Thanks for the pics. Let me see what I can find out this week from manuf. Appreciate you going out of your way to help me and send the pics. I will post what I find out. PS: The Wizard of OZ is my Wife's favorite movie, She knows the entire script and the words to all the songs. I have to watch as she is in charge of the Flying Monkeys in these parts of KS.
If you can't find anything that works you can give me a call at Lares corporation. We can rebuild your box for you and as good if not better than when it was new. M y name is Jerry the number is 763-691-1400 if you are interested
Thanks Jerry. I don't think rebuilding this box is possible as I believe it is a first generation type. If I can go with a second generation 41 thru 48 then I would consider a rebuild provided the one I find needs it. The one I have has both worn out worm and sector gears and I have never seen any available and believe me I have looked. I do have a guy who has a 48 gear box he says is in good condition with no play and turns easily by hand off the car. We are dealing and I will most likely order from him for now just to get a quick repair and make the car drivable. I will not give up on my original thought of swapping/retrofitting a new modern gearbox. The Vega is not going to cut it so have moved on to researching the Saginaw. However, I will certainly keep you in mid if I need a rebuild of either. Thanks again.
I am in the same boat. Rebuilt the pitman arm, which helped, but the box is worn out and is adjusted to the max. I hesitate to install a new column from a more recent model. Has anyone made headway on this in the past couple of years?
I have read all of these posts and some are very informative. Our family 1941 Chevrolet Coupe was purchased by my parents in late 1941 (see photo below). The 1941 Chevrolet steering - here being unduly criticized as being an engineering failure ...... solved by welding, Vega /Mustang / M2 transplants, throw the baby out with the bathwater etc. ...... The problem is - there are probably less than 5 persons on the planet who can correctly adjust a 41 steering box - especially while it is in the car!!!! This is not a job you wake up one morning and say, oh boy, I get to adjust the steering box today!!! Most of us would rather look forward to a root-c**** or wisdom tooth extraction. If I remember correctly, the 41 Saginaw box is one of a kind, not to mention lasts forever. Don't forget, the 1941 Chevrolet was also the 1942, 1943, 1944 and 1945 Chevrolet - used extensively by the U.S. Military in WW-2. Could we have won the war without it? The simple problem, is that in accordance with the official 1941 Chevrolet Factory Repair Manual (see manual), the 3 steps need to be followed exactly - then when you get to and finish step 3, step 2 and step 3 have to be re-done together. Of course we all know, if adjustment is attempted with the Pitman Arm connected or the wheels on the ground - forget it, you are a non-starter - you get what you deserve. Put the Pitman Arm bolt back on and attach a vice grip to the bold - so you can accurately feel the steering box play. You are going to be going back and forth under the car to under the hood about 50 times during this ordeal. Great patience is anticipated. Also, disconnect the horn ....... First, looking at step 1, do we really know how to ***ess the "end-play" spoken of in step 1? Let's review ..... you have to get in the front seat of the car and pull very hard "up" on the steering wheel .... if you feel any play, tighten down the big adjustment nut until just when the play is gone. No more needs to be done. Tighten it up the securing clamp and move on - after you make sure you did not mess up the horn adjustment. Next, tighten up step 2 adjustment to "mere contact". Step 3 is a very critical step and most often the step either not done or not correctly performed. The reason being, we cannot visualize what on earth we are supposed to be accomplishing here ........ It aligns the 2 halves of the steering case along with all the internal components - if you can possibly image that. Don't feel bad if you can't. Tighten up step 3 (after you completely remove the eccentric bolts, clean and inspect them) to the maximum point of adjustment and removal of free play the eccentric bolts will allow - which is a result of each of the two eccentric bolts individually aligning a separate half of the steering box casing. Just for good measure mark the bolts so you can see the physical relationship - check free play. More tightness of the eccentric bolts is not better. There will most likely still be a tiny bit of play remaining. - then tighten down the casing - a little more play will disappear. The final locking tightness of the eccentric bolts does not have to be over-done. Over tightening can mess up the eccentric bolt alignment. All free play might be gone at this point .... BUT IF IT ISN'T .... If any play remaining, then return to step 2 and tighten slightly more than mere "contact". until no more free-play. Bingo, perfect steering - even with rubber y-bushings - which were a very nice "comfort" design. Good luck guys. Connie
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