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4-link????

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by coonster, Feb 2, 2014.

  1. coonster
    Joined: Mar 21, 2012
    Posts: 36

    coonster
    Member
    from nw

    hay guys which one is better Triangle or a Parallel 4-Link System? I am working on a 1953 ford mainline and like to put the 4-link and bags under it. I like the triangle one it looks better to me.
     
  2. 1934coupe
    Joined: Feb 22, 2007
    Posts: 5,259

    1934coupe
    Member

    As I understand it and by judging from some of the late 60s GM cars the triangulated 4 link or even 3 link is better for the street and locates the rear end better or without a watts link/panhard bar in normally would have fixed or non adjustable ends. Parralel 4 link has unlimited adjustability, needs a sway bar/panhard bar/watts link and is more desirable for the track. I'm sure there are many people that will chime in here with their opinion. I would go triangulated with bags.

    Pat
     
  3. luckystiff
    Joined: Mar 20, 2002
    Posts: 1,465

    luckystiff
    Member

    both have their benefits and place....

    more folks will say tri-angulated for street and parallel for the track.

    in some case a parallel will save from more cutting/fabrication on floors and such but depending on your intent both can be done without enough difference in time invest to worry about. as said above tri "locates" the rear ***embly more by nature but a parallel with panhard or watts link does an excellent job of that also....
     
  4. NEW2MALIBU
    Joined: Mar 6, 2012
    Posts: 22

    NEW2MALIBU
    Member
    from Idaho

    Not much input to add, but I can tell you this. My buddy just got off the phone with Art Morrison tech this week. We were going to do a triangulated 4 bar on his 56' Chevy. The tech explained in depth that the tri 4 bar needs to be installed perfectly in order to work properly with no binding issues and they have approximately a 90 to 95 percent call back due improper installs. He strongly recommended against it for an install with the body on the frame. He basically said it is best installed while the frame is on a jig, in order to get the angles just right. He said of a 1/2 degree in one direction or the other will create problems. None the less he convinced my buddy to go with the Parallel 4 Bar instead. He said it was much more forgiving on the install and easily adjustable. Another bonus is it is less expensive.

    My buddy's 56'. We are going to an 8 point bar, mini tub, rear suspension, disc brakes, rims and tires.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Roadsir
    Joined: Jun 3, 2006
    Posts: 4,045

    Roadsir
    Member

    For a bagged 50's car, have you considered a truck arm style rear suspension? Easy to adapt to bags, may save some floor clearancing work and overall easier install.
     
  6. duke460
    Joined: Jan 7, 2009
    Posts: 192

    duke460
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    I am on my second triangular 4 link, a 65 cobra and my 47 Plymouth. With bags I ***ume you will have more than one ride height. I feel it is move forgiving. Best thing is it locates the tires very tight. Both cars have less than 1/2" tire to body clearance and even under hard cornering will not rub. Biggest issue is cutting up clearance in the floor boards
     
  7. bako48
    Joined: Apr 2, 2013
    Posts: 150

    bako48
    Member

    I actually did a two link with a track bar I didn't have to cut my floor out except were my notch goes thru the floor. All the bracketry is done with out cutting the under seat area. It simple and I drive it every day. I can take better pix if you need em

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     

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  8. luckystiff
    Joined: Mar 20, 2002
    Posts: 1,465

    luckystiff
    Member

    yeah truck arm set up is also great for 50s cars. the local roundy round parts shop nearly made me sick a few weeks ago when he confirmed that about a year ago he took about 30 sets to the s****yard because he kept tripping over them in the floor. theres a place out of mooresville on ebay that sells sets for a coupla hundred bucks,
     
  9. 40haywagon
    Joined: Feb 3, 2014
    Posts: 7

    40haywagon
    Member
    from Albany NY

    I went triangulated in my 40 chevy truck its not that hard to set up. Take the box off and get the frame level on floor jacks, biggest thing is to measure like 30 times just to make sure ahah.... call welder series they make a nice kit and it has some adjustment thats what I used, although I ended up putting on coilovers instead of shockwaves.
     

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  10. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,279

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    Here's a 42 Chevy PU I'm doing for a friend. I stepped up rear and added a 46 Olds X-member using OEM trailing arm setup. Work in progress.
     

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  11. captmullette
    Joined: Oct 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,929

    captmullette
    Member

    nice, gonna race it??
     
  12. callsign*cleaner*
    Joined: Feb 5, 2014
    Posts: 2

    callsign*cleaner*
    Member

    Thanks for the complement Mullette I do plan on racing it. Need to work out a few issues first. Bar, mini tub,brakes and 4 link. I raced it back in 97,98 and 99 and then it sat for a few years (with a new baby in the house priorities change). Just now getting excited and financially able to work on it again. If you race you know fast is never fast enough so I thought I would get the ch***is and safety issues set up to put more ponies under the hood when I want.
     

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