3rd Virtual Banger Meet: Manifold Fab.

To kick off this months installment I thought I would post the fabrication of my dual up-draft manifold I've had on file for ages.

The original idea was to run my banger on straight Methanol. I wanted a carb set-up that was quick and easy to convert and cheap because i didn't want alot of money tied up in something that may end up a disaster.
To cut a long story short it was a disaster and that was only on petrol, I never even made it to Methanol!

This is what I started with. I have three two foot lengths of 1 1/2" od tube. I had two lengths with a 90 degree bend put in them. I wanted a mandrel bend so it had a uniform shape through the turn but couldn't find anyone to do it. I settled for a bend from an exhaust shop which actually turned out to be an advantage in the end. Also have a two foot length of 2 x 1/2" flat bar for the flanges to the block and the carbs.
As can be seen I chose to convert stock Model 'A' up-drafts. At this stage I only had the one. I chose these because they were readily avaiable, as simple as you can get, single main jet for example, no accelerator circuit, no air bleeds, cast iron construction and I already had one in stock!



Hopefully the next stage picture is clear enough to understand.
I needed to know the postion of all the inlet holes and manifold stud positions. I took a piece of brown parcel paper and chalk and took a rubbing of the block along the ports. I then boxed all the circles and then crossed each box. This gave me the centre postion of each hole that had to be drilled. The flat bar was smeared with grease and the paper pattern stuck to it. I then centre punched each mark.



Heres the finished pieced. The large holes were drilled with a 1 1/2" hole saw.



The next picture jumps ahead in construction. The carb flanges have now been made using the carb gaskets for a template and then drawing squares around each hole to find its centre. The three lengths of tube have been cut to length. The straight section will be for the balance tube. The balance tube in the picture was actually re-made.



To actually connect the balance tube to the runners I again used a hole saw to create a hole in the side of the runners.



This is the first stage of welding. The runners are stood in the holes drilled into the flat bar and the magnets have been used to make sure the runners are square. Notice that the flange has been clamped to a hefty piece of angle to try and stop distortion. Also as much material as posible has been left on the flange.



The runners are now spotted in place and the balancer is also being spotted in place.



Now things get serious! This is the extremes we went too to stop the manifold from distorting. Everything is clamped in place and a weight has been place on top of the whole unit.



And the final product. everything was fully welded, the welds ground back to check for holes and re-welded.
I have at this stage now acquired the second carb.
The engine flanges have also been cut to size and finished.



Here is what it looked like on the car.......



......and the thread.

 

Very nice!! How does it run?

 

badly!

I rebuilt both the carbs, set-up the float valves balanced them etc etc and could never get them to run properly. They either run so lean it would stall or so rich that I had fuel pouring from the throats.

What hhas everyone else been up too?

Artiki has his quickie in. I'm sure he will show and tell.

 

looks cool. i am building a intake right now. i'm waiting on my header to any more work on it.i will let you know how it works?

 

i have thoght about useing a s&s hardley carb. a super B one or two? you can also get alky jet set-ups for them! i think they would work???

 

I took a metalshaping cl*** and built a custom grille shell for a Model A, which I posted pictures of on the HAMB. The cl*** was three (long) days, about 17 hours each day. So in five days, two eight hour flights and three 17 hour days,

 

my only 4 banger plans/thoughts for this month are my idea that im going to try to disguise my new car's V8 as a 4 banger....full hood and one exhaust pipe out the right side.....
you know...for street racing

these months are flying by...i wish i had more time...i vote for 30 hour days so i can devote a few of the extra ones to building my own car for myself with a proper motor in it...aka a "B/C"....im getting awfully bored with flathead V8's. they keep jumping down my throat with all the deal i keep getting offered...im gona have about 15 of them soon and only 2 4 bangers
this isnt a good balance in life

4ever4...do you think your problem is int he carbs or in the design of the manifold? i have been doing a little thinking about my supercharged idea and i want to make some sort of a log manifold with 2 carbs on it...but it may end up with just one #48 carb

keep up the good work
zach

 

I have nothing to contribute except that I did find a Model T frame locally through another HAMBster and if I can figure out how to sneak it home or keep my wife from killing me, I'm going to buy it.

I did post question about 'banger crossflow heads and their history if any of you would care to help me out with that tidbit. Also, I've decided I need to buy the Dean Batchelor book as it seems to be one of the few publications that covers the early gowjob type cars. I can't wait to read about the street race between Clark Gable's Packard and Bob(?) Estes' Model T.

Mainly I'm responding so I can keep track of this thread in my User CP.

 

Ya go the jump on me! looks great! I have almost nothing to report this month ...but that wont stop me from finding something to flap my trap about

 

Differently the carbs. I'm unsure wether to stick with the up-drafts or try with a pair of strombergs. The results would more noticable if it worked successfully.

There are still alot of crossflow heads avaiable today. You have the 4 port Riley, Ardun, chev/3-port olds conversion, the new Dan Price Cragar crossflow and I'm sure Norm Frick does aload as well.

