49-54 Chevy Frame Question

The guy I bought it from did that... which makes me think he didn't make the ugly welds that we saw on the frame.

 

I'm going to take a video perhaps of each side slowly and then maybe we can go back and get some photos of areas that look iffy? Maybe a video will be better.

I agree, safety first... bottom line. I have some life left to live and I don't want to shorten it or shorten someone else's. I appreciate all the help from everyone that has responded on this forum. Perhaps with a video and more photos we can confirm if this frame is too sketchy/risky... and then I can have a think about what to do next.. I think the chop and gl*** are great though, you're right its a decent starting point, I can swap the frame easier than I could ever dream of chopping this thing as a newbie to welding... that would either make it easier to continue with this project or less of a headache to try and resell this car as is to someone that is wanting to swap the frame or do the work to correct what's in there now.

Another thought, I wonder if I can find a generous HAMBer in San Diego with heavy experience to come look at it and give a second opinion.

 

Eh.....I had g body frames distort from being jacked up 20 years ago without rust

 

Every weld on a g body frame is ****. Actually where the term "g body shuffle" comes from. Ive seen whole sections where they missed the seam entirely from the factory

 

It does appear the frame has been shortened

 

I think they lined up the front wheels correctly. We were worried about that. I’m now worried about the structural integrity. The splice job looks sketchy right?

 

Would not have left my shop in that condition.
The frame would not have went under the car in that condition.
The frame maybe could be saved with enough time and effort, but it would have to come out from under the body to inspect it, before I would have even given you a number.

Then the question is, the questionable frame fits poorly under the car, why invest the effort to patch this one up when a frame that could actually work may be available?

Ten years ago, and 2,000 miles away, I would have been the guy you need now. The guy looking for the most cost effective way to make the car safe for years to come. Find someone like me near you.

 

Are you planning on laying frame? If not you wouldn't need a c notch

 

what a mess. no reputable shop would work on that ch***is. no reputable painter will paint it.
these cars have a big aftermarket. I haven't paid much attention lately but there used to be bolt in MII front suspension available. transmission crossmembers as well ... different ways to mount the master cylinder... all sorts of ways to put a V8 and open driveline original frame. MII is much better but I had one with the stock front suspension with cut coils and disc brakes. all kinds of patch panels to fix any rust, (some are junk) I think you can even get a complete floor.

 

I definitely want it lower than it would be able to go without a c-notch on a stock frame.

 

Get a 220 welder and buy an 220 volt extension cord to plug into your dryer or range outlet when you need to weld.

 

Thanks so my dryer is gas, and the washer is running on 120 but there's an outlet next to it that could be 220 hmmm. The issue is my panel is on the other corner of the house so it would be a 60ft run and whats by the washer is not 8 gauge wiring! I was in the attic last weekend (I do a yearly termite inspection of my own) and found 8 gauge wiring running to the garage, down the wall then back in to behind the kitchen for the electric oven. I could tap into that easily for a 110V 40 amp connection and I live alone (with lousy prospects of getting married) so the oven would never get used at the same time if I used that outlet. If I run two other 8 gauge cable to get 220v that's going to require some pain getting it from the breaker panel into the attic (my breaker panel is outside) as there are already many other cables/wires running up and I was poking around and it's hard to get my hand/arm, head back enough to do any work there.

If I had an electrician make a connection/socket off the panel and run a temporary cable just for welding outside I think its about a 40 ft run to the driveway it might not make it into the garage though. The 7-10ft chord on the welding unit, and then 10 ft chord to the gun might make it just barely reach into the front garage door opening so not ideal. I have seen some 8 gauge 220 v extension cords 40ft that run about $170 online hmmm

 

You will never find a 40 amp 110-120 volt circuit. A typical 110-120 circuit for plugs will be 20 amps and 14 amp for overhead lighting. Your plug for your range will be 220 volt either 50 or 60 amps. Check the breaker panel to see what the breaker says. You can buy a circuit tester at any building supply store or Harbor freight to make sure the plug goes dead when breaker is turned off. Best option is to have an electrician run a new dedicated line to your garage either overhead or dig a trench. Easiest is to run an extension cord from range plug to welder.
I would not buy a 110-120 wire feed to weld on the frame. Either buy a 220 volt Strick rod welder or a 220 wire feed.

 

I'm pretty sure that California requires a dedicated circuit for your stove. Wiring in a 220 plug in the circuit would be illegal.
If I was one of those hooligans that sometimes raced on the street and ran thru the gears every once in a while, I would wire a plug into the box and then wire a disconnect to the range so no one could use it by accident while using the welder.

 

Hmmm yea I'm sure! I could also run an extension cable from the outlet for the stove... pull it out when I need to weld so I can connect the extension cable there.. or put a plug into the box and leave the the range off for a week or 2 and use a microwave only until I finish what I need to do. Or screw it just do what I need to do temporarily with a plug tee'd in and convert it back after then when I want to spend the money later get an electrician to put in a dedicated line to the garage.

 

Having 220 running through the garage would be a nice place to connect a welder to. Then you can buy a decent 220 wire feed welder with gas, and actually do something as you learn to weld. I have used a 25' long 220 8G wire extension cord on my Miller welder for 30+ years. I have 2 locations in my garage with a 220 v plug, the 25' extension allows me to reach 30' outside of the garage and anyplace inside of the garage. What CA requires would be between you and the guy that installed the 220 plug.

