I have been chipping away at the project on multiple fronts. I need to get everything installed up under the dash of the truck sooner rather than later. First was the cowl vent - I started searching for the needed pieces and I ended up missing just one piece - the link between the entire mechanism and the vent itself. Nothing of this unit is reproduced so I started searching local sources and then put some feelers out on Fordbarn. Fortunately one of the guys had a unit he was willing to sell and it’s coming to me now. Second item was wipers. Now if this was going to be my truck, I would go with the small, VW type units to fill the holes, use RainX and call it a day. But, this truck is for the wife. Did some research, and checked with some guys that have 40-47 trucks (HamtownAl being one of them), and decided on Newport Engineering. I had nothing from any of the trucks I stripped years ago, the reviews were good, and it is the only game in town specifically for 40-47 Ford trucks. It.’s also on its way. Today I picked up the nutserts I had ordered so it was time to revisit the tranny cover. I first installed 10x24 bolts and nuts to reference the holes for the nutserts and to know what the actual shape is of the perimeter. I measured and cut the original hump pieces out so they both integrated well together in their new config, scribed some lines as a reference, and removed everything. I installed the nutserts, snugged the perimeter down, and started tacking the piece around the shifter, then on to the upper piece .... I used the very heavy Flathead starter to keep the first piece in place while it got tacked down. I have to say I was very pleased with my welding (well, tacking) - maybe I am finally getting it?!?! I am very happy with the results and only had to add a small piece to the upper right corner. I then nutserted the floor plate I made in the pedal area and drilled two of the holes to bolt down the column anchor and called it a day. It was a good day in the shop for me today .......
Before finishing anything more regarding the cowl mech, I ordered a Newport Engineering’s wiper system specifically for 40-47 Ford Pickup cabs. You really need to have nothing in the way to do this install and now is the perfect time. They send you a jig to locate the holes and I spent yesterday laying things out and cut one hole ..... So the install of the system is fairly straightforward with the cowl holes your biggest issue. They send you a jig to set it up and it falls right on top of the stock holes which is good. The jig makes you mark, drill, scribe the hole size, cut the holes then file them to the right size. After that you test fit the unit and make hole adjustments then - cumbersome to use the unit. Just so happens 1/2” copper tubing slips into the backside portion of the bezel and made hole sizing a whole lot better. After I used that I only required a small amount of filing and it was in ..... Btw, I used one of those cone shaped step drills to enlarge the hole one size too small, then filed the rest of what was needed using my little copper pipe trick.... The support bracket uses one of the cowl vent mech holes so I will do that tomorrow ....... I know this is not traditional but my wife is going to drive this truck and I need to make it as close to the feel of her daily as I can ..... like I have said, happy wife, happy life .... I am having too much fun ......
Of course, nothing ever goes smoothly - I am using the new Classic Instruments gauge panel - the wife really liked it so what’s a guy to do? - and it is deep. The end of the wiper motor sticks too far into the gauge panel area to install it from the backside with the wiper installed. So, I had to partially dismantle the wiper system to install it and make up some hold downs. It is a nice looking unit and she wanted the stock 40 looking colors and traditionally styled rather than the other color combos and looks ...... sorry for the lousy pic .... The cowl vent mechanism is in - just not the cowl vent or gasket. Next on the list .... The wiper bracket was a pain to get it in but I finally got it. The angled arm on the left is part of the pass wiper that I had to separate to install.....
Awesome thread to follow as I am doing a lot for the same stuff right now on my 41. Thanks! How far back from the center of the dash panel does that Newport wiper motor sit?
From m the backside of the gauge “box” to where it protrudes from the dash is 2”. The wiper motor itself goes back another inch or so. The pic above shows the vertical bar support for the cowl vent handle - the motor does not go more than an inch closer to the firewall ......
