that whole article was posted in a thread here, don't know what to put in search where it was not the main topic of the thread.
Since this is becoming another great Mopar swap thread, here is a photobucket link to a bunch of 40's mopar frame info and one Dakota... http://s293.photobucket.com/albums/mm49/rodstrace/OLD%20CHRY/
Nice work Rock! This should at least take some of the lateral movement out of the mounts. Certainly a lot better than before. Maybe you can box a bit of the vertical as well, this should finish it right off.
I did brace the vertical with the gusset. The motor mount ties everything at the top together. I'll take a look once I place the motor AGAIN and see if there is room for improvement but I think it's overkill, Eric.
Thanks for your help, guys! Now, if my used parts guy would just get off his duff and get me those drive train parts I need............. He promised to do so next week. We'll see. Meanwhile, I've got plenty of wiring to do, plus I need to figure out my radiator situation.
On my '47 Dodge I used a radiator (GM?) that had cross bars on the front & bolted then to the panels that are in front, either side, of the radiator to funnel air through it if it was in the OEM location.
On my radiator, I ended up making a custom core support that picks up a standard GM style crossflow aluminum Ron Davis radiator. I had always had problems with boarderline overheating issues because of not enough capacity in the stock location. This let me use the whole space side for side, and almost doubled the capacity, and cured most my heating ills. And trust me, a 400 horse, aluminum headed, air conditioned, hot rod is not an easy thing to keep cool on a 115 degree day! It would be very hard to take pictures of it, because everything is tucked away, but I can do a rough drawing for you and scan it if you would like.
On my radiator, I ended up making a custom core support that picks up a standard GM style crossflow aluminum Ron Davis radiator. I had always had problems with boarderline overheating issues because of not enough capacity in the stock location. This let me use the whole space side for side, and almost doubled the capacity, and cured most my heating ills. And trust me, a 400 horse, aluminum headed, air conditioned, hot rod is not an easy thing to keep cool on a 115 degree day! It would be very hard to take pictures of it, because everything is tucked away, but I can do a rough drawing for you and scan it if you would like.
I'm looking at a radiator for a Model T. I think I can get it far enough forward without any major mods and I think it will do the job. The price is right. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190424316159&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT
I'm looking at a radiator for a Model T. I think I can get it far enough forward without any major mods and I think it will do the job. The price is right. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0424316159&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT
I put the front end back on to check for fit. I had to cut the battery tray off and was thinking I'd fill that part in. After looking at it, I may have to relocate the alternator to that side and use that boxed in area for it. Everything else clears the fenders easily. The lower panels will need to be trimmed a little, especially on the PS since the engine is offset to that side but I think I will be able to use most of it. My parts guy is suppose to have my ******, rear axle, etc. next week. Lots to do. The fifth picture shows a straight edge across my radiator support. I'm buying a Model T aluminum radiator to fit in there. Its dimensions will allow me to move it forward some and I am planning to use an electric fan.
More engine compartment detailing. I was able to use the lower portion of the fenders with only some slight t******* to clear my motor mount gussets and cutting one egg shaped hole on the p***enger side. I also had to do a little t******* on the motor mount . Also, I replumbed the brake lines.
ARRRGGGHHH! It was going to smoothly. I put the engine back in this afternoon and hung the alternator on it. BIG problem. About a third of the alternator hangs over the lower inner fender. In the pictures, it's about where it's supposed to be when tensioned. It then swings downward to give you slack. There is another hole in the head that is located 1 3/8" closer to the crank and I can make a bracket to move it inward by that much but I won't be able to avoid cutting the inner fender. I was hoping to mount it on the driver's side but the head extends forward further than the p***enger side and there is not enough room to mount the alternator and get the sheaves to line up. I could make a bracket that would allow me to rotate the alternator up higher but then I give up wrap on the water pump pulley. What is the minimum recommended amount of wrap I need to drive the water pump? Thanks Rock
Not answering your "wrap" question because I don't know... but I'd guess 1/3 of a circle. Just a guess mind you. Can you find a smaller diameter alternator? That one looks big to me... check ebay for "denso alternator" perhaps? The other alternative is to run one more belt, get a dual-groove (or 3-groove) pulley, and move the alternator forward accordingly.
Do you have room to move the alternator closer to the water pump with it clearing the head/vave covers? I don't think you'll have an issue with belt wrap. It's not like you're building a track car that will see extended high RPMs.
take off the lower alt adj bracket and rotate the alt to about the 12 oclock position or maybe 1 oclock(you will have to move the dipstick tube around a little,Dont brake it off) so the alt is facing straight up then just re bend the alt adj braket and mount it to the very top water pump bolt and you can even use the same belt I have done this many times and it works just fine, but if you run a stock mopar 7 blade fan it will squeak when you shut off the engine, that fan is pretty heavy and does not want to stop so fast. Ron....
Way to go, Ron! I had to clearance the upper inner fender on mine (magnum w/serp) I figured it was the car's way of telling me I needed to learn to make a clearance bubble.
This is the line of thinking that I was taking. Since I'm going to run an electric fan, I guess I should be fine. Right?
I haven't run inner fenderwells in mine for about five years now. I built some braces that steady the core support I built, and steady the fenders. But that said, the suggestion above about rotating your alternator until the adjustment is 12 o'clock down is how I have mine set up. I would show you mine, but I have an A/C setup on it as well, so it wouldn't be applicable. My alt tensions off of one of the water pump bolts, with a sleeve and right and left 3/8" hiems.
running that way I have never had any charging or water pump problems, I have been doing it that way for about 30 years now, just the annoying squeak from the fan when turned off, If your going with electric it should work great Ron...
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