41 Plymouth SB Mopar Engine Swap

After a week and a half of vacation in Northern CA, I was glad to get back home on Friday. I enjoyed all of the wine and West Coast that I could handle. I really didn't feel like smoothing dents and fixing rusted out fender flanges, etc., so I decided to do something challenging.

Before I left, I called Steve DeMarco at Carolina Custom Hot Rod Parts and he sold me all the parts needed to install Bear Claw latches into my '41. Since I wanted to keep the exterior and interior handles, his coaching was just what I needed and he sent me exactly what I needed to do the complete job.

It took me most of the day to do one side but I am extremely happy with the way it turned out. I am using his Locking Rotary Door Latches and will install electric solenoids to engage the locks. This is a 15 minute max job and I haven't done that part yet.

In order to install these and use the original handles, you have to lower the latch 2-3". I did not measure what I did but I eyeballed my installation to put the latcjh where it neede to be in order to be able to use the interior latch mechanism. It worked out perfectly. I ended up having to weld a stud into the bell crank to accomodate the interior latch and eliminate interference with the link from the exterior handle.

The exterior handle is mounted as normal and one of Steve's outside door handle kits is bolted to the interior panel of the door. The exterior handle fits through this, has a lever to actuate the latch and is spring biased towards the normal position. Hopefully, you can see all this in the pictures.

The OE stationary jamb has a recess in it. As you will see in the pictures, I had to fill it and bring it out flush, so that the latch pin would be near the latch. I ended up having to ship the latch pin with a fender washer to get it right. I also used Steve's latch install kit and used the nut and retainer for the stationary jamb that I built.

This latch works silky smooth once you get the latch pin in the right position and I don't have to worry about my door flying open when everything flexes. I may also install Steve's automatic door lock module that locks the doors when you get between 5 & 10 mph.

Post your questions and/or suggestions if you have any.

 

cont'd.

 

nice work, did you cut out the recessed portion where the original rotary latch was located in the body or did you just patch over it?

 

Looking good Rock! Just one question.....did you strengthen the area behind the bolt on the b pillar? You're still quite a few steps ahead of me as I'm going to tackle the bear claws in a week or so. Thanks for posting the progress.

 

I cut it out. It was easier that way and made for a better finished product.

 

No,Eric. It's just 19 gauge sheet metal. It would take a helluva lot of force to rip that 1" X 1 1/2" nut through, however. Especially since you would be pulling at almost a right angle to it. It's strong enough, IMO.

 

Ok, that sounds reasonable. I did however weld a plate behind the area where the bolt is going to be, but then again, it looks like my bear claws a heavier model. (mine require quite a bit of force to engage.) I'm sure yours will be fine. Looking good.

 

When in doubt, make it stout! Mine close like silk.

 

Hey Rock, how are you progressing?

 

Hey Rock, if I was you, I would at least double up on that 19 gauge behind that striker post. Even the the new cars are double wall at the striker post. It likely won't pull the bolt though, but it can easily distort and crack a single piece of 19 gauge. The constant force applied to the metal between the post and the nut fatigues the metal and causes it to crack out around the post washer.
I fix a lot of striker post areas at my little welding shop. Gene

 

Thanks, Gene.

Progress has been slow. My wife had surgery, plus the work around the house and yard have piled up. Hopefully, I'll get some stuff done during thanksgiving week.

 

Well, I thought I'd post a few pictures. Nothing exciting. I've been using my shrinker and stretcher to fix the areas around the lower rear edge of all the fenders where mud collects and they rust out.

I've got them all done now but I'm just posting pictures of one of the front fenders. Now I'll work on smoothing the dents out as best as I can. I'm learning to smooth metal on my own.

 

I probably should have cleaned those previous parts up a bit, so they wouldn't look so bad.

I've started mounting and fitting the fenders. I've got the fenders pretty well patched up and smoothed out. Next step is to go over them with the shrinking disc.

Then I'll try to come up with a good way to reassemble the front end. Anyone have any good suggestions? How in the heck are you supposed to assemble the darned things after painting without demolishing your paint? It takes at least two people to do this, I assume.

 

beautifull work

 

Looking good Rock! I've done the front assembly alone a few times, but once everything is painted, it's going to be a two man job for sure. Wish I lived a little closer, I'd come over and help you out.

 

I will be back stateside in May...hopefully driving my 41... if you dont have it assembled by then, I am there!

 

I looked thru the pictures posted but I didn't see any of the running boards. If I missed them ..sorry. Does anyone have pics of a running board delete car or possibly the part that replaces the running board?
I've seen one 41 that was a factory running board delete and I would like to make my 41 a delete car. I believe some holes would have to be filled on the fenders to do this. I get tired of parents that don't police their kids at shows and you look over at your car and some kid is standing on the running boards. I have smoothy boards on my 39 Plymouth truck and it happens more that I care to admit.

 

Thanks. I wish you did, too!

 

I am planning to have mine revulcanized by Hunley Acuff. No way I am going to paint them. You are correct that there are holes in the fenders that will have to be filled if you eliminate them.

 

Lookin good Rock, keep up the good work!

 

I see a 40/41 plymouth coupe patch panel business in your future. It looks pretty solid and also looks like you are almost done. I'll be viewing this to have a couple pointers for my '40. Great job so far, keep at it.