So I haven’t posted in awhile as the wife and I took off for about a week then house projects took over. I did work on the truck but more of planning how things were going to go in so nothing really newsworthy or “interesting” to post about. However the last 4 days or so I have been at it and it’s been on various items such as ..... I installed the stock 40 pickup defroster ducts and realized that before I could finalize my heater location, I needed to get the glove box as the defroster duct there sits right on top of it. While waiting for that I pulled apart the 92-93 Suburban overhead console to upholster it to match the interior and determine what 3 controls will be located in it using the console pieces as they are. That opened up a whole host of questions/issues/ideas that I had to work out. I have a separate heater fan speed and AC fan speed knobs, ac temp control, vacuum operated defroster duct switch, and heater temp control. So, for heat temp control the unit has a vacuum operated valve in the heater hose line that’s either wide open or closed. In a pickup cab that small area would get hot quick that way. So I will remove that valve for a manual one so it can be controlled. The heater fan speed switch will be the left opening in the overhead console, the center will have a toggle switch to activate the vacuum defrost duct, and the right most location, the AC fan control. Btw, my ac will be under the seat and ducted somewhere at the floor as well as my fuse box for ease of access. I have a Rebel wiring kit with extra long wires which will loop over both doors. Yes, they will need to be extended still to make it. For the three switches in the console I hope to make a stick on to indicate what switch does what, and illuminate the controls with some led lights for a license plate - we will see how that works out .... As for the dash, it has 4 holes - one to the left of the column, and three to the right in the center of the dash (I do not like adding holes in the face of a stock dash, save for ones underneath the dash and out of sight), and I have a wiper switch (now located in that left most hole - not used too often, you have to reach around the steering wheel to access it), lights, manual cable heater temp control, ac temp control, starter switch, an accessory plug, and some additional 2-3 toggle switches for a fog light among other things. For the center three holes, the heater control cable will be in the center, ac temp control to the right, and the left one I am not sure. I have lights, starter switch, and accessory plug left - the accessory plug I will install under the dash and I am leaning towards the starter switch underneath as well ( since both are infrequent use while driving) somewhere to the right of the column and the lights (a 4 position unit incorporating high beams - no floor button) in the hole to the right of the column as this may require more usage while driving with high beam on-off control and is the easiest knob to get to. Seems all logical now but it took a while to get it to where I and the wife like it. I installed the stock park brake handle and it’s cable, finished bolting down the column mount, I will use 40 car door pin curved arm chrome side view mirrors - yes the car and truck differ in hinge size but I will use some brake line to “fill the gap” on the bottom side - pics to come. I have started on a gas pedal location and type, and how to mount the console on the ceiling of the truck. I have done this once before using specially sized/located oak blocks liquid nailed to the ceiling with the console screwed to the wood. I have also started prepping my running boards for Rustoleum bed liner - the Linex stuff looks great but it might be too thick. Since this project has been on hold for at least 2 years, I have gone through everything that I have collected, bought new, or at swap meets, categorized it, and I now know what I have (and realized now many duplicates there are - lol!). So despite not having posted, I have been busy and I am “trucking” right along again ..
Love your build makes me want to get my 40 sedan delivery going. Thanks for letting us tag along. Frank
If you have a buddy with a sticker app and printer paper he could make an overlay for the panel or just sand, paint and hand letter.
A print shop is going to make up a sticker like sheet in close to the same color and I will get hand lettered (or pinstriped) as you say.....
Thank you for your suggestion - I will check out other options if my present path does not pan out .....
