41 Plymouth SB Mopar Engine Swap

Great progress Rock. I see what you mean when you say it will be tedious work to fit the exhaust. You've tackled every other problem so far, so this should be a piece of cake. Looking good!!

 

Nice job on the pan.

As for passing the drag link through the pan, Mopar Super Stockers been doing this for decades

 

Yeah, but I didn't want mine to hang down any further than it already did.

 

Thanks, RSR!

 

Things get pretty busy on the driver side of these things when you stick a V8 in where the inline 6 used to be.

Keep plugging away at it, things are looking good. Gene

 

How does the Cav. rack lock-to-lock movement match up with the length of the idler arm? Will it give you lock-to-lock on the spindles, keeping the turning radius down? I saw another rack and pinion install, maybe over at p-15/d24, where the idler arms had to be shortened or else no sharp turns were possible, i.e. parking problems.

Thinking of doing this someday too, so wondering about that part.

 

I've shortened them to about 5" center to center, as measured from the rearmost mounting hole to the tie rod hole. That, coupled with the 4 turns lock to lock r&p, gets me back to about where the car started with the original steering.

I've modded the original steering arms and need one more of the one that has the least offset in it, if anyone has one. If I don't find one, I'm thinking of making my own. You really should have identical (mirror image) steering arms for the r&p to work best.

 

Well, I spent a good portion of the weekend hand carving two steering arms out of 1 X 3 flat bar. They turned out pretty well and are damned strong! Anyone got a reamer they can loan me for the tie rod ends?

 

Rock, when I re-did the taper on the tie rod holes on my 39, I used a die grinder with a de-burring cutter on it. Go slow and check it often. The purpose of the taper is to be sure the end can not lean or rock in the hole and the post will lock into the hole and can't turn. It just needs to be uniform enough that the hole doesn't have high spots that can wear off and allow the post to move in the hole. I couldn't find anyone that would lend me a cutter and didn't have the cash (and didn't want to spend it if I'd had it) to cut 2 holes. Gene

 

"BCS" builds an offset trans crossmember that has weld in brackets for each side then the crossmember bolts in to them for a drop out deal in case you ever need to. The offset is for clearance for their new pedal kit that bolts in to the stock frame location and uses a new 7" Dual Diaphram (needed with the weight of these cars) Booster and dual res master cyl. Also, years ago, when I built the wifes '34 Ply PE Sedan used a 318 and got the OEM Chrysler Cast Iron Hugger type exhaust mainifolds from one side (pass?) of a 70's PU and also from pass side of a big Ply sedan (still 70's I believe). Some have cast ribs in the center area ans some are smooth. These fit outstanding in that old '34, (which is kinda tight), and we used them again later in a friends '37 Ply cpe with a 360 aand Vega Cross Steering on a dropped axle front. Hope some of this info helps.

 

Sorry about above answer for trans mount into that '41 Ply, I was thinking 42/48. That is what that offset trans crossmember fits.

"BCS" also has a dropped trans plate that bolts into that 40/41 Ply X-Member center section, plus a bolt in pedal set up that will accept the new booster and dual cyl. Sorry for that mix-up. '41 Should have the X-Member center!

 

Anyone know whether these are 7 or 10 degree tie rod ends?

I'm not good enough (or patient enough) to do it with a die grinder, Gene!

 

love the work your doing on your plymouth. Bet you had fun making those lower body patch panels.


mine were completely filled with bondo. at least there was some fiberglass to keep it all together haha.

Keep up the good work. Can't wait to see it all done.

 

Mine were too! Not as bad as yours, however. It is a challenging part to make for sure. Good luck!


BTW, the taper on the tie rod ends is 7 degrees for future reference.

 

Butchescoolstuff, Man its nice to see you pop in here. Didn't you deal with, or have a kit to put the Cavilier rack into these 40s Mopars? Do you still have a web site? if so, post up the address, please.

