We used splayed 4 bolt caps on my 392 Hemi just recently, I would recommend that and a line bore ........I would line bore it anyways, even if I was going to run the 2 bolt main......Because I like to know that everything has been trued up with the block I plan on spanking hard.......I also know such a fellow as you speak of, with lots of success and history and he is the same guy that has taught me, just because they did it this set way back then does not make it the best way or the right way. Sometimes people have a hard time embracing racings evolution..a good stong lower half should be girdled depending on what your trying to accomplish....But if he is going to build it you almost have to let him do his thing.......You will have fun no matter what you do!!!....Hell I know someone that was running a stock big block, had it in a front engine digger.. Had a good windmill up top and killer fuel system and a cam. The rest was an a actual junk yard engine. He made a p*** a handful of years ago at Goodguys in Indy....went 199 mph, put a hole in two of his stock **** pistons..Then tig welded the holes shut off the Indy grounds and went 199 the next morning....I counted 14 cracks in the one head alone in between tear downs........I pointed it out to him........his response was...we will just add more nitro. That experience taught me you did not have to have the best to go fast....it just does not last as long...to the horse power god their all weak to him.....I just try to put the money spent in the right place, but your really only playing chess or on borrowed time, if you understand that...its racing.........Goodluck with your build and post some pics as you go....Littleman.............I like to build them with the intent of surviveability and then try to kill them...I forgot to add have been known to be way off base before........
Thanks littleman, ive never posted pics but i'll do with this project and we will see if it holds together.
The big block chevy has very thick main webs compared to most blocks, it can handle a LOT of power without a girdle. For most engines...you're right, a girdle will help keep things in place.
I have made 650 plus on a two bolt before, and evrytime that thing would fire we put it to the wood. That perticular application was in a jet boat that i never gave a break, it all depends on set up. Make sure you line bore, double check all your clearence, and run good studs. I f you do things right it should be ok.
They run 600+ hp alky feed 8500 rpm sprint cars on 2 bolt blocks all the time. If you are going with anything other than natural aspirated I would go with a 4 bolt
Unless you are going for extreme horsepower, 4 bolt mains and Ford 9 inch rears are more about ***** size bragging than anything else.
It's your pooch you can screw it any way ya wanna,but I woudn't even consider 2 bolts for a compe***ion wheezer set up. That's madness and goes under the heading of "No Brains, No Pain". You owe the safety of the guy in the other lane a little consideration too, 'cause when **** goes bad you don't know where it's gonna wind up. The extra $700 or so to splay cap a 2 bolt block for a wheezer is money well spent.
Naturally-aspirated, up to 650 horsepower: two-bolt mains. Blown alcohol: two-bolt block with splayed four-bolt caps. Dave http://www.roadsters.com/
I can't believe no one mentioned the balance of the rotating ***embly! The biggest killer of blocks and cranks is the wide tolerances used in the stock ***embly. Best money spent inside the block is on a quality balance job. I read one shop claiming reliable 500 up in small block fords on stock crank and block with the right balance. I'd put much more faith in a BBC.
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