Hey guys, My frame had seen its fare share of bouncing thru farm fields and God only knows what else over its life. I took it in last month for some straightening work. While they did a good job reworking some troubled areas, after I got it home I ran some measurements and basicly the frame is out of square. Running a string line from front to back and checking measurements from R and L rear corners crosswise to the front body mount points shows I'm approx 5/8" off from one to the other. (does my description make sense?) The shop said bring it back in and they'll look at it again. I guess my real questions are how precise were these frames back in the day? If exactness can't be acheived, how much "not quite right" is acceptable for a 65 yr old frame, if any? How do I know when to throw in the towel on something like this? thanx.
Your measurements should be the same + or - 1/8 inch. For a good frame shop repair. Sometime you just can't, get it to work out for some reason. The wheels should to be square. Sometimes they or you just have to work around other problems. In a perfect world everything would be perfect, sometimes it isn't.
Search need a frame dimension chart for 1949-51 Mercury See post #8 There is a diagram with measurements.
Ford passenger car frame specs in the mid 1970's was plus or minus 3/8. Your frame is at the outside of OK. It could be a bit better.
As mentioned above, you really should go by the Frame Dimension Measurements. Some frames are A-Symetrical ( ie. don't measure the same from side to side). I'd hang at least 3 center line gauges to check the frame, (4) center line gauges is the best though. Good luck with your Twisted Sister ! VR&C.
As stated should be the same length each side and diagonally using OEM holes. I just did a friends 42 Chevy PU and inserted a modified 46 Olds centre X-member with trailing arm rear suspension in lieu of the old ladder frame crossmembers. I levelled and squared the OEM frame before I inserted the modified X-member using OEM holes in frame rails and x-member that matched each side to square things up. Lots of measuring before it was accurate and clamped into place. To make it easy I made a light alloy trammel bar some time ago with a couple to interchangeable ends for small and large holes, better and more accurate than any tape measure. I used the same principle with trammel bar when I did my 35 Chevy many years ago as the frame had similarly suffered the ravages of time and was not square. More recently I did my 46 Olds and a modified Model 'A' frame.
Take it back,a good frame shop should be able to get the frame straight within 1/8 inch..plus or minus. 5/8 inch is unexceptionable. HRP
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