Does anyone know how much you can de-arch the leaf springs on a 50 Chevy (mine's a Styline ) and still have them fit the stock shackle and bolt set up. Just to be clear, I'm not talking about removing leaves ..I mean actually having them de-arched at a spring shop near me . I'd like to go at least 3" but I'm sure that will make them longer as they flatten out. I am already running 3" blocks and they didn't get me low at all..I still have plenty on travel room on the torque tube and pumpkin if I go another 3" on the springs.
I had a set dearched 2" on a 54 Ford I had. Made them alot longer than I expected, they were not even useable after that. As for my chevy I went 1" dearch with 3" blocks and still rode really nice.
Dearching the springs will lengthen the spring as compared to it's more arched previous shape....however..think about it, it is no more than what happens when the spring flexes due to the loading in the car with passengers/luggage etc. and the shackles are designed to accommodate that movement. It's the same thing whether dearched or loaded. Shouldn't pose a problem. Ray
I'm thinking that if I have at least an 1 1/2" (2" would be better) in front to back play in the shackles that would be plenty on a 3" drop. Gotta measure that.
So Ray, What you are saying is that in this case the physics will accommodate the style? It makes sense BUT- Then why would an only 2" de-arch Greaser814's Ford springs unusable unless trying to mount what would be equivalent to a stressed spring that's already mounted is like trying to stuff toothpaste back in the tube?
I don't have an answer for his problem since I am not there to see for myself. It just doesn't seem that with the same spring, just dearched, that reattaching it to the hanger and shackles should be so difficult. Maybe a come-a-long SECURELY attached to the spring ends would allow the spring to be temporarily arched enough to simplify installation. Just be very careful if you use the come-a-long idea. Ray
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