400 crank in a 350...What do you gain?

maybe its because I just have a mild cam its a edelbrock rpm. God and you got me on the rods I cant remember at the moment its been 3 years since I built it. I'll have to look that one up. So you saying if I go with a bigger cam watch for rod bolt clearence?

 

Definitely. The only reference I could find to it in a hurry was here http://www.strokerkits.com/build_your_own_383.htm .
Look down at the bottom of the page where it tells you about the rods included. I have read it in a ton of books and magazines, but I couldn't find any of those articles on the web (at least not quickly). If you're running the 400 rods, it won't be a problem at all, but if you have the 5.7" 350 rods, you're lucky you haven't had trouble!

 

I am considering building a stroker for my 4x4 truck and was wondering if this would be a proper application for the stroker. I am buying a new Jegs 350 block and was wondering if ya'll had any helpful hints.

 

Lunati has 383 cranks ready to go,for less than screwing around with a stock 400 crank.

 

If your gonna build the 400 use 5.7 rods makes for a better ratio and doesnt wear the bore out near as bad less side loading.that was one of the faults of the 400 was the bores egg shaping and the rings not holding a seal also watch the steamholes in the deck they tend to crack a little too far sometimes.always bore with torque plates.

 

My 383 SBC recieved some investment and research, and it paid off.

With a solid roller, AFR CNC heads, the Lunati "ready to go" internally-balanced reciprocating assembly, 6-inch rods, and internal engine coatings, it made 545hp at 6,400 rpm.

The story is here:
http://www.compcams.com/Community/Articles/Details.asp?ID=1945664039

The details are in the link, but I did a "twin" 355 (also mentioned in the story) that made 515hp at 6,400 with all the same internals.

It's a good package that would serve as a decent blueprint. Use my homework...it works.

Oh- Did I mention this was all on 87-octane??

9.7:1 with coatings and its fine on 87.

~Scotch~

 

use aftermarket heads. for 750 you can find complete sportsman II iron heads, drill the steam holes properly, easy power. most people dogged the 400 because of its shitty heads and low stock compression. for the 350, sportsman heads will help alot to wake it up, but instill patience in the kid to put together the right package. look at crate motor specs and go from there, it will turn out better with matched parts.

.02

 

Holy Cow Scotch thats alot of horsepower. How streetable would you say a motor like that is? If you don't mind, whats the ballpark on what an engine like that costs?

 

I bought my Eagle forged crank,H-beam rods, pistons, bearings, etc. from CNC Motorsports.com. Great prices and great service. They also sell Scat...


http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/category.asp?CtgID=1020



Mutt

 

I drive it on the street. It's a lopey, crisp idle, and I wouldn't want to put a converter behind it. I chose a T56 instead. Vacuum is at a premium, so consider that too. No vacuum accesories for me.

If you have a good, machined block, it'd be another 5K or so in parts.

Labor would be more, but I can do that.

It's an ass kicker for an 87 octane deal, and I'm adding a 150-shot soon. I'll run 92 when I intend to spray it.

It's in a heavy car (3,700-lb '67 Chevelle wagon) and will see street, strip, and road course. I went with the Milodon baffled pan for the cornering.

Beyond usual solid lifter stuff (lash etc.) it's a no sweat deal. Shift at 6,500 and it'll go and go...

The combination is what's key. The Air-Gap, solid roller, and CNC'd heads make it work. The coatings make it work on 87.

~Scotch~

 

I gain about $200.00 every time I grind one of those cranks, slowed down since the new ones became available.

 

I have a sbc 350 bored 60 over with a 400 crank 10 , 10 over. What would be my stroke, liter, and cubic inch of my motor?

 

Either Reher or Morrison wrote an article about engines about 20 years ago he said why build a 383 and lose 20 or so cu. in. He also touched on camshafts saying that after market cams are so much better than factory cams like the 30-30 or L79 compared to a Comp cams high energy or magnum cam for example. His reasoning was the aftermarket cams are essentially blueprinted where-as factory cams are not.

Pat

 

@Preston ault

Universal formulas... just plug in your particular numbers--

Bore x bore x stroke x # of cylinders x 0.7854 = cubic inches
(ex: 4 x 4 x 3.48 x 8 x 0.7854 = 349.84, or 350 cubic inches)

Cubic inch x 0.0164 = liters
(ex: 350 x 0.0164 = 5.73, or 5.7L)

 

I have 3 400 sbc's in my cars . All built in various combo's . One old trick when putting 5.7 rods in a 400 is to use arp 4.3 chevy V6 rod bolts , they have more taper on the head for increased cam clearance.

 

If you are going to put the engine in a truck and pull a large trailer I like the 383 because of coolant all the way around the cylinders. 64cc heads and flat top pistons can get you a lot of compression for pump gas.

 

Had a 406 with 5.7 rods and a Edelbrock performer cam in my 51 Chevy pick up great motor never had any overheating issues and pulled from the bottom to 5800 all day long.

 

Historic 'authors' in this thread!
SBC lore, great stuff.

 

I think 283's is a matter of choice, old time tradition and previous experience. I like a 283 just like a 250 Chevy six. I have he both with great reliability . Old hot rods with 283's with 2 barrel, 4 barrel or 3x2 just screams good old times.