You might think about a 392; that's a 3.85" stroker crank with stock-length 351W rods and 302 pistons. You can still make 500 hp with one of these, and the cranks can be had for about $400. Better rod angle, the motor will last longer....
Why start and over bore or stroke a marginal block as an outcome? I'm standardized on 390 FE blocks and can get a 445" CI stroker kit already balanced for the $2000 price range. All you'd need is the block. Edelbrock, Survival MS, Blue Thunder and Dove heads and original heads are available at a reasonable price and intakes are plentiful and not as Friggen Expensive FE as people say. Believe me I've bought a lot of FE parts at below SBC costs this last year because everyone thinks that putting a torque monster FE costs too much. Thanks guys I'll keep buying the parts. I'm putting one into my 65 Comet Ht and another into my 31 A roadster and a few others. Movin/on
a friend of mine built these at his mustang shop with good results and felt the same way about this setup lasting longer.
Anthony that site you sent me to has been moved sure Would have liked to seen them internals but I bet I can find them again Thanks believe me I've been taking notes and looking thing up and like the MAN said your never to old to learn
This is one of the most accurate responses. ^^^^ Very accurate, and in a streetrod, you will loose more power because of not being able to hook up the rear wheels with the pavement. Then don't think.... Your info is wrong, regarding being any better. The blocks are some of the strongest. Its kinda like comparing Chevy 010 blocks to a 1990 350 made in mexico. I will also further this by saying with real hands on experience that the cranks used in the mid nineties 351 will hold up to 750 hp in a drag racing envirement.
when back and checked the site. the larger inch motors are recommended for aftermarket blocks. lot of good info there
All due respect to your "street car" requirement... If you are going to go with the 427 rather than a 408 or even a 418 then my recommendation is to go to an aftermarket block such as a Dart product. They are designed for high end abuse and to open up the sizes well into the stratosphere... but they are costly. By the time you're done with the purchase, prep and machining you will likely have $3,000 invested. But do the math. Even for basic street use... what will it cost for you purchase a factory block, prep and machine it to take 427 cu inches ?? I think you'll be surprised how fast it adds up. The benefit really becomes peace of mind. I built my Dart based SBC so I would surprised it broke rather surprised it didn't. Of course a used Dart SBF block will be cheaper and unlike used factory blocks, they generally are in good shape and worth looking at.
Here is some advise----I will charge what its worth For a street friendly stroked Windsor, a stock block of any year will be wonderful. I have always felt that a pre-75 351 block is the best, but any year will support tons or power. Buy a cast crankshaft, I-beam rods, and a set of Hypo pistons and go from there. You will have to try very hard "NOT" to make 450 horsepower with any decent cylinder head. Do not but a forged anything unless its rods-----and do not buy H-beams. I keep early Windsor blocks on hand, so let me know if you need one. Another option is the 393 using a stock 351 rod. This allows you to use a commonly available 302 pin height piston and a nice affordable crankshaft. http://www.rpmmachine.com/ford-351w-396-stroker.shtml Just dont get caught up in forged this and forged that-----and remember that your nice 1200.00 forged crank is hidden in oil and iron , so Mr. 350 Corvette engine guy who has AFR carved into his silver painted Camel **** heads will never know the difference.
Rod ratio don't mean ****. Don't fall into that trap. Too much importance is put on it. Build a 408 or a 418 in a factory block and have tons of power. There is no real discernible difference between factory engine blocks other than the shorter '69 deck height and the addition of roller cam in 'mid/late '93.
You guys up in Michigan.... I took my fox body to Milan. what a great bunch of people. My eye browse spent most of the time up in my hairline..... It was a street car shoot out. It looked more like hotwheels came to life. Incredible times.
The difference between the 70's and the truck 90's block is not only strength but also the roller cam block! Why mess with the early block and using zinc additives? Roller=modern oil!
Thanks People and I really mean it.I will post some pic as soon as I can get started due to age and health I can't take that 110* heat anymore.Just got my Car out of the Fab Shop and Damn She looks good.I ask on the HAMB not to long ago about Exhaust and took the advice I was given 2 1/2" stainless steel all the way out the rear with Flowmaster 40s and a X pipe haven't got to hear it yet but it sure looks good also Again Thanks
We have a machined 351 roller cam motor sitting in the shop that came out of a Ford truck, it is a 94 block. It will be getting some stroker kit, just not sure which one yet. Going into a Fox Mustang. As mentioned, the advantage to the later blocks is they are already set up for roller cams. Don
Hey Don, a little known secret for freeing up even more HP and TQ on those 351 w's.... They make a roller bearing kit for the cam.... A little machining is required for them to fit in the cam bearing spot.... It is used on the 460's as well when they are stroked..... It really makes a difference.... Thought I would throw it out incase you didn't know....
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