, well was more involved than I thought but already threaded the material. Easy, throw some turn signals on it. Right...


I'll detail the process when I finish and trim it all but they did end up where I wanted, looking the part too. At least I think so. Almost there...

 

They're nice, everything seems to be more work than we think.. An exhaust system that runs around everything and not just two straight pipes hanging down, is a lot of work, way more than I thought it would be as well, and no one sees it, but we know.....
This is gonna be a really nice car when youre done.