I was wondering about TH400s and if there was a AOD that does not need computer control to go on a possible engine for my 62' C10. I'm wanting a big block, just because. So there. Any help on my options would be appreciated.
700r4 with b&m guts, manual lockup conversion. just needs a cable set just right and works well, or add a gear vendors to a th400
What about bolt patterns? Can I get a 700R4 and swap bellhousings if necessary? I know zilch about them.
I believe SBC & BBC all have the same bellhousing pattern, so a 700 should just bolt right up to the big block. Someone correct me if I'm wrong....
No shit? Wow. Sorry, I'm used to the difference between SBF and BBF. Hell, I can get a rebuilt one for cheap, cheaper than buying a core and rebuilding myself. Hmmmmm. Any differences in input shafts or tail housings I need to watch for?
Even the LS1s can still use the standard bolt pattern bellhousing. I have a Th400 with a 'brake on the back of the LS1 in my '98 Z. Works fine.
Yes....A turbo350 is the same as the Powerglide or 3 speed standard that is in your truck.......Turbo400 is longer than a t350, and has a larger output spline. The 700r is also longer than a t350, I think the output is the same though.
T350s have different length tail shafts. The longer one, 9" if I remember correctly, makes a 350 the same length as a 700. That's what was in my Studebaker when I switched to a 700R4, and it bolted in. A word of warning........if you don't know EXACTLY what you are doing with the TV cable, have a professional set it for you. If you don't, very shortly after you start driving it, you will be on here bitching about your burnt up 700R4.
What about the flywheel? Can I use a 168 tooth flywheel? What will join the two is a better question.
Like said already, a 700R4 is bolt-on. Your 168 tooth flywheel will work fine. 700R4 use the same torque converter bolt pattern as the Turbo 350/400 have (At least the large diam converters such as a trubo 400 trans has). Your flywheel may even have both large and small patterns on it. My 38 has exactly the set-up you are looking into, a 454 with a 700R4. The late 80's to 91 (maybe 92) 700R4 have the hydraulic valve body and the factory improvements, with a mechanical speedo connection.
If you build a high power engine, the 700R4 is kind of marginal. The 4L80E is basically a factory turbo 400 with OD, but they require a computer to operate. The gear vendors can survive with any power you would run on the street. I broke one 700R4 already and always have concern about the durability of the 700R4 in my 38.
I agree with the weak 700R4 statement. I know that there are kits out there to be able to run a 4L80 with out a computer, but I think it requires it to be manually shifted. I was thinking Transgo made the kit. A manual valve body is no big deal, I have one in my Z28, and drove it daily, and will even after the new motor goes in. I think the kit for the 4L80 also allows you to lock up the converter, you just wire up a toggle switch.
About flywheels....If building a 454, remember that they are externally balanced.......different flywheel than a 396/427.
A 400 HP 454 will be hard to build, be careful not to put on any aftermarket or performance parts, you will have to search out the smallest port heads with small valves and lowest profile most restrictive pickup intake, with small cast iron exhaust manifolds, three mufflers and probably use a Q jet from a 305.....lol. Even then you will make enough torque to dust a 700R4. Stock 70s 454s with 270hp on the air cleaner put out closer to 400 than 270. That "advertised" 270 was "corrected" horsepower to meet the laws of the day and satisfy the tree huggers. Even the 465 hp LS6/7 put out well over 500 on a dyno I think they must have done the testing for the advertised HP at 3500rpm with a tight motor in Denver on a hot suumer afternoon.
I can't believe the only way an AOD could live behind a 454 is to have a light foot. Which pieces are prone to breaking?
Its all about how its built. Hell, the Buick guys build 455's backed by beefed up 2004Rs, so a well built 700R4 should handle a 454 just fine.
The 700R4 "Shifts" built for me is supposed to be good to 600 or so HP. Check with him. There's been a lot of improvements in internals for them. Mine's going behind a blown 406 that I hope to get low 10's out of. Mutt
Yep , Should do it easy, I would probably go with RV cam, Performer inlet and 750Vs Holley and a set of good headers . What do you have to pay for a pull out 454 in the US ? We need a couple of rebuilders for our budget SuperGas Altered, but importers here want way too much.
Having driven a big block powered mid 60s suburban for several years....I recommend a TH400 and 3.08 gears out back. A stock 400 trans will hold up fine in a 454 powered pickup, while a 700 will have to be modified, and set up correctly, and still might go out at any time. Also how's the torsion bar crossmember clearance back there? be sure to look it over....
I'm adding a ditto to what squirrel wrote. I have a mid 80's dually with a 454 and 4:10 gears. The motor is a mild low compression peanut port head rebuild that makes mountains of torque. The 4:10 gearing is too much for me, I prefer to run the motor at 2000 rpm on the freeway which is about 50-55mph. Needless to say I'm jonesing for some 3:55 gears in the front and rear dana 60's. Low to mid 3:00 gears and a 454 will work well in your ride, and it's far cheaper than putting together a OD trans to work with a torquey motor.
A "properly" built 700R4 will take a hell of a beating. We have one in a 36 Ford w/ a blown 427, another one in a 40 willys w/ a blown 392 hemi & they have been running them for a long time. 84-88 are the best years to use, mostly because its real easy to do the hydraulic lock up(No wiring needed) & they have the larger input shafts.FWIW,I just put a 700 in my own A coupe w/ a hemi. Proper set up is the real secret. Dave
Thank you, I think I will go with the 700, seems like they are even cheaper than th400s. I think I will go with fairly highway like gears in the 3.00 range. WHy? Well I was thinking of actually driving it. I can always drive to a show or outing and tell them I have 4.10s in there....musch easier than paying the gas bill, besides, it will still haul ass.
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