Farmer...Thanks for the compliment that means alot coming from you! Eli The engine is a 70's also...Don't rememeber the exact date!
Lost it in a move somewhere I guess, and the one from the 283 is only a single groove, and the 4 bolt holes dont line up either. I could make it work with some shims if I had to but I'd like a double groove!
Not a problem really, there are loads of junkyard cars and C-10s with double groove pulleys along with brackets for your alternator. Ought to be a piece of cake to find one.
I have a 47 coupe we chopped a year back. The thread can be found still if you are interested in seeing how it looks.
Wow I checked it that is a very nice chop! I thought about chopping this one but since its a family heirloom I don't want to be the one who cut the roof for eternity! It would be a perfect canidate since the fenders are already welded to the body though! I would love to see some more pics of that car...Are you still working on it? What drivetrain are you runnin?
Ok for the sake of getting the car on the road I'm going to run the ole, ugly alternator bracket for now. Of course I lost half of the spacers, and brackets so I had to dig back into the boxes of junk you can never throw away and find a few pieces to cut down and weld together to make the spacers. I'm going to make a custom bracket eventually. I still need a double groove pulley, I'm gonna hit up some buddy's and make sure no one has one laying around first then I guess I'll call up Jeg's. I really didn't want a chrome one but I also don't want to waste a week looking through junk yards! I got the starter on and wired, bolted up the exhaust, fished a few wires, and a few misc. odds and ends. I'll be adding fluids in the next day or so and mocking up the radiator and hoses, I'd also like to make a fan shroud but we'll see if I get time (I know it would be worth it). I still haven't re-visited the shifter final adjustment either. The end is near! Ok the begining is near!
Well managed to find a buddy with a double groove pulley, but of course the law of all things hot rodding meant after 3 trips to the parts store for belts I have one that will barelly fit! So tomorrow I'll get one on there and move on to finding a fan spacer that will fit the bolt pattern on the water pump. After mocking up the radiator I decided I could fit about a 1-1/2" spacer, I will have to use a spacer or the fan will hit the alternator and the crank pulley. I need to run the last bits of my fuel line, and mount my filter, regulator, and pressure gage. Then mount and wire my coil. Mount my Transmission dip stick. After that I'll need to find/build a lower radiator hose, and add fluids! I think I have decided to glass bead my finned valve covers and black out between the fins so I need to get that done too! I'm having some OT car trouble with my wifes daily so I'm not sure how but I really want to have this thing running by the begining of next week!
Got the fuel pressure regulator and guage mounted. I've got to find a better fuel filter this week! Made a few ng brackets with rubber bushings to hold everything steady with out being too rigid! Next I'm gonna mount the coil on the inside of the fire wall. I've still got to get a lower radiator hose figured out, mount the trans dip stick, trans cooler, and get the vavle covers glass beaded.
Got a fan spacer today, but Its about 2 inches and I'm gonn have about 3/4" cut off it tomorrow. I managed to get about 6 and a half quarts of ATF in the trans, and got the shifter dialed in (I think). I've got to figure out how to wire in the neutral safety switch though! I managed to find some stainless fastners today at Fastenal with my work discount they were relatively affordable, so I got the removable fender panels all mounted up. Painted the brake booster, and cleaned up some little stuff. I'll need to get those valve covers glass beaded tomorrow so I can get them blacked out and sealed up. I started to pull the headlight wires out so I can replace them, and I'm now pretty much certain that every wire from the guages foreward is yellow! That should be fun!Was that switched wire yellow, or...yellow? Oh...yep...Its the yellow one! Hard to see but the the stainless button cap bolts worked out pretty good! Thats not a political statement, its just a cool old liscense plate that makes a great heater block off plate! Were getting really close!
I'm trying to find a distributor shaft so I can prime the motor. I've got all the vital fluids in the block. The lower radiator was a raging pain in the ass, so was the water pump pulley situation, I had to make a run to pep boys and pick up another double groove pulley, and after some doing I got it all lined up...I guess after all this I learned why I should have test fit all the accessories before I dropped the engine! I'm planning on cutting a groove in the old valve covers so I can adjust the valves while its running. I'm hopping to get it started after work tomorrow, but I still don't have the distributor shaft! I got the valve covers blacked out today, they came out ok.
