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Projects 48 ford sedan to business coupe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by NewGuyOldFord, Nov 17, 2016.

  1. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
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  2. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
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  3. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
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    The start of a trunk floor. Not great like I see on here but should do the trick. [​IMG][​IMG]

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  4. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
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    Would anyone know the thickness of the rear crossmember rubber bushings so I could shim it up correctly to weld it in? Thanks...BART.

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  5. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
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    Got the passenger side rear quarter cut in and tack welded. Then made a partial quarter patch with the remainder of the sedan quarter. I used ratchet straps to pull it together to see where I'm at and realized I have to take about an 1/8 of an inch out of the roof splice in the door opening. Thanks for looking. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  6. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
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    Took a time out from cutting and welding. Most people won't understand my method of madness but I just had to see it in there..... plus try on my new headers. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  7. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,450

    manyolcars

    You are doing an awesome job! I hope someone gives you the info you need
     
  8. AldeanFan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2014
    Posts: 1,087

    AldeanFan

    Great work!
    You've got guts just starting a project like this

    Did you use the fox oil pan?


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  9. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
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    Yes, 86 fox body oil pan. I think I may relocate the drain plug. Thanks for all the words of encouragement.

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  10. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
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  11. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
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    Ok....another stupid measurement question. Seeing how the back end of this car was so wonky and rusty I'm not sure of the measurement of the trunk "opening". Could someone give me the measurement between the two round holes that have the rubber "stoppers" in them to keep the trunk lid from bottoming out on the tops of the quarters? I'll try to get a picture if I can of what I need. Also, I could use the trunk latch striker measurement from the tail pan to the striker. Thanks for everyone that has helped me with these requests. This is a 48 short door coupe. BART.
     
  12. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
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  13. You have made good progress. I look forward to your updates.
     
  14. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
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    Hey Aldeanfan, the motor is a 306 roller motor that was in my 86 mustang GT with warmed up E7 heads, Motorsports "E" cam, explorer upper and lower intake and throttle body, Pro M 77 MM bullet Mass air with matching 24 LBS injectors, ford racing T5 and a stock 2.8X traction loc. Even with the crappy gears I ran low 13's with street tires and full exhaust. I had BBK big tube full length headers, 2 1/2 off road H pipe and 2 1/2 stainless flowmaster exhaust out the back. So, hopefully I don't give up too much going to a carb and Victor Jr intake and fenderwell headers. Plus, the coupe weighs a lot less than my mustang did. Should be a fun ride. If I get bored I'll just throw my Powerdyne BD11a supercharger on it and my 300 shot nitrous plate system. That should wake it up a little. Thanks for looking.
     
  15. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
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  16. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
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    NewGuyOldFord
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    Ok guys.... need some help. I need the measurement from the back of the square hole to the center of the first hole. My frame does not have that first hole it says should be there if I read the directions properly. Thanks. [​IMG]

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  17. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
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    Please help me.....i need this measurement circled. From outside of frame to center of hole to drill. Thanks. [​IMG]

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  18. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
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    Quick question.... is it alright to lower the front wishbone at the crossmember without splitting them to make room for my mustang t5?

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  19. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
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    So I bought a "universal" biscuit style motor mount kit for a small block ford. After some cutting and welding of the engine side mount this is the drivers side so far (Not completed).[​IMG][​IMG]

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  20. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 3,587

    topher5150
    Member

    lots of questions time
    is that the original steering box?
    what kit is that?
    how is that all going to fit together....looks like there's a huge gap between the mount and frame
     
  21. chevy54man
    Joined: Feb 7, 2013
    Posts: 1,683

    chevy54man
    Member
    from NC

    You're doing an awesome job on an ambitious project! Best to you man!
     
  22. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
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    Hey Topher5150. Yes it's the original steering box. I know there is a gap that I plan to fill with metal the same thickness as the store bought mounts. I am planning on making these extensions go over and form a "C" against the frame rail and then bolt them in. I'm running fenderwell headers so my mount arrangement down low is not a concern. I'm trying to retain the original oil filter instead of a relocation kit also. It has a cobra z spec 5 speed in it so I did very minimal clearancing of the"X" brace except for cutting the top open for the shifter box. Here is the kit I bought. You can see that I cut the motor side plate so I could move the biscuit mounting hole forward to clear the steering box and then re- welded it. May not be what others would do but it's what I came up with. Probably going to put two ear mounts on the bellhousing along with a tranny tailshaft mount. The other pictures shows how I cut the mount. Thanks for looking. [​IMG] [​IMG]

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    Last edited: Jan 3, 2018
  23. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
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  24. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 3,587

    topher5150
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    how far back is that mount? I'm comparing it to the CE kit that I have.
     
  25. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
    Member

    I'd have to measure it. I have the motor set back as far as I can without the valve cover hitting the stock firewall. The crank pulley is over the sway bar by maybe a 1/4 inch. I'm using a 86-93 fox body oil pan so I let that dictate some also. I have a 1/4 inch from the front of the pane to the cross leaf spring mounting bolts in the front crossmember.
     
  26. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

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  27. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 3,587

    topher5150
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    wow you do have that engine sitting that far back
     
  28. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
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    Yep. With a 1/2 inch clearance to the drivers side valve cover with the stock firewall.

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  29. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 18,039

    Squablow
    Member

    I love this kind of build/bodywork and it looks like you're making good progress. Gonna be a good looking coupe when you're all done!
     
  30. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
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    Thanks Squablow. This is the first big job I have ever done. I've done patchwork on my comets and falcons and fairlanes but nothing to this extent. I hope it turns out. KOOLKEMP's rusty 47 build gave me the inspiration to do this. Trust me, not building a trailer queen or show car. This thing is going to be driven... hard. Have to finish up drilling the holes for the parallel leaf springs and then in goes the narrowed ford explorer rear. The 5 speed ought to make it a fun ride.

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