41 Plymouth SB Mopar Engine Swap

Looks real good Rock.

Everything going to clear OK once its sitting on the tires and bouncing up & down?

Football? Your going to choose football over cars?!? Tell me at least your watching the game in the shop?

I can give you a tough time about this because you can't see me sitting on my butt looking at my car, not doing anything. You have done more nice stuff in the last couple months then I have done crappy stuff in the last year. Keep on keeping on, your accomplishments convince the rest of us we should at least try to do something. Gene

 

Awesome progress! Love your build, so much valuable info here! I just re-read this whole thread. Getting inspired to dig into my 40 this winter. Currently half way around the world on business, actually in Holland, Eric's (farmer) neighborhood.

 

I'm pretty sure it is. The exhaust, the body and the frame don't move relative to each other except what little the body mounts and motor mounts flex.

College Football is my "other passion". If my team is playing, I'm not working on the car. It will be there when football season is over and I'm not in a hurry to finish. It'll be ready when it's ready.

Get up off your duff and get to work, Gene! What are you waiting on? Inspiration?

Thanks for the compliments, guys!

 

Looking good rock. Are you using stainless pipe?

 

Thats some clean work...Impressive!

 

No, it's carbon steel. I may have them ceramic coated later on. I'm just going to paint them for now .

 

Nice work Rock...I still love your qoute "You Can't Put A Price Tag On A Good Time" So true!!!

 

I stole that. It was on the back of Pat and Walt Austin's alcohol funny car. It stuck with me.

 

Good Thread Subscribed

 

Wow for some reason I just stumbled on this today.. I have a 41 coupe started a similar build years and years ago (I'm too ashamed to say decades) I have had missgivings about the things I did back then and need to reconsider most. On my side a a rust free body! Great work and thanks for making the effort to share.

 

i picked up this article over on MOPARTS, thanks moparts street rodders,,

i just spent 2 nites reading the entire tread,,,some great stuff,,

i have a 40 dodge buss coupe,been down for 2 years now,,hoping to be able to get it back on the road over the winter,,,hoping for a mild winter,,

ill be saving this topic on my favorites,,

rock,1 question,,have you measured your throw on your clutch master set up ? the reason i ask, i cant see it completely, for best results the push rod is connected 1 1/2 to 2 inches from the pivot point of the pedal,,

i have the same master on my barracuda,and im a little under 1 /12 and i do not get full travel from the master, to push the slave cyl enough after the clutch disk warms up and swells a tad,,,i will have to modify it soon,,,

 

Ugh. You may have given me a headache. Do you have this type transmission and clutch? I only have 7/8" of travel. I just matched up the bore of the master cylinder to the slave. I could go with a larger bore master and compensate for it, however.

What is the actual stroke of the master cylinder pushrod?

Can anyone else confirm how much Volume it takes to move the slave sufficiently to disengage the clutch? I should have thought of this. Thanks.

 

Could you stick some type of pressure gauge on the line coming out of your clutch master to see how much pressure you get out of it?

Once you have that info, you could find out how much pressure is needed to disengage the clutch (although not sure where you'd even begin to hunt for that detail...I'm sure the type of clutch you have would impact that).

 

It's not about pressure, Dan. It's about travel which equates to volume. The oil is under pressure but in this case, it's incidental because we already know that the 3/4" slave cylinder can do the work.

When you have a 3/4" master cylinder and a 3/4" slave cylinder, one inch of travel into the master equals one inch of travel out of the slave.

The slave has an area of .44 sq. in. So, .44 sq. in. X 1.5 in = .66 cu. in. of oil required to stroke the slave 1.5 in.

A 1" master cylinder has an area of .785 sq. in. So, .66 cu. in. of oil / .758 sq. in = .84 in of input stroke or about 7/8". Hydraulics is what I have done for 32 years. Clutches are not.

 

Well, I got the exhaust finished up and the fuel pump and line installed. I then hung the doors, which will need some work. That will be my next project. No need for pictures, plus I'd have had to do them from creeper view.

 

Rock, It is coming along, keep up the good work!

 

You really don't need alot of travel at the t/o bearing. Take a look at the amount of travel in the hyd bearings and you see how little they move. Yes, some pressure plates need more than others but you only need enough movement to unlock the disc.
Can you get a close look whilst someone pushes the pedal?

.

 

Looking good Rock!! Im moving right along as well. Keep us posted!

 

I don't have it hooked up. I will do that before I change the master cylinder. I was hoping someone knew, for sure, how much travel for a 98 Dakota 5 speed clutch.

 

My 90 Dakota slave (all original parts installed on my 48 Plymouth) travels a little less then an inch, (a little hard to hold the slave, push the pedal & read a tape measure). You should be OK. Gene

 

Oh, thank you Gene! I was hoping so.

 

Still working on the doors. I've got the gaps pretty good and the skins reasonably straight. Very little filler will be required. I'm reworking the hinges and need to catch a good day to sandblast my dash and a couple of exhaust pieces. Body work will go slow. I can do it but I'm not fast.

 

its been a while but you can get the figures for the push rod travel from speed way motors i believe if not wilwood for sure,,if i remember correctly it has a little over an inch of push rod travel, the slave cyl i use travels 1 3/8. i use the cnc from speed way,, you need to be able to push that master completely and put a pedal stop to get max travel from the master into the slave or throw out bearing,,,,it all comes down to how much that pressure plate needs to move to release the clutch,,

 

Still smoothing sheet metal and fixing rusty edges and flanges on the fenders. Nothing exciting.

 

It's all the tedious body work (that most people hate doing) that pays huge dividends when the car is done.

Hammer, Level, Fill, Sand, Feel, Look, Repeat
Hammer, Level, Fill, Sand, Feel, Look, Repeat

One trick I learned from a body guy that helps. Buy some soft paper towels that don't have a quilted pattern on them. After you work a section and wipe it down, take a dry paper towel and put your hand over it and run your hand over the section. You'll be able to get a better feel for any waviness in the panel. The paper towel helps your hand go over the area easier than your bare hand alone.

 

Patience is the key. Bodywork can be very tedious at times, but by taking your time, you'll receive the best results. The only times I made mistakes, was when I was in a hurry.........

 

I'm in no hurry. When I'm done, I will be done.

 

I hear that...

 

This is one of my lines too. (or are we just saying it because the build is not going quick enough....)

 

I really enjoy building it better than I enjoy driving it. Weird, I know but that's just me.