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Projects 41 plymouth coupe 392 hemi build thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by farmer12, Apr 7, 2010.

  1. hemi v8
    Joined: Jan 25, 2012
    Posts: 101

    hemi v8
    Member

    I just spent most of the weekend reading your build thread. Absolutely amazing work. Like someone said before, you are a true hot rodder in every sense of the word. I'll be following this build from now on. Keep up the awesome work. Subscribed.
     
  2. Plung
    Joined: Aug 15, 2011
    Posts: 165

    Plung
    Member
    from San Diego

    Great work farmer12, nice job on the garnish mouldings.
     
  3. the DutchDude
    Joined: Mar 11, 2010
    Posts: 282

    the DutchDude
    Member

    i think all the work like youre doin to youre garnish moldings etc make it a ''true kustom''
    most people just do a chop ,a shave and a flat finish or something and that's it!!
    i love it when someone spends so much time and energy in the smaller stuff ,most don't even notice
     
  4. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    Thank you DutchDude! Like you said, most people will never notice..........but I will every time I sit in the car. Do it once, do it good. It's a simple motto, but it works.:D
     
  5. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    Thank you hemi v8! Glad you like the thread.
     
  6. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    Thank you Plung. I still need to weld the original holes in them and make new ones where the garnish screws go in the door. Another little tedious job, but satisfying when finished.:D
     
  7. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,724

    n847
    Member

    Have you ever thought about mounting the alternator to the drive shaft, thats been covered on here a couple times! I think Speedway has some kits for race cars!
     
  8. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    Thank you for thinking along n847! This is certainly another option that hasn't been mentioned. The only problem I see is that the battery will not be charging when standing still. (and perhaps a maximum speed for the alternator when doing 70 mph?) I could mount it on the rear axle and perhaps have an extra belt tied to the third member in case the first one should break.....In the above mentioned position, it would be more susceptable to water and dirt, but I suppose I could make a cover underneath it.

    One other thing: I would need a belt tensioner on the waterpump/crankshaft belt. (unless I go for the electric waterpump......which in turn would drain the battery quicker when standing still.......

    Plenty to think about here.....if anyone has any other thoughts, please post.
     
  9. plmczy
    Joined: Aug 3, 2001
    Posts: 2,408

    plmczy
    Member

    looking good Eric, the door garnish mouldings came out beautiful. Have you figured out what your doing with the front windshield garnish yet?
     
  10. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    Thank you plmczy! With regards to the front windshield moulding, I'm going to mount the two halfs as well as possible and cut them where the chop is performed on the a pillar. That way I can follow the vertical lines as closely as possible.
     
  11. BuiltFerComfort
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 1,619

    BuiltFerComfort
    Member

    There is always the electrically driven alternator idea….

    Aw, you probably wanted GOOD ideas. I've seen a fan-driven pulley that drives a shaft to a rear-mounted alternator. Shaft ran under headers. It was on a T- bucket. You could also go to the side, with the alt inside the fender well with a dual groove pulley driving it & driven by motor. Would need a tensioner pulley too since it would be decoupled from motor.

    That's the only other option I can think of without major rework like a split distributor drive or other outlandish ideas.


    Tom
     
  12. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    Thank you for the input Tom! I've been doing a bit more reading on driveshaft operated alternators and have come to the conclusion that it's going in front of the engine. I'm going to look into the electric driven waterpump a bit more. This may just be the solution.....
     
  13. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    Finished off the "sail" panel on the driver side window garnish. The contour of the door came in handy in order to form the upper part. Going to grind it a little more and then give it some primer. The plan is to have both garnish mouldings done by the end of the week.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Hogman
    Joined: Nov 22, 2011
    Posts: 193

    Hogman
    Member
    from Dallas, TX

    Nice work on the mouldings. If you take your time like you are, the end result can be very satisfying. Keep up the awesome work!
     
  15. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    Thank you Hogman! Positive comments are always appreciated.
     
  16. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    looking good Eric, its all about details. Do you think that the quarter windows are going to be a little harder to do or easier?
     
  17. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    Thanks Scott! Not sure if they are going to be easier, but at least they're a lot smaller..I think it will be a lot of splicing and welding in order to get the tighter radius, especially in the lower rear corners. Time will tell in the coming weeks.:D
     

    Attached Files:

  18. Nice work on the window garnish!
     
  19. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    Thank you K13!
     
  20. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    Sanded the garnish moulding and gave it some primer. Next it was on to the driver door. The PO had left his "scars" here, so it was time to rectify them. Just above the lock, there was still a big gap. So I spliced it carefully, hammered it down and welded it up. On to the front of the door in the next few hours.
     

    Attached Files:

  21. BrerHair
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 5,077

    BrerHair
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Uh-oh . . . click the thumbnails and get no pic. Must be part of the hardware overhaul?
    Anyway, I'm still loving this build Eric.
     
  22. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    On to the outside of the door. There is an ugly cut and weld on the outside, near the door handle, which did not follow the contour of the door at all......so I started cutting, hammer and weld. My little heater in the garage could not compete with the freezing temperatures outside, but still got a fair bit done before my body went numb....
     

    Attached Files:

  23. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    Thank you BrerHair. The overhaul on the Hamb seems to be completed, thumbnails are working again.:D
     
  24. robleticia
    Joined: Oct 15, 2007
    Posts: 2,495

    robleticia
    Member

    Looking good Eric!
     
  25. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    Thanks Rob!
     
  26. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    Finished off the welding on the front of the door.....Next thing are the door handles. Now here in the Netherlands, "officially" you need to be able to open the door from the outside in a normal manner. Meaning no fancy remote opening gadgets. In order to customize it slightly, I thought it would be cool to have the door handle incorporated in the trim, instead of below it. This way, when looking from a distance, it still has the clean look. The door handles are from a MG and nearly as wide as the trim. I was thinking of making two holes in the trim and recessing the two bases of the door handle into it. Anyone have any thoughts?

    (the last picture may look a little weird, but I layed the door flat on the ground, used a tape measure to hold the door handle upright and the covered it with a piece of paper so as not to distract too much. You get the idea.....;))
     

    Attached Files:

  27. Love the idea of "hideing" the door handle in the trim. I know the early '60s T-birds did something similar to that and you are right, it really cleans up the side of the car. Good luck with engineering how to do it.

    Just one question, do you have to have a handle on the outside or could you use a push button to pop open the door?
     
  28. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    Thanks Hivolt5.0! The law states that the door must be able to be opened from the outside in a normal way. This basically means a door handle with a button, pull handle or the "twist" type. Not sure if they would allow just a single push button though.........thanks for the input.
     
  29. robleticia
    Joined: Oct 15, 2007
    Posts: 2,495

    robleticia
    Member

    That is an awesome idea! Good thinking Erik!!!
     

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