I got the driver door latch in - nice unit and everything looks fairly new including the springs so that’s good. But, I will have to remove the window riser to get the door latch out and the new one in. This will take some figuring out as I would like to keep the window in place. It’s always something isn’t it?!?!?
Yes it is Tom. I don't know if you can get that latch out with the window in the door but I know someone who does know. When there's something weird, and it don't look good, who ya gonna call? @40FORDPU
I will reach out to him - thank you! I just realized that you are probably talking about Kube on the FB - yep he wrote the book - literally - on 40 fords and he was the first one I contacted. I an thinking (dangerous) that I can remove the window roll up mechanism, leave the glass in place once discoed from the glass and hold the glass up. I can then put in the new door latch and then the window riser mech. In my head it seems doable - we shall see!
Unscrew the window crank mechanism, (scissor action) lower it down, put the window crank handle back on so you can rotate the arms with the rollers to a point where you can slide the glass with its channel off the mechanism (rollers). At this point you can remove the window crank mechanism entirely, or let it rest at the bottom of the door. You then can move by hand the glass up to the rolled up position in the door, taping it up or bracing it up with a stick. I, if at that point would just angle the glass out of the door and place it out of the way.
Thank you for this - once I am to the point of bracing the window in the rolled up position, Gabby here on the hamb has a pair of windshield suction cups I can use I will put them in place to keep the window from sliding down ….
I recently had to change out the motors on my Olds windows. I have a bunch of these clamps with rubber jaws. They hold the glass just fine.
Hi Tom, When I was wrestling with my Tudor’s glass I did the same thing. 1. Raise glass high enough to locate and pop out rollers from glass bottom frame. 2. Raise glass by hand to highest closed position. 3. Secure glass. I used several pieces of tape with a lot of glass contact, up and over the door frame and down the other side of the glass. A couple of tapered shims like a hammer or axe handle wedge wrapped in duct tape stuck between the glass and weatherstrip fuzzy will also work. Or a thin rubber wedge will work also. 4. Remove winder (not to be confused with window) mechanism. That’s the way we hillbilly’s talk. 5. Replace door latch 6. Reassemble winder (not window) and glass. Being that you’re an experienced kind of guy: 30 minutes Go.
Just an update - the truck has been running great, door glass went in smoothly finally, but the power steering setup and transmission lines have been giving me fits. I have been towed home more times by this truck than all my other cars combined. Right now the truck is over at Koppy’s shop here on the HAMB. Hopefully we will have figured out all the gremlins finally so I can get my wife behind the wheel - I don’t think she’s driven it more than 1/2 hour total and with it being towed home so many times she’s a bit nervous to drive it. But hopefully this is the last of these problems. Hey - that’s hot rodding and I totally get it. My wife does not understand why I will not give up on this truck. But if it does have another steering issue, a manual box will go in it. I will tell you one thing - should I ever build another car it will be pure hotrod with 3 pedals! Age (soon to be 76) be damned! Lol!
I view Hot Rods as a "Love/Hate" relationship...if the love didn't win out most of the time, I'd of gotten out of this hobby years ago.
Tom, Sorry to hear you are having "The New Build Blues". That is a real pain in the backside! I hope you and Koppy get things worked out real soon. I know what you mean about the three pedals, too. I'm 77 and I still prefer them that way.
The Jalopy Journal