Old ones include Morton-Brett, Morales, McDowell and properly many many more.

Wasn't the Cragar crossflow originally built by Bell Auto Parts? Which would have made it a late release date?

 

Just getting into this 4 banger stuff. Found a deal locally and looking for your opinions. Guy says it is a complete 1920 Model T ch***is with complete running gear, steering, exhaust, everything except the body. Was a running car. Only issue is that it is now completly dis***embled. Was the only way he could store it inside. Has cool looking wood spoke wheels and complete T engine. He is asking $1000, but the way he talks, i'm guessing he really wants the space in his garage back and would take less. Is this a good buy? I've been mainly looking at Model A & B engines and watching prices on those. What's everyone think on this?
Mike

 

Yep, got my quickie installed this month.
There were a few problems with the build-up and a few more with the installation, but I guess if it was meant to be easy, everybody would be doing it. Not sure I'd do another one.

Ready to go in....


Just after my first blast around the block....


I've got it running with 3.48's at the moment which feel great on the road. Theoretically, 3000rpm is almost 80mph with 31" tyres. I don't quite think I was going that fast, but I p***ed everything on the local dual carriageway and it was pulling like a train. Flipping the 3.48's over will give me 4.11's, which I think will be too low for the current set-up, so Winter's will be getting a call later this month

 

i was motoring down the carriage way sippin on gin and juice...

looks great! how does it handle when you get scootin over 70?

 

It feels like it needs to come down out of the wind a bit the coupe has stock height roof and suspension, and it's still on the rod brakes as well so you're always concious of that. Great fun, though.

 

I'm dying, my A's been down for three weeks. Ran into a roadblock with the fan mounting on the V8 pump, but almost have it licked. The weather's been ****py this week so no big loss.
Bro got an A sedan as well, so will even get a few donor parts for my coupe, like the driver side gl***.
The Stromberg has also been on hold due to the water pump, don't wanna put everything on at once, and then if it don't work I won't know where to start tuning

 

i have been debating whether or not to run a full hood or build some crazy exhaust like these

 

On a Banger?

That would look pretty mad.

 

Have you changed the gears yet?

Whats the procedure and time factor?

 

I've not changed the gears over yet, but it's only a 10-15 minute job. You pull that rear plate off - draining the oil in the process - and then either change or swap over the two drop gears. Put the plate back on and refill the rear part with EP 90 and you're away.

 

man...awesome stuff this time. not much to report here.just ac***ulating parts to do my SWAP.got the rear out last night at 12am.much to the dismay of my neighbors...got my open drive bits from the hot rod works, the parts look like jewelry,and fit together nicely.gonna have a machine shop break down the rear end..the driveshaft seems to not want to cooperate..

 

What problems are you having with the driveshaft? It should come out in one piece with the pinion still attached once you've undone the two big nuts. You have to remove the left hand axle end, pull out the axles and carrier ***embly and then the driveshaft will pull through the left hand side of the banjo.

 

i went ahead and did it myself...i've got it out,but the darn driveshaft does'nt want to come out of the pinion thingy .i got the nut behind the pinion off,and tried beating it out,but i think i need a puller of some kind.i'm replacing the driveshaft with a pinion shaft to make the thing open drive...aw nuts i'm tired...

 

You may need a puller, as you say.
I found a piece of thick-wall tube that I could p*** the driveshaft through that ****ed up against the bottom edge of the pinion, I then put the tube in a vice. Loosen the lock-nut in front of the pinion but leave it on so not to bash the thread, then smack the end of the shaft using a piece of aluminium as a block between the shaft and the hammer. Three hits and mine was loose.

 

Okay, I did it. I bought a Model T frame. It's the stock frame that was under Charlie Chops 1940's '24 when he got it.

Next step will be kicking up the rear crossmember. Probably gonna fabricate something like below - maybe from plate steel? Either that or I'll be exploring the rear bumper bracket idea that was mentioned in another thread. I'm doubtful, however, as Toyota pickups in Michigan tend to get used hard and the salt eats everything.

 

Just bought a reverse eye spring for my T and some other bits from Bill at Antique T motorsports- good quality.
Those brackets are a reproduction of some old Laurel parts I think - cast in steel - run out at about $80, but the shipping across the pond would be a killer!

 

Boy, oh boy. These do look nice. I'm sure I can build something like this, though. Don't you think?

Strange that they seem to bolt to the framerail yet must be welded to the crossmember.

 

I'm very late, and nothing to report, just wanna check in, Been off line for a long time,

No banger progress for me, Not for another 2 months till I get down south and see it.....

Outback

 

How does it run?

After I build my exhaust header I will make an intake manifold and use the worlds best carburetors--the S.U.!

 

excellent!!! we will want to see how they look!

(i am sorry guys, i have been so busy with work that my head is still so far up my *** i can see what i ate for dinner two nights ago.) keep up the bangin', hopefully i will post something worth while soon...

 

still doing the granny flat thing = did not find anything good at big three = hoping to find some stuff at goodguys this month at del mar=rpu on hold
ken