Projects 41 Ford pickup finally got it home and pictures pictures

That's a cool tach mount for sure. I stumbled into some luck when I flipped the insert over and started sorting through the parts that came with the gauges. The u bracket for the speedometer cleared the bottom row and the top row u clamp is modified so it rests on back side of the dash and helps hold the panel tight. Now I am thinking I could silicone the panel to the dash instead of more clamps.
Thanks BB

 

Just a suggestion on gauge layout.
Fuel and coolant temp are the two watched the most on a long cruise.
Put them both on the same side, or both in top row. I like top row as eyes on speedo can easily see both.
Oil pressure and volts get less attention while driving.

 

I'll have to wait until I get the cab back on and the column in. Maybe by spring but thanks for the suggestion.

 

I always feel that the most important gauges to see are the Oil Pressure and temp so I want them where they're easily visible. But that is a personal decision on what you want where you can see them easily.

 

3 months since my last post. The damage to the windshield area on the cab set me back and pissed me off. I can't solve problems without a clear mind. Here is a picture of the start of the repair.

The damage from mouse piss is growing.

Some trimming to do and spot welds to cut on the pinch weld. I think I will have to make the patch in 2 pieces.

 

Maybe make a little door in the bottom of that that drops down to hold your sunglasses and garage door opener.
Like this but not for a toyota

 

Interesting idea, but right now , I'll be happy with a patch that didn't warp the pinch weld so the windshield seal doesn't leak.

 

Feel your pain, I'm currently repairing both sides of the body above the door openings, and the top corner of the windscreen frame due to rodent infestation, just when I thought I was done with the rust. Keep going, you'll get there

 

That's funny Joel. Pretty much every hot/street rod event I've attended over the years where it's rained had most (if not all) the attendees sopping up windshield, side window, door seal or cowl vent seepage with towels, shamwows, paper towels etc. Some more than others.

 

I think mice are worse than regular rust : neither is good.

My coupe windshield doesn't leak , but the cowl vent does a little and at the top of the vent window you can see daylight..... can't go through a car wash for sure.

 

I finally got a patch for the hole above the windshield. A neighbor from about 40 years ago said he could make it in one piece by shrinking it. He did it. He was in grade school when his parents moved out of the neighborhood and I hadn't seen him since. Turns out , he is a real car guy and meatal finisher.
All I had to do was a some trimming.


The hole before trimming.

first tacks; I wanted the fit tight front to rear so the weld wouldn't pull the pinch weld
All the edges lined up and finish weld started. I'm going to tig the little notches on the pinch weld flange. The big vice grips are holding the roof side of the pinch weld in place against a piece of angle iron .

 

I finally got the patch above welded in and welds dressed.



Then, I found 2 holes just above the upper hinge mount. Piece made and welded in and working on dressing weld.

 

Good solid repairs, Joel. It was advantageous that you were able to get the cab upside down.

 

Absolutely, Mart; when I'm welding I have to get my face pretty close to the work. The rotisserie is borrowed and the oowner is going to need it back soon.

 

Dressed the hinge weld and found more pin holes. I also touched up a factory weld that was partially cracked.

I need to do a little more on the one in the last picture.

 

Finally removed a rusty piece of cab skin.

With the cab upside down, I can see better and not use a step stool. I added a piece of steel ,tacked between the rotisserie mount arms, to hold the door gaps that exist when the cab is right side up. This happens due to the clearance in the rotisserie parts that allow for their adjustment.

First cut away and lots of trimming and fitting to come.

I don't know how this is going to come out and fortunately, the front fender will hide a lot of the patch seam. Fingers crossed.

 

It will work out. It is only metal so do not overthink it but rationalize. Remember when you do one thing with metal something else will inevitably also happen. Take your time. do not get frustrated. You can always cut it back out and start over just don't get frustrated. You will have some compound curves to content with so, take your time.

 

I know you're right, but the words are great to hear. Thanks for following.

 

It is always interesting to see how other people attack a problem that arises. Helps one to learn something new every day so life doesn't get boring. 

 

Stay tuned; I should have the first patch fit and ready to tack in soon. I'll have to re-hang the door to check fit of the patch.

 

Lots of welding and grinding, but some progress.

I decided to add this piece from the patch panel. The re-inforcement that was here is for mounting the front fenders if the cab is used on the big trucks. Otherwise it's useless and leaves 2 open holes under the pickup fenders.

The nasty hole in the pic (left-center) is a mounting hole for the front fender on the pickup. At least it was on mine. I think I'm about ready to tack the rest of the patch in place. Thus the copper weld through primer. On the other side, I'll do the panel all in a one piece patch.

 

It's good to see you posting your project progress again Joel!

 

I don't recognize that hole in the cowl. I see why they made it though and agree to leave it. What do you think about reinforcing it though, maybe clean it up and weld a washer in the back? So it isn't just sheet metal.