COE '47 Loadmaster build thread

You can get a column saver kit and shorter your column as much as needed.

 

Picked up some parts and made some progress today. Found a local guy with a stash of 9 or 10 ADs. No COEs but did have 2 panels and 4 or 5 '54/'55 models. Anyway picked up a column, decent wheel and a stainless trim piece. Shortened and installed the column and completed the majority of the fab work on the brake system. Next I need to rotate the rack and pinion and do the final hook up of the steering.
Rob

 

Nice work... I'm really impressed with your brake setup and can appreciate the fab work. I stole mine from a Chevy cube van. I'd like to hear details on rotating the steering rack. I looked at that option, but it didn't seem feasible on my Dodge 1500 ch***is. I ended up with Isuzu Rodeo steering parts to point the steering column back at the rack.

 

OK Wetskier here's a bit on how I'm doing the rack: To start with I welded a position reference to the frame. In my case I used some angle iron with one end ****ed on a step on the rack tube and a couple of hose clamps. By doing it this way I could turn the rack but still maintain the correct position for alignment issues. Next I removed the mounting bolts, loosened the hose clamps and rotated the rack. In my case I ran into 2 minor issues: 1. The cap bolt on the rack would hit the frame cross member. 2. The hose would hit the cross member. Used a hole saw to solve #1 and a hot wrench and a big hammer to solve #2. After I had enough rotation, I just started building up a new mount for the rack (3/16 plate). If you do this type of work I recommend a profile gauge. It really helps when making templates. I first make cardboard templates. I have also found that Natural Lite 12 packs make the best template materiel. Sometimes I have friends over and we work on building up template stock. From there I go from cardboard to steel and weld it all up.

 

very nice. How are you replicating the strength afforded from the factory setup where the bolts went all the way thru the crossmember?

 

Looks strong enough to me. Nice job

 

I'm not to concerned about the cross member support. I think they went through the cross member more for build convenience then strength. I've had a few cars where the bolts don't go through. In this case the tubes which the bolts p*** through do not go through the rack so the weakest point would actually be the bolt itself. I will be using grade 8 bolts.

 

That's a very good point about the bolts as the weakest point... Thanks for the pics and explanation. It's some very nice work.

 

Did a little more work on the steering, I still need to build the right side rack support (ran out of steel) but I did hook up a U joint and all looks good. I also added a high tech turn signal switch. I'm trying to keep the interior simple with not a lot of bells and whistles showing.
Rob

 

Do you know if that rack is used on heavier pickups like the 1 ton? I am putting a ***mins and 9 speed in my Dodge and that is probably double the weight of a 5.3/4L60E (app 1750lbs) and it will be as far forward as I can fit it. Your setup looks pretty easy to hook up compared to some others I have been looking at but I would hate to overstress a rack. Might be over thinking it.

Looks good

 

I know that a 2003 chevy 1-ton uses a steering box as compared to ron's 2003 chevy 1/2-ton uses a rack. Maybe the rack isn't strong enough for the heavy duty trucks.

 

I've asked this question about rack strength of all the aftermarket steering people, and they all get big eyes and say nothing they know of is going to live with more weight on the front axle. It was suggested by the guys at Unisteer that Toyota or Nissan might have the strongest rack in the industry, but it still wouldn't be strong enough for a diesel in the front of a cab-over.
I gave up on the idea and stayed with a conventional box that I had. (IH medium duty)

 

That is good to know, looks like it will get a normal box on it.

 

As far as I know, anything above 1/2 ton on Chevrolet's use a conventional box. I think it really comes down to how much stress can a rack handle. A 3/4 ton with the a 5.3 and 2WD should be very close to a 1/2 ton. Now a 3/4 ton 4WD with large mudder tires, an 8 liter engine and 4l80 trans would be be much harder on a rack. Here's an option...use 2 racks, 1 front steer and 1 rear steer, cross the lines for the PS and your set When you go to the alignment shop just tell him it came that way from the factory.

