Projects `40 pickup clutch setup

Puttin a sbc with a munsie 4 speed in a `40 ford pickup. What clutch linkage is available? I see the hydralic units, but was wondering about the release feel. Any ideas about what you did is appreciated.
thanks
Tony

 

Here are some pix of the parts I made/modified to put a mechanical clutch linkage in my avatar. they are all GM donor parts except the pivot ball bracket that bolts to the bellhousing. I used Nova pedals and mounted the M/C on the firewall.

 

That would feel awkward to have both the clutch and brake pedal left of the column. May take time to get used to that.

 

If you want to keep the floor pedals it is easy. Weld a 2 inch tab on the bottom of the clutch pedal on the passenger side and drill a 3/8 hole 1 1/2 inches down from the pedal. I then used a 57 Chevy car clutch fork and rod (that went from the bell crank or Z bar) and adjusting nut. I easily bent the rod to go thru an original hole in the X member and it worked smooth as silk. All of the 57 Chevy parts are readily available and cheap.

 

Hello 47 Ragtop!
Do you have any pics of your set up?? You using Original 40 pedals?
T&A Customs, I have some pics that I will post for you to see the set ups I have researched, unfortunately it is on my other computer at home.
I have a 36 Coupe that I want to put a similar set up as yours.

 

Photos courtesy of Bob G. Here on the HAMB (Thanks Bob!)

 

The pedals are in the same relation to the column as they were in the Nova; the brake pedal is curved around the column to the right.

 

Very nice setup.

 

that`s what i was looking for.
thanks
Tony

 

Just to clarify my first post

 

per the old saying, a picture is worth a thousand words.

 

No I sold both of my 40's with that setup years ago. I did use the original pedal assembly. The pictures you posted are very similar to what I did to the bottom of the pedal (tab added). My setup was much simpler because I didn't have a Z bar , just a rod from the pedal tab to the clutch fork that pulled the fork backwards rather than push it backwards. The pedal effort was easy and worked correctly.

 

I tried that on my 37 Ford. It functioned, but not well in my car. Because of the downward angle from clutch fork to pedal tab, the clutch fork would drag against the bell housing. To correct the alignment, another guy with a 37 Ford used a Nova bell housing which positions the clutch fork at 8 o'clock versus 9 o'clock (viewing the bell housing from the rear.)

I ended up fabbing a hydraulic setup, using the original clutch pedal.

 

For what it's worth, a '52-'56 Ford car pedal assembly fits a '40-'47 Ford truck cab like it was custom made for it.

 

^^^ I may have to try this on my '41 P.U. Are you talking about the clutch and brake assemblies?

 

That clears things up. Looks like a nice set up from below too.

 

It looks like there is a interferance between the brake pedal and the clutch fork. Does it clear?

 

I used a '55 Ford pedal assembly (clutch and brake) in my '38 Ford pickup, took some modification to make it work due to the stepped design of the firewall. '40-'47 cab has a flat firewall. Gave another pedal assembly I had to a friend who is building a '46. The whole pedal assembly went in like it was born there, just had to drill a few holes to mount it and cut holes in firewall for clutch and brake m/c. '52-'56 Ford cars have a mechanical clutch linkage, but the pedal assembly is as happy as it can be working a hydraulic clutch. Just drill hole in the pedal arm for the push rod pivot.

 

I had exactly that interference issue in my 37 Ford. With the clutch pedal depressed, the position of the clutch fork prevented the brake pedal from being fully depressed. I had to remove the brake pedal to re-shape it for clearence.