For those that don't know, Butchescoolstuff was the founder of Butches Rod Shop, he was a great provider of Mopar stuff years ago.

Rock, I don't know which rod ends your using, but most Mopar tie rod ends seem to be the 7 degree tapper cut. To be honest, I think it only took me about 10 minutes on each hole to fit the tie rods with my die grinder.

Both of you guy's rockers were better then mine, I didn't have any. Gene

 

Butch's new website is WWW.butchscoolstuff.com
I got some stuff for my 41 from him a year or so ago Nice stuff, Excellent Service before and after he got my hard earned cash "Priceless"

MobilDave

 

I have also bought parts from Butch's both in the past and recently for my 360 .Very pleased with his products.

 

Well, I'm just about finished with the front steering installation. I'm also too tired to post pics. I'll do that next weekend.

I had to re-make my mounts and move the center of my rack to the left about 1/2-3/4". i.e At straight ahead, the left tie rod will be shorter than the right. I really don't think this will matter and I still think it will be eons better than the OEM steering.

This move gave me a straight shot at hooking up the steering column. I was afraid I'd have to cock the steering wheel a little to the right to work my way down to the rack and pinion.

Does anyone know what kind of lubricant goes into these r&p's? Also, is there a bellows or something that prevents water from getting into it? I didn't receive any of that when I bought mine and I have no idea what it looks like.

Thanks
Rock

 

Ok, here are some pictures of the installation. The '41 chassis is so wide, I had to make a stand off for the passenger side mount.

I'm still looking for answers to the questions about a method of sealing the rack and the lubricant, if anyone knows the answer.

 

I also got my hydraulic clutch master cylinder mounted. This should not have taken as long as it did but I had to keep the opening to the rack input open, as well as clear the clutch pedal as it was depressed. In the end, it all worked out well............I think.

The mount bolts up to the original clutch mounting plate. Also, one picture showes the "shot" to the rack input.

 

LOOKING GOOD ... Rock

Keep at it and you will be driving the old girl before long.

.

 

Thanks, Randy. I'm hoping to be driving next spring...........or summer.

 

The rack should have bellows that attach to the end or the rack and clamp on the inner tie rod. They have to be positioned so they don't extend too far or bind.
Power racks take PS fluid, manual racks can take various lubes.
Check the OE application for info.

 

The best part of it all is that you are keeping it Mopar!

 

Sorry. I'm talking about sealing around the steering input shaft to the rack, not the ends.

 

Lookin Good Rock, I'm beginning to further understand your Quote "You Can't Put A Price Tag On A Good Time!" This is kinda like a nice vacation, the wallet goes out the window...

 

Yep. And I do enjoy doing the work. Its a great stress reliever for me. I often take vacation days to work in my shop.

Ok, it's opinion time and everybody has one. I'm trying to make my car very stock appearing from the outside with the exception of wheels, tires and some moderate lowering. The interior will be traditional but not original.

Here's my question. Should I route the exhaust through the holes in the frame? It would help tuck the exhaust up under the car so that it would not be visible but it would be a pita if I ever had to remove a section of it. I'd for sure have to pull the engine. Also, the fuel tank sits offset to the driver's side and I'm not sure I can run a tailpipe down that side. If not, i'll have two options - turn outs behind the rear wheels or both tailpipes down the passenger side. What do you think?

Truthfully, I shouldn't have to mess with the exhaust for a long time after installing it.

 

Don't think the heat would be benificial to the frame! Ex pipe:. On my '48 we ran the pass side pipe back behind the axle & then crossed over to the drivers side & out the back. The drivers side loops over to go through the gap & then straight back out the pass side, ends up with both pipes being about equal lenth.

 

The heat won't bother the frame because the pipes won't touch it.

Did you use one of those mufflers with the dual inlet and dual outlet? I don't think this is going to work on my '41.

 

Nope, turbo mufflers in front of the axle.