Got the engine started, valve adjusted, and set the timing. We set the timing at 8 degrees before TDC per my trusty motors guide book, and now it has a nasty stumble when you crack the throttle. Other than the timing issue I'm pretty pumped, I dropped the distributor right on the first try, adjusted the valves on my own for the first time(then let my dad double check my work)! I idled at 150 degrees with right around 50 pounds of oil pressure. I still need to get a couple twist on oil caps and decide if I need a PCV valve or not. I've heard differing opinions so feel free to pitch in! I'll get some ATF tomorrow and get some other stuff buttoned up and hopefully take it out for a spin! Best use of crappy old aluminum valve covers yet! My Dad and my son Chase adjusting the valves!
You need a PCV valve. Excavates blow by from crankcase which is mostly gas/ air mix. Makes your oil last longer, helps gas mileage. Easy enough to do, too. Need a vent of some kind and a PCV valve plumbed to the carb base. Both can be visible or hidden, check around for threads on drilling intake manifold for PCV valve if you want to leave no holes in valve covers. Vent could be at oil fill tube. Lots of other options, depends on the look you want & cost.
Thanks builtfer...I've already got holes in the VC so not really a big deal, and there is an available port on the intake T behind my carb, can I use that or do I need to use a port on the carb?
Ok got the PCV valve on adjusted the timming up to around 12 BTDC now it seems better, I'm hoping to drive it tomorrow to add some gas, so we'll see! I've got the transmission going into gear so the ATF level is close, I don't want to overfill it so I'm gonna wait till I warm it up tomorrow to check it again. I found oil caps at the Zone today of course they only had one so I got it and ordered another for tomorrow! I also tried this one and clearly it was not a good choice(because its ugly)! So I've got a PCV valve on now because more people tell me to use one than not use one.
PCV valve pulls vacuum, so where does the air it pulls come in from? Make sure one or both of your valve cover caps are vented. Preferably filtered air; factory pulled air from underside of air cleaner housing.
Its pulling from a T port about an inch from the base of the back of the carb the other side of the T goes to the brake booster. The big ugly cap was vented so i gues ill paint it black for now and put it on the back of the drivers side valve cover. I dont know of another vented cap that I like.
OK went for a nice drive today! I adjusted the Timing a little more by ear in the drive way before I left and I think I may have gone a little too far, because it still wanted to hesitate (but in a different way) when I stabbed the throttle. It ran a little hotter than the 283 did around 200 degrees after about 30 min of idle time and it would drop to around 190 while driving, and back up to 200 at idle after that. I probably ran it about 10 miles or so, and it puked about a quart or so of antifreeze on the floor when I got home. I'm wondering if I had too much antifreeze in it. I had it filled all the way to the top, and now its about an inch low. I only say I think it was too full because this is how it acted before with the 283 if I left it too full. It has a stock Plymouth radiator that was re-cored before I got it, and cleaned when I had the neck filled last winter. The radiator shop guy changed it to a sealed system when I had the neck fixed and he told me to get a 7lb cap. Does any of this make sense? One thing I can say is the car runs like a raped ape! It is running like it never did before! When you crack the throttle in first gear its nothing but white smoke. I'm guessing thats more because of the torque converter than the HP/Torque of the motor. I was told the rear end was a 9" but I can say that it left a wicked 20 foot single black strip at the stop sign down the street? Did they make a one wheel squeal 9"? This pic shows the ugly breather and the PCV valve! Evidence that it left the house at least once! Even with the problems...I'm loving it!
What is that tube out of the back of your valve cover? If that's the PCV valve hose, you need to move the vented cap to the opposite valve cleaner so the PCV evacuates the crankcase, not just the one valve cover.
Ok thanks...that was my plan but for some reason the twist on cap size is different on the driver and the passenger side so it doesn't fit...I'll have to find another one tomorrow!
I was able to take the car out on about a 30 mile round trip to a little cruise in I was putting on at my buddies carry out. It ran around 180 the whole time. I think the timing is alot better now but the carb def. needs tweaked! It was just awesome to get the the car out and drive it! Got to see this 48 Dodge out there and talk about some inspiration! This is a temporary catch can till I can get one made or grab one from Jegs this week. I'm still not sure why its puking when the water isn't even getting to 200 degrees, so after recieving advice here on the HAMB I've decided to add a 180 degree T-stat and a recirculating catch can! I also scored a whole roll of black vinyl at a garage sale yesterday to start experimenting with some interior work!