 

jbtine
Look at my car in my album I have the runningboard deletes. The factory calls them body side shields and they are hard to come by, I got mine NOS off ebay then found both the rubber and trim NOS also.
41plym

 

I looked thru all my old pics and can't find them!
It has a bit of a curve to it, but is otherwise a fairly simple C channel that bolts in the same holes underneath. There is a cap that was stamped and welded to the front, to close off that area. You will want rear fender splash shields too, since stuff gets kicked up from the front wheels and the lack of a running board means it ends up hitting the front of the rear fenders. Gotta fill the holes in the fenders for the running boards.
This one seems to have the stock ones, but no shield.
http://www.pbase.com/orangecones/1940plymouth

I think these were fabb'ed but you get the idea.

 

Ok. I've been lazy about posting but not about working on my car. Let's catch up.

First, I needed a radiator that would mount in FRONT of the radiator mount to give me some room between the 360 water pump and the radiator. So, I selected a 3 row Model T radiator from Champion that I bought off eBay.

I took the mounts off it and put my own mounts on it. (don't laugh at my aluminum TIG skills. I got it done and it's "acceptable" but not pretty. )

I'm pretty happy with the way it all turned out but it looks like finding a hose to make the turn on the inlet of the pump will be a challenge. Any suggestions?

 

Looks good.

To find a hose that worked for me, I just cut a wire hanger to the length I needed (one end at the rad end and the other at the engine) and brought it to the store searching for something that could be cut so each end of the hose would be at my wire hanger ends.

I think you need something in the form of a sideways question mark. I'm sure you'll find something that could be cut to fit.

Looks like you left enough room so you can get a socket on the end of the crank too. You figure out what you want fan-wise?

I just bought some radiator spray paint from Eastwood to paint mine a satin black since I have it out of the truck...I hate the way it stands out now.

I'm going to shoot mine this weekend. If I have extra, you're welcome to it.

Eastwood is running free shipping till the 31st if you want to pick up some.

 

PS...look here for a Gates Hose reference guide.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=656367&highlight=gates+hoses

 

Ok, here's part 2. This is a tutorial on reassembling the front clip if you're stupid like me and took it off in one piece and then disassembled it without really figuring out how it should have been disassembled/reassembled. (To be fair, many bolts were rusted plus the DS had been hit and when they reassembled it, they did make everything fit up well.

So, here is the sequence for reassembling the front clip.

1. Install the radiator and radiator mount. Do not tighten the bolts, just run them up and allow the mount to move if needed.

2. Make damn sure that you have installed a 3/8" STUD with jam nut in the welded mount that is just below the two sliding 5/16" nuts that are used for the hood and the upper portion of the fender. The reason for a stud will become apparent if you are assembling this by yourself.

3. Find those funny looking pieces that bolt to the radiator frame and that support the front of the fender and figure out which one goes on each side. Good luck! Mount those suckers to the radiator frame along with the inner fenders as shown in the first picture. Support the rear of the inner fender on the aforementioned stud to help in assembly. Do this for both sides and leave the bolts loose so that things can slide around.

4. Mount the brace that goes underneath the radiator and secure it to the bottom of the two funny looking pieces attached to the radiator mount.

5. Attach the front grill piece to the structure using 4 sheet metal screws. (That's the way mine was.) You now have the structure to which you can bolt the exterior panels.

6. Attach the upper piece that supports the hood and fender. Again, use that stud to support the rear while you install the front two sheet metal screws. Do this for each side. You now have everything except the fenders installed!

7. Support the rear of the fender on that special stud. Reach under the fender or through the headligh bucket opening and install a 1/4" bolt and washer to hold the fender and then install the rest of them. Again, don't tighten anything until you make sure that it all lines up to suit you.

8. You may now go back and tighten everything that bolts to the exterior sheet metal or the radiator frame up.

If you are like me, you will have to remove pieces and slot some holes and possibly stretch or shring the flange of one of the pieces to get everything to fit up nicely. I'm not going to tell you how many times it took me but I finally have it all together and the next time will be a lot easier.

P.S. If I screwed up in recalling this, feel free to correct me.

 

Now all this shit didn't go together like it did from the factory. Like I said, my car had been hit on the DS and that side was a real PITA to get it to fit. Plus I had to make modifications to the lower grill brace to clear the new radiator since it protrudes into the space in front of the mount.

In addition, I had to massage the inner fender on the PS to clear my exhaust manifold since the engine is offset to that side.

Also, I had to modify the piece that formerly supported the big horns since I moved the radiator forward. All in all, it turned out pretty nice and I now have a front end that seems to fit pretty well. I still have to install the hood and may have to add a spacer under the radiator mount but that's simple enough.

 

Looks like it was fun,lol. my problem is all that stuff on the inside of the engine bay was already stripped out of mine, some is useable while other stuff has rust out real bad, plus I'm not sure if I have all the parts. Your plymouth is looking real nice.

 

Oh Rock, I know what you've gone through with the re-assembly! I can recall spending a whole afternoon doing it.....I was a little concerned when I saw your first pictures of the mounting of the radiator positioned in front of the radiator frame that things may not work out. But it looks like you've solved it all! Well done. Thank you for the in depth explainations, looking great!