429/460 or fe

When it's cold it cranks fast.

 

If it was flooding or fuel percolation, it wouldn't crank slow. Thats why I asked about the cranking speed.

 

So it sounds more like timing issue?

 

Timing, iffy ground/wiring, or a starter problem would be what I would look at.

 

Ok today I just noticed something new. The shifter is picky about it's position to start or not and twice today when it started to crank slow I jiggled the shifter and it spun faster. Mean anything?

 

Try starting it hot with a remote push****on switch at the solenoid next to the battery, byp***ing the neutral safety switch (make sure it's in park and set the brake) and the start position of the ignition switch, and see if it spins normally. Hook your switch to the positive lug on the solenoid where the battery cable attaches, to the small terminal right next to it (pull the connector off the lug), which is the one that energizes the solenoid, turn the ignition switch on, and use the remote- better? If so, you have a problem in one of the switches or wiring

 

Definatly got a neutral safety switch problem. MAKE SURE that your ride is in park if you by p*** it.

 

i love my 429 in my 69 merc, the pig hauls a##, my 67 f100 had a 352 2bbl and headers great engine plenty of low end torque, i pulled the 52 due to a head prob and dropped in a 390 with a performer intake and 600 ebrock with headers that was a stump puller only prob i ran into was rocker tick due to worn shafts finaly found some good shafts and all was good. stock 360 is a turd imho, father in laws 71 was a 360 ran hot hard starting lousey on fuel just a turd. stick with the fe if you want to pull it and put in a 351 you might as well put a 260 in it cause it will **** either way.

 

"Ok today I just noticed something new. The shifter is picky about it's position to start or not and twice today when it started to crank slow I jiggled the shifter and it spun faster. Mean anything?"

Yup. You have probably found the problem.

 

well since i have the exhuast leaks fixed im just going to clean it up and take it to the wedding like it is. after it i will pull the intake, fix the threads, do some cleaning and painting and new water pump and fuel pump and check the lifters. i will be swapping to the larger dizzy cap and new wires and new plugs.

 

I would think hard about fixing your issue BEFORE the wedding.Your wife to be will be ENRAGED if the wiring/neutral safety switch waits until you are leaving the church to finally kack completely. Married man here, trust me on this.
"its ok dear, I just gotta wiggle the shifter a little...Thats funny, it worked yesterday"

 

I think some of it may be in the adjustment in the shifter. They had a home made linkage.

 

What's wrong with the 351?

 

Nothing, they just don't belong in those old gun boats.

 

I agree. But much cheaper

 

A Windsor with fe valve covers= older look cheaper price better economy

 

Where did you get the "much cheaper" idea? In the first place you have to change the trans too, and 390's just don't cost that much to rebuild, it's a VERY common engine with readily available parts. You been listening to those Chebbie guys again?

 

Just my two cents, that's like a chick with a ****. Sorry to be an ***.

I just got a 390 block for free that I'm going to slowly build. I also got a low mile, that I saw run and drive, 352 with an edelbrock carb, performer manifold, two sets of headers and a three speed for 300 bucks. Deals are out there man, a galaxie needs an FE.

 

O need to find those deals. I've got a c4 for a small block. Everything I have found so far wants at least 509 for a motor that needs rebuilt. I'm just hoping the rings and bearings are ok because I'm going through the top end soon since I gotta pull the intake I'm replacing a few parts and gaskets.

 

Well next week I got a mechanic friend coming to diagnose what's wrong and hopefully I don't have to tear the motor down

 

Ok so pulled a lifter and the bottom of the pushrod still is black and the lifters look brand new. No swirls or marks. Question is, it has adjustable rockers and hyd lifters but the rockets are adjusted as far as they will go. With adjustables on hyd lifters, do they take the same pushrod?

 

Anyone have any clue?

 

The correct FE pushrod will have a ball on the bottom end toward the lifter and a cup on the top end that the rocker arm adjusting screw (ball) fits into. The 'book' or computer jockey at the parts store application is for a '66 Galaxie with a 427. All solid lifter FEs that do not use the hollow shell light weight lifters use the same pushrod. Stock length is 9.180" from the center of the cup to the center of the ball or about 9.370" over-all length. You can get these in over and undersize (length) to dial in valvetrain geometry if needed.

The adjusters should not be adjusted all the way down. If you've got the intake off then you can adjust lifter preload to about .015" using a wire type feeler gauge - some people like more pre-load if they aren't going to rev the snot out of the motor. .....otherwise carefully tighten the adjuster until you've have zero lash on the push rod then go an additional 1/4 turn. If you've never adjusted lifters before look up the procedure...there are several methods you can use to make sure the cam/lifters are in the correct position for making a proper rocker arm adjustment.

 

How do I know the correct size I need?

 

Just go by what BigChief said then adjust the 1/4 turn.

You must already have the Ball & Cup pushrods for the ajustable rockers otherwise there wouldn't be anyway for the rockers to hold the pushrods stable.

 

Yea that's what they are. I will have to check it out. Got a couple that are clicking a little.

 

I have a starting problem as well. Have FE 429 in my 56 F-100 and it ran fine/started fine until recently, then started missing like crazy and now it will not fire at all. Truck has been stored for 2 years but I started it every month until it started to play up. I have replaced fuel, fuel filter, new 4brl carb etc. No luck. If I pull plugs they are wet so fuel is getting in but no spark ?? Next I will find someone to help check the dissy and coil out for me. Dont know what else to do ???

 

Has many out there done the swap?

 

I have played with fe's since they came out in 1958. Don't have one at this time, but they are habit forming and this threasd has got me thinking. In 1959 I bought a hipo 352 with three on the tree, (no 4 speed) 2 dr. post. That car spanked, stayed with and beat some later year 390's and 4 speeds, then a 62-406, 63 406, 64 427, all sedans, then put fe's in 53-56 f100's, fairlanes, falcons, me and the boys could squeeze em into anything. You can build that 390 of yours stock or stroked, either way, keep it and enjoy it. I have had faster cars with stroked small block fords, but beleive me, nothing sounds like a fe when built with solid lifters, gear drive and tri-power. I only had sticks, so I can't comment on slush boxes.. Good luck in whatever path you go.