If this car checks off the boxes you like, I would pursue the replacement frame concept to at least find out what that number would look like. Would be a shame to find out another $5G would give you the car you wanted, but you let it go for a possible loss, and sold it before you got the numbers. Right now everything cost wise is just speculation.
If you bought that other car just for the frame, you could sell off the stuff you don't need, and may be able to get a lot of that 3g back.

 

Hmmm, the cheapest option would be to put the plug in and say nothing to anyone and do what I have to do until I get an electrician to put something professional in. Do I want a 220V setup for welding if I don't have this car? Maybe or maybe not.

I was hoping to drive this car and feel it out and grow to like it enough to put some money into it. I don't have that feeling yet because I haven't been able to drive it. Maybe if I can drive it out into my driveway and leave it parked during the day so I can see it from angles the feeling will sink in some.

I talked to someone that does custom metal work on these types of cars and is based in LA. He reached out because he was thinking of buying it as well but I beat him to it. He said it would be about $10k to get the car set up on another frame (the parts would be about half the cost) with the c-notch, adding a 4-link and putting a Mustang 2 front end. The one you shared already has a mustang 2 front end so that could lower the cost but it still needs c-notch, 4-link, then I'd have to get the driveshaft modified, steering column made to fit, transport costs, etc.

I sent him some photos and he told me he's seen worse frames and he thinks what it's on could be salvaged and worked with for about $2k to fix the bad welded areas/reinforce and make body mounts for it. He said he recommends not messing with the frame kickout because it could affect handling so I'd have to deal with it and that it shouldn't be too bad to the eye when the car is sitting low if its bagged.

Some other guy wants to buy it off me for $12k but pay me $1k per month and has a custom shop and said he could draw up a contract.

 

Please sell the car and save for one that is finished. Don't burn down your house trying to weld.

 

I still say a lot are blowing it out of proportion. Ok let's say you do go back to a stock frame. I see complete ch***is from resto mods go for under $500. You can install m2 yourself if you can turn a wrench as you should not be using weld in m2 on a 49-54. Just unbolt the stock front suspension as an ***embly and roll out and start bolting on the m2 stuff. Buy spring perches off eBay and weld to the g body rear end. Reason I asked if planning to lay frame is when I had 3" blocks in my 53 the rear was REALLY low. If you had lakes pipes on it they'd s****e before rear hit frame. In all the pics it appears most of the factory body mount positions are still intact. The ones that aren't would be easy to put back. And mounts to put the current engine and transmission in a factory frame would be cheap to get. You might see if the seller still has the original frame laying around

 

Here's the only silver lining... if I knew I could pull this off, I would be willing to practice welding on s**** pieces of metal for even a year every single weekend until I got better... but I'm not sure how good enough I would be to weld a frame without many years of experience. I'm not interested in doing a **** job like the previous person.

I could using the 220 v outlet for my kitchen range find a welder with experience who might be willing to work on it for me say in two weekends and it would cost less than taking it to a shop...

Also I definitely value my house way more and do not want to burn it down.. I'd be willing to weld outside in the driveway though but not sure about in the garage as an amateur.

 

I am considering this!

 

Hmmm yea I see the point of going back to stock frame... the issue is getting this body off and onto a different frame.. I do think I will get hurt attempting this totally alone.. even if I got another person to help I'm not sure if that would work. I bet I could pay some people to help me lift for a little while though if I put a post up somewhere. In San Diego I wonder if I would find any of the ch***is for $500 like you mentioned... that could be a better route at this point and maybe to do a c-notch and 4-link in the back it would be a few grand ***uming I did the mustang 2 bolt in route. However the mustang 2 front end kits with airbag run about $3k.

If I went with the one gene-koning showed before for $3k and sold some of the stuff I don't need maybe that would work out better since it has mustang 2 front end.. however it still needs a c-notch and 4-link.

There's no way around this, it's a lot of work. If it weren't for the fact it's hard to find people to do chop and gl*** for $10,500 I would be more convinced I should unload this as is. If I'm doing a static drop I'm going to get frustrated s****ing a lot. I want to bag it so I can raise it all the way up getting in and out of my driveway and other places easier.

This is turning into way more of a project than initially thought, and that's good and bad.. the good is I would learn a lot, the bad is I am dying for free time quite often!

Any hints where I could find a ch***is cheap for about $500 in my region?

 

Over thinking removing the body like me and fastcar1953 have been saying. Remove fenders and hood. Raise it a foot on stands with regular jacks. Roll frame out

 

I see the cheap frames on the 49-54 FB pages in California regularly

 

And honestly i could get you a complete one for $100 if willing to drive. But really should see if seller has original frame still. When I bought the 54 off fastcar1953 it was as is without a frame at all. When he heard I planned on building it he offered the original frame with small upgrades for an additional $200

 

Geez, we're kinda beating a dead horse here.
There are only 2 real choices here.
1).Find a welder/shop that will fix the frame and work with you.
2). Sell the car and look for something else.
Swapping the frame for a stocker isn't viable because the body (with G-body floors) won't fit it a stock frame anymore, besides, you would be taking a running car and basically starting a completely new build.

 

Very little of the floor in the car is g body