Projects 41 plymouth coupe 392 hemi build thread

I'm sure that a professional gl*** cutter could to the job. I certainly won't be the one doing it!

 

V-****ing the gl*** is better for driving ( vision ) , center divider more traditional. I'm thinking that V-****ing it would be quicker and cheaper. I use 1/4" masonite for patterns for the gl*** guy.

 

I think you're correct. The vision aspect is important to me, considering it's already limited due to the chop. But by using two pieces of gl***, how are they "bonded" together?

 

Divided we stand, bonded we fall... In my humble opinion, go for the divided screen.

 

Clear Silicon. Has worked for over 10 years now and still leakproof. The key is to have a very small gap between the two halfs. You need some gap due to body flex. My OT 41 Chevy in my album is a good example of the finished product.

 

Well said! I do like the divided gl*** better too, I just need to work out how I'm going to use the existing divider with the stainless in a chopped state. I know Jochen (thinkfink) is having the same problem at the moment, so I'm going to be patient and see what he can come up with.

 

Thanks milwsruffy. How big is the gap?

 

About 3/32" ( .093 ) gap does it. But if you do use the divider and get clever you could mount the rearview mirror off of it.

 

Thank you sir! I appreciate your advice.

 

Eric,

I just spent 2 days reading this thread. Awesome skills you have there. Beautiful ride too. Can't wait to see it finished.

A couple things have crossed my mind:

1. Have you abandoned the Hemi connecting rod as a column drop?

2. Do you really want the noise from 2 compressors roaring right behind the seat when refilling the tank? I know it won't run continuously but still...

I have the same Air pod that I am installing in my 56 F100. I am putting mine in the bed along with the battery.

 

Thank you BACAGrizz for the kind words. Glad you like the build.

To answer your questions:

1. I'll be running the standard column drop. I'll paint it black in order to flow with the black dashboard. The Hemi column drop attracted a bit too much attention in my opinion.

2. There is only one compressor in my Air Pod, and yes it will make some noise at times. I'm planning on getting some sound deadening material under the parcel shelf, so I hope it won't be too bad. I do like the fact that I still have some room in the trunk, enabling me to take a few things along on a road trip.

I hope I've answered your questions.

 

still showing good progress farmer12, you make it all look so easy!! whats next on the list?

 

Thanks Plung. The plan is to install the p***enger door and get this all lined up. Then I'm going to work on the bottom of both doors, which have quite a bit of rot in them. This will mean cutting parts out and welding in newly fabricated pieces. Considering the shapes are going to be fairly odd, it may take me some time to do each door. Unfortunately I won't have any time until next week, so you're going to have to be patient with me for the next progress report.

 

Thanks for the heads up on the latches I was concerned they might look over the top and out of place but it appears to be minimal. Your car is coming along great. Build them once and build them right and they will be around for the next generations! I look forward to following this build and seeing more pics as you progress.

Cheers.

Andy.

 

Thanks Andy, hope the Bear Claws work out for you!

 

Had a few hours this afternoon and went over to Bart's house and help him with a few things. We got the panhard adjusted so the rear wheels are equal distance with regards to space in the fenders. Ride height in the rear is alot better now too. Fiddled around with his new amp and sub, which wasn't working. Also talked cars and had a few beers.....was a good afternoon!

 

I found a 48 Plymouth 2 door sedan, a survivor unmolested, complete all original no dents or rust, all hub caps and trim intact. Guy wanted $4000 offered him $1500. this was 2 1/2 years ago and it is still sitting there. I first spotted it because I thought it was a chevy and I wasn’t "up" on Plymouths or its value

 

If the car is all original etc, 4000,00 is perhaps not a bad price. Offer him 3000, maybe he'll take it.....who knows what will happen? You may just end up with a great winter project!

 

Holy **** man! Looking good!!! I gotta get my *** in gear and get some work done haha.

 

Thanks Gavin. I'm back in my garage for a few hours the next couple of days and hope to make some more progress.

 

Went out and bought myself a new hammer/dolly set and got to work straight away. The bottom of the doors are in a bad state, especially the p***enger side, so I made a plan to replace the swiss cheese. I spent most of the afternoon folding back the lower lip and remove the leftover metal strip, without damaging the outer skin. Cleaned it up and sprayed some anti rust primer on, of which I didn't take a pic...

 

Hey!
I got same hammer/dolly kit.Cheap tools,but i've used them nearly 10 yrs.
They work,but i think i need some dollys etc.Too bad that the ******* s**** is not included in that kit..

 

What a coincidence. They were cheap, but I needed some new tools and these will do the trick for that what remains to be accomplished.

 

Just spent close to three hours trying to get the right fit and curvature on the new piece. Finally got it the way I wanted......hoping to get some time this afternoon to weld it in. I decided to replace the parts in stages so that the shape of the door will remain the same.

 

Looking good!!

What kind of primer are you using on the patch panels?

 

I'm working on a 50 Plymouth...I'm considering swapping the inline 6 for more "umph" and want to see what others have done in similar vehicles before digging into my own project, and I want to keep it MOPAR.

 

Thanks Hivolt5.0. I'm using Rostex ST400, which is a quick drying protective primer which I use for the areas not (easily) accessable later when I get the doors sandblasted and primered again. It's also a primer that stands up well to welding.

 

Thank you for the info farmer. I figured it had to be a weld through type primer but wasn't sure. Having followed your thread for awhile I've notice that you use it while making rust repairs and I agree with you it's a good idea to use something to protect those "hidden" areas. After all your hard work, don't want the art work to rust again.

Thanks again!!

 

It all depends on your ability, time and money. There's plenty of info here on the Hamb from other guys that have done engine swaps. And I agree: keep it Mopar.

 

Welded in my newly fabricated panel and smoothed it with the grinder. Placed a few spot welds on the lip to keep the metal in place. Then gave it a quick spray of primer. Then moved on to the adjacent piece, cut it out, cleaned it up and primered that as well. Going to fabricate more tomorrow.