hello, I was wondering if any of you guys have changed out to longer studs on a 40 ford front hub, mine has that round piece of plate that lays against the face of the hub that the studs go through, some one told me that the studs were swedged did not know what they meant. please help
Not sure if it helps but I did a little write up on my front wheel studs. Post #226 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=765448&page=12 Aaron Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
if it has a plate, they are later drums, not 40. (not that is matters) I have two 1940 drums, drilled to Chev bolt pattern.. $150.00 plus the ride.
Your hubs are 42-48 with the plate which shows and the drum mounts behind it. The 40-41 hubs have the drum mounted from the outside like modern cars. Swedged studs means the drum is held to the hub BY the stud which has had the shoulder "mashed" out over the drum to hold it tightly in place. When you remove the studs, if by hammer only with support pipe beneath the hub plate, the swedged material is clipped off and the stud is unusable. Longer stud can be used but must be welded in place as no one has made a stud which has a splined shoulder to hold it in place as modern studs are.
thank you very much guys now I really know what I have and dealing with. do people normaly drive them out and weld new ones in or is there a better way around it but still staying more on the traditional side, I want to run my aluminum wheels and I don't think I have enough stud showing
You can replace old worn or stripped studs with new correct design studs or if you need longer studs you can use late model spline lock studs but you must ream stud bore holes out on the hubs to a larger size to accommodate the new larger bore shank on the replacement studs. In any case you should not hammer or press out the stock studs as explained before this will mess up the hub stud bore or crack the flange. The easiest way to remove the swedge from old ford studs I have found is by using a 5/8 core drill saw. Remove the pilot drill and place the core saw over the studs and just kiss the drum/stud junction with the saw to cut a depth of about 1/16" and the studs can be tapped with a hammer and they fall right out. If you need longer studs go to the auto parts store and go thru the stud book to see what comes closest in fit.
Thank all of you for your input, I ended up drilling the flanges off the back of the studs, and then drove them out the front. replaced with longer studs that were splined. man this H.A.M.B. is great.
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