Hi Guy's, Been looking over the 4 banger that came with the Sport coupe that I got. The engine turned over by hand no problem so I thought I would take the head off to see how bad it was inside. What a job!!! Anyway got the head off and the bores look pretty clean other then some scratches in one of the cylinders and a family of brown recluses in another.(dead) So 4 Banger guy,s, what do you think? Should I build it? I know it won't be big horse power but I think it will be fun. The pistons are standard according to the stampings in the top and each valve still has the ford script so I don't think its ever been apart. Haven't taken the pan off yet but it still has plenty of oil in it. The carb will need a rebuild and the water pump was seized. Will need some help with it as I'm use to playing with small blocks. Alex
Let a good machinist check it out for you . Doesn't look that bad at all ! I have seen a lot worst turn out OK . It's nice to see something different than the same ol , same ol all the time ! That 4 banger sure would make a really nice Old Skool Hot Rod !
They can usually be bored up to .125 so go for it. Lots of these engines have been rebored 3 or 4 times. That engine would probably run fine as is, see if it still has shims in the rod bearings and if they seem loose take out a shim or two.
Look for cracks between the valves and the cylinder bore - especially on 2 and 3. You can spot these by cleaning those areas up with a scotchbrite or wire wheel. Also look for cracks anywhere a bolt goes into the block. From what I understand, its the cracks that kill, not the bore. There's two really good builders in TX - Piriano and Ron Kelly. Neither one are cheap, but they will both treat you right.
Definitely rebuildable..... it can be bored up to, i know this far.... (.140) as I have done it. But just hone it enough to clean it up, might want to find you a high compression police head for it, that would help alot with the heat and burning unleaded gas. Get you a leakless water pump for it. Sould do just fine.
Thanks for the information, I've checked it for cracks and can't see any. One of the valves on #4 cylinder won't close fully unless you push on it so might be weak spring. I'll know more tomorrow when I take the pan and valve covers off.
The real deciding factor for me would be the number stamped on the block. It should (1) match the one stamped on the frame meaning it was the original engine for your car, and (2) match the number on your ***le, bill of sale, registration or whatever identifies your ownership of the car. Of course, this is not important to a lot of folks ... (excluding the DMV) Would like to be there to see the babbit when you open up the bottom end. If it still has factory babbit, it's interesting to see.
Well I finished taking it apart yesterday. Looks like its been rebuilt in the past, the crank was stamped 20/20. Not much sludge in the valve spring area. The oil pan had a load but I think that was because the oil filler cap was missing. Looked like a lot of west Texas mud. Have a load of degreaser in the oil pan at the moment. Does anyone know if the baffle in the pan comes out at all or is it one ***mebly with the pan? Thanks, Alex
The baffle comes out of the pan. It snaps into indentions in the pan along the sides of the baffle. Slam the pan top down fairly hard on to a piece of cardboard on the drive or other hard surface. The baffle should drop out.
A standard bore that doesn't look worn is unusual...does the block have a serial number? If so, what is it, with a digit or two desguised of course? I'm wondering if it might be a replacement block or a lightly used industrial.
You could also take a screwdriver and pry one side loose taking care not to bend the side. Take your time and it will come out nicely and you won't have to bang **** out in your driveway. If it does bend it goes right back very easily and you want it fitting tight in the pan when you put it back in with no slop. Gasoline works great for cleaning up everything that has sludge or oil caked on also btw and is alot cheaper then degreaser. Paint brush and a drip pan underneath everything you brush clean with the gas.-Weeks
check the bottom of the water jacket for cracks, put in oversize valves and a mild cam and it will be lots of fun, maybe a weber and cast iron header. and balance it. enjoy.
Yes. However, they do exist. My old tudor still had its standard bore and unturned crank with factory babbitt. Many keen Model A'ers eyes agreed with its low mileage. I sold it to a close friend who also owns a well-know 15,000 mile (at the time he bought it) coupe which was a cover car for one of the national 'A' magazines. My old tudor gave up a head gasket on my friend's 3rd cross-country trip to a national 'A' meet. The leak was not discovered until some cylinder wall corrosion damage occurred. Otherwise it would still be humming along on it's standard bore.
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