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48 ford diff sleeve problem

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by brind, Nov 7, 2016.

  1. brind
    Joined: Aug 2, 2016
    Posts: 20

    brind

    Hi all,

    I am building up a 48 ford sedan diff with a winters qc and bolling bros lincoln style drums for my 42 ford jailbar truck.

    I have a problem with pitting where the hub bearing seats. I have bought some replacement sleeves but finding it hard to get the work done.

    Whats the best way to go about it, put it in a lathe or ground down? I have been quoted $830 for grind option or cheaper if i can cut the spring hangers down/off.

    I have a pete and jakes ladder bar set up i can run coilovers or the model A style rear spring.....

    Any help on the matter is greatly appreciated,

    cheers
    Brind

    [​IMG] [​IMG][​IMG]



    Flat out fabricating
     
  2. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,680

    alchemy
    Member

    If you are considering cutting off the spring hangers, take a moment and check the other side of the bearing races. If they are nice, just flip the housings upside down so the previous topside is now the bottom where the bearing rides. No sleeves needed. Add your new hangers and you are ready to go.
     
  3. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,977

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    There are several job shop machine shops in this area with huge old lathes that would probably do each side for less than 100 bucks. The hard part is getting it all set up square in the lathe.
    Have you checked with the old machine shops that deal with farm and industrial equipment rather than machine shops that cater to automotive work?

    I'm wondering if the tubes were bolted together flange to flange if they would run true in a lathe. That would simplify the job times over if it worked. It would let the machine shop treat the tubes as a single axle.
     
  4. At that price they are either trying to screw you or have no idea what they are doing and expecting you to pay for them to learn. I am not sure which scenario is the worst. Be sure to look at alchemy's suggestion in post #2 or look for new rear end bells. Double check to be sure the sleeves are hard, there were some soft ones out there a few years back. If you add your general location to your profile someone might suggest a shop that has done it before or a rear end rebuilder that could point you to the right shop to do the work.

    Charlie Stephens
     
    gas pumper likes this.
  5. AV8 Dave
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 680

    AV8 Dave
    Member

    I had sleeves done on the "A" rearend for my AV8 several years ago by a local automotive machine shop. They used their crankshaft lathe and only charged me 85 dollars for both sides. That said, the spring hangers on the "A" are a lot shorter than the '48 ones you have. And yes, definitely check out alchemy's tip on swapping them side for side. I have seen this mentioned in more than one rearend rebuild article over the years. Would have done it on mine but they were bad on both sides (maybe someone swapped them years ago???). Good luck! Regards, Dave.
     
  6. X38
    Joined: Feb 27, 2005
    Posts: 17,498

    X38
    Member

    Options:
    You could modify the ends to use modern bearings and 9" axles (search here, I'm sure there are threads.) That may or may not upset your brakes plan, depending on exactly what you've already bought.

    You can use P&J hangers for a spring behind the axle if to want to cut the existing hangers off for machine work.

    Get another diff, or at least tubes.
     
  7. brind
    Joined: Aug 2, 2016
    Posts: 20

    brind

    Thanks for all the help and suggestions!!
    I bought the sleeves from a shop in the states (cant remember now) but the paperwork suggests theyre hardened.... [emoji23]
    I am in Perth, Western Australia.
    I will talk to a few people when i fly back to civilisation and explore my options a little more now i have a bit more of an idea!
    Thanks again, will keep you posted


    Flat out fabricating
     
  8. Ask the machinist if they are hardened. A good one should have a feeling for it, if not there is a machine to test for hardness.

    Charlie Stephens
     
  9. brind
    Joined: Aug 2, 2016
    Posts: 20

    brind

    As a late follow up,
    i have the diff finished and at home, cost of the machining ended up at $100, the brake backing plate has some interferance but i have some newer bells from a 46 one ton pickup to try on!
    Thanks for all the help and suggestions, will definatley help in future builds!

    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  10. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    I don't know much about machine shops (but agree with Charlie's ****ysis of yours!) but I have been told that the most convenient setup is a shop that rebuilds big truck engines, using a big crankshaft grinder on the housings.
     
  11. brind
    Joined: Aug 2, 2016
    Posts: 20

    brind

    Thanks bruce, i was told of a similar style set up however most of the known places were interstate!


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  12. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,364

    19Fordy
    Member

    Glad it turned out good.
    Be sure and strap those axles and rear to that metal stand so they won't 'flip" and fall.
     
    brind likes this.
  13. brind
    Joined: Aug 2, 2016
    Posts: 20

    brind

    Already onto it, cheers [emoji1303]


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     

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