Been a while since my last post - life just took over as I am sure it has for others with what all we are dealing with. But this means more time in the garage now to take my mind off of things. Since I really cannot go anywhere I am limited to only what I can scrounge up in the garage. I worked on wiring up the overhead console and realized the amount of wires is way too much to go out the front so I the wires will come out the back. The console really needs to be installed before the seat mountAgain, working with what I have, I am also making a back section to the console where the wires will go to the back roof line. I will get some pics of what I am making up tomorrow. I have not put the new face to the gauge area just yet but I am gluing the blocks to hang the console from .... While waiting for the glue to dry I started working on the seat mount. I am using the third seat out out of a Suburban which has those hooks you latch the seat into. Sorry nice nice the seat will be fixed, I decided to use the seat latch mechanism so I can access under the seat where my fuse box and AC will reside. This seat also folds in half and makes it easy to tilt it up and out of the way. I need a solid foundation for the seat mount and had some 3/16” plate that I was able to cut two correctly sized pieces from to start with .... There are a couple of rear cab to frame bolts I can catch and the two “hat channels” under the bed will have steel placed under and in these channels and then somehow they will connect with the frame for strength. The stands for the latch mechanism was another story. They need to be strong and having plenty of support/welding points. Poking around in what I have there was a piece of freshly bent frame rail left over from the 32 project. Thinking about it, if I angle cut them on their flat face I would have two sides of each stand. I need 4 sets and there was just enough for my plan ..... The latches need 1/2” bar and after finding a couple bolts with smooth shanks, I drilled the front two stands ..... The next step is to tie the two front stands together, position them right, tack stuff in place, and trial fit the seat to check out the right height/location for the rear stands. I am happy with things so far ..... just chipping away at it ..... and I am, so far, finding what I need in my garage .....
Continuing on the seat install, I set up the front seat mounts and verified they are correctly measured ... Once together via the 1/2” square bar, I adjusted it in the truck to where I think it should be ... I cut the last two stands for the back seat mounts and c-clamped them to another square rod. With that done I tacked the front square rod to the two mount plates and made straps to the floor at the back of the cab and tacked then in to tie the plates to the floor temporarily keeping everything square and not moving ..... Here is what it looks like at the moment .... Still more to do but I am trying to see how “strong” the wife feels today to help me get the seat in the truck for a trial fit in the truck. Want to test the seat angle and if it will stand up once folded and stay standing with the steering wheel in place.... More to do but working out pretty good s far .....
I like your seat stand four legged idea. Thats slick ! Im sorta in the same boat in that I need a seat from "somthing" to fit .I have a 39 Ford picup ,but it used to be a big truck. I have the old fuel tank to hobknob with . My seat riser and my cab floor ,is my tank..Thanks for the photos and keep up the great work Tom !
Tried the seat - too high. So out everything came and we start again. Tomorrow will tell them tale I hope ... Promised a pic of the upper console extension .... The back portion will sit on the roof lip and there will be holes left and right for the wires to snake through ... Final trimming will be when the back mount block is in. The back block will have the other pieces attached - pretty Babylon run a finishing nail and glue to hold them together ....
Thank you - I really appreciate that. I am enjoying the build and my wife is super excited about it as well. She’s always telling me to get in the garage!
Worked on the seat mounts - shortened and strengthened them ...... hope to try again tomorrow ..... I still have done cleanup to do but will wait until I have it right before for hush welding. The 1x2 thin wall tubing was a great addition ...... it took all day (well, half a day actually) but I am again happy with the results .....
Got the seat stands set - wifey helped me out getting it in and out. I need to trim so me of the front seat bracket so the seat will stand. It might need a prop rod but that’s no biggie .... She will need a cushion to push her forward a bit so she is closer to the steering wheel but other than that she is happy .... Now off to trim the seat and the rear brackets need a slight trim so they set just right......
Working on the rear mounts and I believe I have it ready to weld up but I will wait until tomorrow morning to check everything one more time when I am fresh ....
Double checked everything and put a few more tack welds in, then dropped the seat it - success! So the seat tilde up just enough to almost stand in its own. I will need a prop to make it secure when working underneath. This shows the stands and once trimmed the board where the ac box will reside. Fuse panel will be driver side for ease if access. I am pumped this worked out so well - now to remove the plates, finish weld, clean up sharp corners, paint and install them permanently.....
Been working on cleaning up an finish welding the seat mount. I am satisfied with it - just need frame support for the forward bolts - that’s all that’s left to do and that will be tomorrow.... The notches in the ac mount board are for the two drain ports on the unit ..... ......
The Jalopy Journal
