Just picked up a 40 Ford deluxe coupe with a 59B flathead, 39 trans and stock rear. The car is in great shape and the body has been off years ago, so the chassis is clean and painted. I would like to replace the 39 trans with a T5. I know that means going to an open drive line and splitting the bones I've done this on my 37. My question is has anyone out there taken out the center cross member on a 35-40 frame with the body still on the frame? This thing is put together so nice that I would hate to have to get that far into a tear down just to replace the trans. Any advice?
A friend of mine removed the center X-member from his 40 Ford with the body still on the car. It was very difficult as the rivets are hard to get to and swedged in place. Maybe it would be easier if you have access to a plasma cutter , but make sure the frame doesn't "pull in" on itself after you remove the X member. It's one of those things that you have to finish doing once you start. Tools needed include a right angle drill.
I don't know why you should want to remove the center crossmember to install a t5??? I think that you would want to just modify the center section on the bottom to accomodate a new mount for the t5. You can use a CE wishbone splitting kit, install an open drive kit, a torque arm and a driveshaft and it should be good to go. There are some threads on the H.A.M.B. where t5's have been installed in early Ford crossmembers with minimum modifications... Someone is now modifying a Jeep t5 so you can keep your closed driveshaft...
Im going to assume that you are referring to removing the center drive shaft support on the 40 frame. I removed mine with the body on. It was a pain but it did come out in several pieces.
Removing the "X" member on a '40 is a bad idea, unles you are planning to replace it with a tubular cross member. As mentioned above, Chassis Engineering has the complete kit to split the wishbones and mount a T5.
The above mentioned kit was easy to put in and you can use bolts rather than welding it. It splits the wish bones and keeps them centerd and doesn't mess with the steering geometry. I got one for a 350 and it looks like a 2004R or a 700R4 would also fit I'm not so sure the TH400 would fit as it is bigger.Good luck with your project. Al
I have a 40 with a T5, French block flattie, and it's been on the road 6+ years now. For your FE it depends on how you want to build it. For me, I've been down the split wishbone route and it does not make it all thaqt easy to drop the tranny from underneath. I used the Speedway 4-bar kit w/panhard bar, 32 axle, DB kit. For the frame, I left the "X" in tact but removed the center portion, then fashioned a replacement top and bottom tranny mount in simple hotrod fashion. I used the stock 3-speed tranny mount (I removed it without butchering it) and used it on the back portion of the "X" for rigidity and as a driveshaft loop or support so it would not drop in case it ever came out of the T5. This setup has allowed me to remove the tranny from underneath many times easily for changes and upgrades. I'm using an 8" rear out back using a CE kit w/3:50 gears - in retrospect I wish I had kept the buggy spring and perhaps used teh Hot Rod works setup for the banjo rear w/Ford 9" ends. At the time I built the rear portion out of what I had used many times - the flattie, 5-speed, and the FE were enough of an experiment for me at the time. Others have done it differently, better perhaps - I chose this way for ease of service. I have driven this car up and down the east coast, through NYC out to LI, over all of the roughest roads you can imagine, and at speeds 75-80 mph, no problems - a proven setup. You cannot believe how that T5 wakes up that flattie and is a blast to drive. I presently have a 40 p-up going together in the same manner - PM me and I'll send you a link to some build pics. Whatever build route you take, you will love it - I was just in it tonight in just great weather adn I loved every second behind the wheel ....
Thanks for all the info, but just to be clear I'm just talking about the center section not the X member. My plan is to remove it by drilling or chiseling out the rivets (no butchery) I just don't know if it's possable with the body still on the frame. I know once I start there's no giving up, I'm going to have to see it through even if I have to remove the body. When I removed the center section on my 37 slant I had the body off and it didn't come out easy but I did get it out neat and in one piece. The 40 doesn't have to come out in one piece but I do want to do it neat.
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