49-54 Chevy Frame Question

the ***le vin matches the vin plate on the a pillar albeit the ***le is a New Mexico ***le.

 

Thanks.. I don’t think any body work has been done just the metal work.. the seller mentioned to me to do body work to it one panel at a time so he implied just the metal work was done.
The overlapping sail panel seems to indicate bad work though as you said.

I’ll get this back on the ground and try to unload it at a loss….

 

Is the easy to find where there is heavy bondo using a small magnet? I can feel a small magnet sticking in all the areas where the panels and chop work was done thus far. Is the trick to feel where the magnet doesn’t stick as strong? There isn’t anywhere that the magnet is sticking thus far when checking.

 

with a weaker magnet I can feel where there is a little bondo but it’s definitely not where the sail panel overlaps on the inside.

 

that’s what I see… this is similar to what I saw on my chopped 50 ford shoebox only it had the chrome trim with felt between the gl*** and outer body… that one was not meant to be left outdoors..

I imagine the same thing was intended for this one as well.

the two other chopped cars I had were fair weather cars and could not be driven in the rain..

 

At least the welds that are showing are quality welds. The gaps can be filled with steel rod or opened up with a grinder. You seem reluctant to learn to weld. If so then maybe selling is the correct choice? But! I don’t think you need to loose money on it. I can see it in that condition being worth the money. A guy in his garage could fix the issues reasonably easy in a reasonable amount of time. In less time than a home chop would take.

 

Steel and welding. Seriously though you won’t know until you get the gl*** out and the paint off. Some metal, a mig welder and a shrinker stretcher maybe a small cheap sheet metal brake. Some hammers and dollies should be all you need. Except for the welder Harbor Freight tools should be more than adequate.

 

Ok that's a strong point FOR the car. Trust me

 

I would be very concerned with the pin holes of rust near the bottom of the body. Those may indicate a large amount of very thin metal to work with when trying to fix. That would most likely entail cutting and large patch panels. I could be wrong, but it could be a can of worms...

 

here's a simple way to check for excess paint/filler on your car. you can get the same exact one for less on Amazon, but this seller shows a good photo of how it works.this one says it is for paint thickness, so it may not even stick on some areas at all on this car
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CJY96CP4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

Turn the cap to the first notch.

 

These two statements pretty much cover this car.
I think you probably need to learn when to walk away, before you hand over your money.
The two guys were scam artists and told you what ever they thought you wanted to hear.
I suspect this is going to be an expensive lesson before its all done. The good news about that is you probably won't make those mistakes again very soon.

 

it doesn’t seem to want to turn any more.

also don’t I need an overflow tank regardless?

 

I mean loosen it to first notch

 

If you don't have the conversations, recorded, its going to be their word against your word, and there are two of them.
Then you will have to be able to prove they knew the things that were done were unsafe.

It would be your choice to pursue legal or small claims to get your money back, but even if you win, you would still have to be able to collect it.
I took a guy to small claims court and won, the judge told me I could collect my money using any legal process available. Never got a penny of it. I wish you luck if you go in that direction.

 

For trips in & out of the garage....you don't need to top-off the radiator. 3/4 full and it 'shouldn't ' spew & steam...
6sally6
PS Your in wayyyy over your head.
Eastwood said it best..."A man's got to know his limitations"

 

Just sent you a message on fb