It's nice that you put a catch can on there but if that is the stock rad it will puke until it reaches the proper level.......and not suck it back in because it is a zero pressure radiator. If you have a different application please disregard.
Frankie, I will be adding a recirculating overflow this week so the water can go back into the tank! The tank was changed to a sealed system when I had the neck fixed this winter. Its running a 7lb cap to keep from building up too much pressure!
Well got an overflow tank set up today, I've got it set up as a recirculating tank. When I drove home last night it was the first time it didn't puke so I may have finally burped enough water out of the system. So now I'v got the tank on it but I really don't want to add more water to the system yet (Just enough to cover the pick up in the overflow). I'm still planning on adding the 180 degree T-stat in the next week or so. I played with the timing till I got it to where it didn't bog down when I cracked the throttle and it wound up set at about 16 degrees before TDC. Doesn't that seem like a lot? It's not deiseling when I shut it off, it doesn't have trouble starting when its hot, so I'll test drive it and see what happens. I noticed that if I covered the carb with both hands and restrict air flow that it still doesn't die! Does this meen I need to adjust the idle mixture screws? I tried to play with them but couldn't get alot of reaction out of the carb so I set it back to where it was and I'll look at it later. Also mounted my self a cup holder before the cruise in last week! A guy has to have his priorities right! Little was not sure why my car was out in the yard? Another shot of the overflow fighting the good fight trying to keep the hot water where it goes!
With all the talk lately of neutral safety switches lately I decided I better wire mine up! If you look closely you will see the main reason for my concern with this, my kids spend more time climbing around the inside of the the car than I do. I'm going to have to find a way to adjust it because it will still start in drive. Reverse, 1, and 2 are working just fine but neutral and D are in the same gate so it looks like I'll have to back it off a little. I found some info about adjust the idle mix on the carb last night so as soon as I get my vacume gage back from my dad I'll try to set that up! I need to look up the fuel pressure for the 600cfm holley and make sure I've got that set properly (6.5psi). Oh and I got some seat belts in the back seat for the lil helpers booster seats!
Well after some work and help from people here on the HAMB I have the carb, and timing much more dialed in. I took it for a quick 10/15 cruise and it ran like a raped ape! I'm still not getting the full 4 barrels and the choke is way out of adjustment so something isn't quite right. But it ran great and I couldn't be happier. I was so satisfied that I felt the need to do something unecessary. I've had this MOROSO battery kill switch hanging on the wall for over 5 years (I bought it for my dads 56 but he couldn't bring him self to cut a hole in that black paint) so I threw it on the firewall and I'll get it wired in when i get a chance to get a few feet of 1 gage cable. I'm going to mount a similair style switch and fuse inside somewhere for the fuel pump cause I can't stand listening to that thing kick on every time I want to test something!
I got under the car last night to replace the fuel filter, inspect some lines near the fuel pump, and check the rear end oil level. The pinion seal has had a slow drip since the day I brought it home and I just haven't taken the time to replace it yet. When I got under there with the rear end jacked up and pulled the plug out it was gushing oil so I'm pretty sure it wasn't low, if fact I think it may have been overfull and maybe thats why the pinion seal leaks, the oil was very dirty too so I'll probably replace it soon! I'm wondering if I should sit it back down on level ground and crack the plug and let it drain to the normal level? Its a 9" I ran the tag ID info last night and it appears to be a late 60's torino with a 3:00 gear ratio, so I think that should be pretty good on the highway, but we'll have to see. Its not posi, so I'll be in the market for a new center section and axles at some point! I also started doing a little cobbling on the trans tunnel to get the shifter opening temporarly(till I can make a nice piece out of steel) sealed up and keep the fumes out of the cabin so the ole lady will go for a ride!
Gonna take the car out to a local show today so I actually washed the car yesterday(Talk about an exercise in futility)! I did manage to get rid of a few of the greasy hand prints from my self, and the majority from my son! I'm also planning on taking my wife with me to the local HAMB gathering next weekend so I'm trying to make the car a little more liveable by then, so I threw together a stereo last night! I'm gonna run it off my phone, or old phone/MP3 player for now but I've got bigger plans for the factory radio down the road! Apparently Chase didn't want to listen to CCR!
The Jalopy Journal