 

Rather than front steer/rear steer, stack them, one above/one below the steering arms

 

I did a little work on the rear of the cab. I bent and welded in place a brace for across the rear, I also cut the opening above the engine a little higher for clearance. Later I test fit the the radiator and modified the PS/Alt. mounting bracket to remove the Alt. mount.
Rob

 

Built a cover for the rear opening after boxing the sides.
Rob

 

Been working on the cooling system a little. I will be using Ford Taurus cooling fans. I built a shroud and a mount for between the frame rails. I will also be able to reuse the donor radiator hoses after clipping them a little.
Rob

 

A little more progress on the cooling system. I am reusing the overflow tank from the donor. I welded a couple of pieces of 1/2" tube to the fire wall and mounted the tank there. I also ran the lines back to the engine and reused the original system as far as the tank is concerned. for the donor it uses the overflow tank as a pressurized unit with a 16# cap on it. The idea here is to be able to check the fluids under the hood with the exception on the oil and trans fluid which will be accessed behind the cab. I will build a cover for the brake linkage later. I remounted the front sheet metal and will start to work out the support for that.
Rob

 

I've always like the taurus fans and plan on running the same dual setup. Have you actually run both yet? I'm worried the amperage they need would require an exceptionally high output altenator

 

I've tested both the Taurus and Lincoln mark8 fans. Amp draw is just about the same,75-80 amps at start up and then run at 30-35 amps. I went with the Lincoln for the fit in my early Bronco. It cools like a mother!

 

Yes and no, I've run them as far as testing goes to insure they work but have not checked them for current draw. Thanks for the info Fuzzy. I plan on running them at 1/2 speed at first then full speed if the temperature continues to rise.

 

How do you plan to control the speed, reduced voltage by resistor in series?

 

Morning Steve, I will control the speed using 3 relays and 2 control outputs from the ECU. When I have the ECU re-flashed I can set the on/off temperatures for both high and low speed. Basically using the relays I will be using a series circuit for low speed and a parallel circuit for high speed. I wish I had come up with the idea but GM started doing it years ago on the F-bodies. I found a lot of good info on how to wire it on http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602292
Rob

 

Hi Rob your build could not of come at a better time. My son and I just started a 54 COE for him. we will be watching your build very very close. As you are doing a lot of what we have planned out in our heads. Keep up the nice work and thank you for taking the time for the build post.

johnny

 

Your welcome Johnny, If you want more details on certain parts just let me know, I have many pictures which I don't post.
Progress, progress, I spent the better part of this week end setting up the front sheet metal. I was able to trim the lower parts of the inner fender wells and reuse some of the grill mount. I built a cross brace which will mount to the cross brace now added to the front of the frame. Speaking of the frame, I boxed the frame horns and added some extensions for a bumper mount. After all that was complete I set the front sheet metal back on and set all the alignments. Over all good progress for a couple of days. It's starting to look like a truck again.




Rob

 

She's lookin' killer, Rob!

 

Thanks, OK, so I started the wiring. This is the first LS style conversion I've done so there's a bit of a learning curve to deal with but all in all it's going good. I decided to mount the electronics behind the seat so I built a 14"X 24" panel and mounted all my stuff (I hope) on it . I'm using a combination of a Painless Universal trunk mount harness and the donor (2003 Silverado) I will also incorporate the electronic shifter I built while in China but will need to do that on a separate panel.
Rob
Rob

 

Very nice and neat work . You're making great progress.
Blue

 

More progress, I finished the majority of the engine wiring. I still need to build a mount for the alternator and an intake pipe for the MAF sensor so those are not finished. Not anything special looking on the engine wiring but that was the intent. I checked my records and I have 66 hours in the wiring so far not counting the electric shifter project. The sad thing is I still need to do the dash and the whole ch***is. I also built the exhaust this morning. I used as much of the donor as I could and only ended up with $13.00 total in the exhaust, probably the cheapest thing I'll do on the whole build. Finished the rack and pinion mount.
Rob