Projects 41 plymouth coupe 392 hemi build thread

Hi Eric,

The Hemi is looking great on the chasis

Your plymouth is looking awesome

Respect

Greet, Joe

 

Thanks Joe. It's just a shame I need to take the Hemi out again when I get my chassis powdercoated. After that, she'll be in there for good. Thanks for the comments.

 

Thanks guys! I see the 5 stars as an appreciation from fellow builders. I've never understood why you would give one star to someone.........if you don't like it, just move on. A lot of guys work their a$$ off to build their car to the best of their ability, with sweat and tears, and this is what should be appreciated and supported.

to speed v8, I will have the car driveable next year, whether or not the interior will be completely done depends on the finances. But she'll be driving for sure. Thanks again for the comments.

 

I am surprised this doesnt happen more often. I always get side tracked lol. Looking good man.

What are you doing to clean the lip of that door skin (where it rolls over)? are you going to seal it? Just wondering, my doors are not as bad as yours so I won't have to do the same thing you are doing, but you never know when I am going to have to use that skill. How much more do you have to tackle on that door?

 

will you have to put any drain holes in your patch panels??? It's hard to tell from the photos where the factory drain holes were. Just curious. As everyone else has stated, you're doing a mighty fine job.

 

The lip surprisingly is not welded anywhere, it just holds the inner and outer panel together. I basically bend the lip up, remove the inner panel piece, clean/sand the dirty area and spray it with an anti rust primer. Once the new piece is fabricated, I slide it down, and bend the lip back into place. Once the lip is hammered straight again, I place a weld on the top of the lip every inch, which will connect it to the inner panel. Grind the welds smooth and you're done.

With regards to the whole door, it will still take some time as I need to re-do the welds where it was chopped, remove the vent window brackets, move the window track forward and see if the whole thing needs strengthening. Then I need to figure out how I'm going to make the bear claw operation work and where to place the electric window regulator. And I need to install the electric window as well. So as you can see, I ain't finished with this door soon.

 

Did not notice any drain holes, but did not look closely I must admit. I presume that the 9 or 10 "clips" on the bottom are to retain a rubber of some sort. I'll have a look at the bottom of the driver's door to find out if I can locate the drain holes. Maybe the drain holes are the two louvered sections? Thank you for pointing it out.

 

What an outstanding build! Nice plan, nice execution.

 

I think that those clips are dual purpose, I maybe incorrect though. They sure didnt work that well if they are so rusty haha.

You know what would be different is if you made the quarter windows roll down... They would be completely useless because there aren't any seats back there and they are so small, but would be fun to look at.

 

Thank you charleyw. Glad you like the thread and thank you for the comments.

 

Long time no hear, Eric. Gotta give my respects once again for your elaborate thread. No short cuts here ;-)

-Pasi

 

Thanks Pasi, good to hear from you again! Trying to keep the build going at a steady pace in order to have it on the road next year.

 

Eric, I would say yes the louvered spots are your drain holes. What power window set up are you using? I've seen ones that use the existing window tracks but replace the crank portion with an electric motor or the universal type that includes all the tracks? nice work lookin great. shawn

 

If you look closely there are four slots formed for drainage right where the door skin crimps onto the frame at the bottom edge. Not very big and that's why theres rot.

 

Shawn, I think you're correct. the louvered panels are the drain holes. I'm trying to think of something else I can use instead of these louvres.......

With regards to the electric windows, I opted for a general use setup from Juliano's. I still had the box laying in my office, so I thought it was time to unwrap it and take a closer look. I will need to customize it a little but they should work. I will get rid of the ugly switches and use a normal window crank with an electric switch behind it.

 

100% correct. So I'm going to work out something else for the drainage probelm, just don't know what yet.........if someone has an idea, let me know.

 

drill 4 or 5 1/2'' holes and use a punch from the inside to dimpple them out so they drain

 

Thanks for the input cowboyinachair! I did think about something like this, but there's a problem. The water will still get in the lowest part where the inner and outer panel meet. The holes can never prevent water getting in here. I've also been thinking and perhaps if I use silicone right in the bottom and slant it slightly towards the front and let it exit via a through a hole in the front of the door. Anyone else have another suggestion?

 

Silicone, nahhhh.
Use a good 2 part firm or self leveling seam sealer like Fuzor or Wurth.

 

Thanks Artfrombama. That was actually the word (sealant) I was looking for. Thanks for the input.

 

Let's see if I can say this right...could you take a small nail or piece of wire, pregreased and insert them through your weep holes from the bottam of the door, apply sealant of your choice into the offending crease and then pull the nail/wire out through the bottam after the sealant has cured?
That way the metal is mostly protected and the hole in the sealant is where the water runs through.

 

Thanks Frankie47. That's a great idea. I may have to try that one.

 

It was back in the garage today. Removed the next piece and found quite a bit of surface rust. Cleaned it up, sprayed it with primer and fabricated a new one. Quite a challenge as it's slightly rounded and tapers off towards the end. A welding session is planned for tomorrow.

 

Nice & Clean. I think a lot of people outside of the car world have no clue how many little details and odds and in's it takes to complete a car. Most of the work goes by unoticed but it's all those little details that make a killer car.

I love it! Keep it up.

 

Thanks James! I presume a lot of people would call me crazy spending about 15 hours on the bottom of a door.......something you'll never see unless the door is open and you're laying on the ground. My primary objective is to have a well built car that is rust free and modified/customized to my taste.

Oh, nearly forgot. Got my stuff from Lokar and Ididit today. A 12' shifter with a black ball and boot ring from Lokar and an additional coupling and a rod end bearing from Ididit. I'll need these to make an extra bend in the steering linkage in order to clear the headers and frame. This stuff is looking awesome!

 

I'll probably end up plagiarizing some ideas off here as I had been thinking about drainage holes in my doors as well.

You're making great progress. Keep it up!


iPhone - TJJ App

 

I think a lot of people here are taking notice of what farmer12 is doing. You rarely witness such an intensive build. I admire his perserverance and patience. Keep up the great work.

 

Thanks guys.

 

Welded in the last "straight" piece. Then it was onto the corner piece. I welded the flat piece on and gave it some primer. Then welded this in, cleaned it up and painted it. I still need to to the other corner, bend the lip back/spot weld and get the Dremel out to clean up the welds where the pieces meet at the bottom. All in all, got quite a bit done today.

 

Eric, after you bend the door skin back over on the bottom are you going to cover that with seam sealer?