Does anybody know if there is a kit to locate the rear end on a 47-53 chevy PU correctly without changing the springs? Who makes it?
ChevyDuty has a kit: ChevyDuty See description and part # below: (1947-54) Rear Axle Conversion Kit Our conversion kit allows you to update your existing axle to any 3-inch diameter rear end. Welding is required. This kit also contains provisions for modern shock absorber mounting. Part # 93-311 Price Qty $139.95
One thing I've noticed, and it only really applies if you are lowering it drastically, is that the lower you go, the further forward the rear-end ends up... makes the wheels not look centered in the wheel opening... (not too big of a deal if you run skirts...) Maybe a dumb question, but is that what you mean by locating 'correctly'..?? does that kit fix that problem by changing where the locating 'pin' fits..? I wonder if the single-leaf rear lowering springs compensate for that as well..? I have the stock springs, but removed a few of them, and also 4" blocks... I'm planning on running skirts, but I'd like the wheels to be more centered in case I don't... maybe the single leafs are my answer..??
ok, with a torque tube rear, the pads sit about 2-3" forward of where the centerline of the axle is. stock, the wheels are fairly centered in the wheelwells but when you go to an open driveline, the wheels are way too ******** forward(in the well) you guys with the chevies know what i'm talking about, right? i figgured there'd be somebody making a kit to correct that problem by now... ya know, a quick, easy way so i don't have to redo the rear springs...
Just roll that rear end over and centerpunch a mark 1-1/2"forwards of the center hole thats already there and drill a 1/2" hole and re -install.[unless you mean torque tube] then your on your own....
that would explain the two different holes drilled in the kit that Chevy Duty offers... makes sense to me... but I don't think it would correct it enough for a severely lowered truck like mine, I'm on the bumpstops as it is... I'm curious if the single-leaf springs would have the pin a bit further back or not to help 'correct' the centering...
When Raven and I swapped our trucks to open driveline (A 53 and a 54) We used springs and brackets he picked up from a place that builds trailers, I think it was like $10 or $20 total per truck. I reused the shock mounts that were on my torque tube. Look for a place local that builds car haulers and custom boat trailers and stuff, I would't go the kit route. Also those trucks rear wheels aren't centered to start, they are like an inch or two off with the old torque tube, When we did mine we just flipped the springs around (had to grind one end cause one's bigger than the other) and it put the axle just a hair forward but it looks much better than before. ****O
also,if ya can't find spring perches when ya do a swap, just go to a mopar dealer & ask for part number P4120074, last pair I got was $15........joe
snaky6, that's a damn good pic, just what i need! this truck isn't going to be lowered just subframed and V-8'd but the rear is getting changed out. the guy wants to take it fishing(that **** stresses me out) and stuff so slammin' is out of the question...
I converted my '52 to open drive, and enclountered the same problem when keeping the stock springs. Using a '57 truck driveshaft, it puts the axle in this position. It could use to go back another inch to be exactly centered in the wheelwell, but that would mean extending the driveshaft one inch, and I didn't want to spend the money right now... I wrote an article with pix on my website that may be helpful to some... here I wrote an article with pix on my website here
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