4bbl holley on 350 sbc/ leaking from top rail of carb

You can use a boxed end wrench to get those out...

 

Even the 12 points? It is super close to the intake. Anyone here have this intake with the same problem?

 

Take a cheap chinese boxed end wrench and grind some material around the outer edge... That should give you some clearance...

 

That worked well! So now that situation is taken care of! I hope the gaskets are fine under the intake.

 

56, { sorry I forgot your first name }, did you use sealant on the threads of the intake bolts? I know I just ruined your night right.

Look at LOKAR for your cable and kick down.

 

Sweeeeeet!..

 

As someone said there are two different transfer tube O rings depending on the model of carb you have.

These fit most of the Holley carbs and are a bit spendy but I've never had any luck with the generic ones out of the O ring box.
http://www.holley.com/26-37.asp

http://www.holley.com/108-97.asp

 

I did not use sealant. Should I back them all out and use some? Also what kind?

 

I had got some new o rings in the kit.Hopefully they work well.

 

I was getting really into rebuilding this carb until i took off the reat bowl and found these screws holding this plate and gaskets on. Are they "clutch head" ?? If so where do I get a bit that fits those?

 

Clutch head bits. Score a 100 piece el-cheapo bit set (clutch too) at Harbor Freight $9.99.

 

Well for the future I guess I will be buying a set of those this weekend. Anyt other better brands I can buy that's local?

I ended up buying a cheap standard screwdriver and my buddy ground it down just right on his bench grinder and it worked well. Now im worried about the little plate that was under that block that was on top of the gasket. Its alittle bent up. Hopefully it straightens out.

 

I am not sure if I should rebuild the whole carb or just replace the gaskets and also the o rings on the fuel tube just where the problems were? Its seemed fine besides that. Im just a bit intimidated with the rest of the kit and I dont think it is needed?

 

If it performed fine, minus the leak, I would just put the gaskets in and go. But make sure that everything looks good and clean inside. Its no fun taking it back apart after you got it together due to some garbage in the fuel bowls.

 

Yeah it looks pretty damn clean inside. I cleaned all the surfaces and insides the best I could do and came out well. it cam with a bunch of valves and seals in a little bag and no idea where they go. I am trying to find some sort of instruction sheet on this carb.

 

If its a standard kit it will fit several models. So some of the parts you get you won't use in your carb. Just take your time, take yours apart slow, take pictures if needed. Then put it back together one part at a time.

 

Thats what I am trying to do. I am just worried and dont want this thing screwed up or put together wrong..or parts left out. I am still searching for a instruction guide or sheet. I didnt buy the trick kit it was a smaller kit that I thought should be sufficient.

 

If anyone has a layout or directions on full ***embly that is clear please let me know. Thanks

 

What do you need help with ?
Take out one bottom screw from the bowl, have a catch container for the gas that will come out. You can use an old water bottle with the top 1/4 of it cut off for this, take out the other 3 screws and make sure to keep track of the little washers between screws and bowl. You might have to give the bowl a light rap with a rubber hammer, then the bowl will come loose. Pull it straight back so the transfer tube comes out of either bowl.
Now you are looking at the metering plate. There will be a gasket between the bowl and plate and one between plate and carb main body. Clean and replace gaskets with new making sure the gaskets are the same as the ones you removed. Taking note while removing the old ones in one piece always helps to orientate the direction the new ones go back on.
Replace the O rings on the transfer tube coating them with a light coat of Vaseline and sliding them half way up to the flange area on the tube. Gently insert the tube back into the bowl keeping thing squared up and give a slight push to seat the O rings.
Hold the bowl in place making sure your accelerator pump arm is in position with the spring loaded arm from the carb. There are a couple nubs that hold the bowl in place and squares that up. Put your 4 screws back in that holds the bowl to the main body remembering those little washers.
That should be it for the a simple gasket / O ring change.

 

Ge kit came with all types of little gaskets and bigger gaskets also with big br*** needles and valves. Should I npt do all of that? Just the main gaskets and the two o rings? I took both bowls off along with the bottom plate that has the "****erflys" The rear bowl had a plate behind with gasket under, only way to get that gaslet out was to remove it with clutchhead driver. That plate got alittle bent.

 

Well got the carb all back together. Its idling high and rough and is very sensitive. Give it gas and wats to die. If I turn down the idle it dies. What to do?

 

http://youtu.be/6KjjN-ACqMs

 

http://youtu.be/UPGLUsW5ZeE

 

Thanks slammed! Well I guess tomorrow I will turn the two side screws in and back them out a turn and a half and let the motor warm up. Then just go from there and see how it goes. After all that the the idle screw. I checked a few of the spark plugs and they were dark and kind of black. Also im worried maybe the timming is off? So many things that make me think. When i give it gas it take a few seconds to wind down.

 

Plugs sound rich mixture. It ran fine before the O-ring leaks? This will give you a chance to fine tune it.

 

It ran about the same if not alittle worse before.

 

If the tube is leaking which is rare it can be soldered in a pinch.

Normally the little O rings take a dump, you have to remove a bowl to get the tube out and replace the O rings. I have use parts counter O rings with good success.

 

I replaced all the gaskets and the o rings. Just the bas,bowls and the gaskets in the rear bowl aswell "secondaries" I didnt replace the "bushing" or whatever theybare called in the tthrottle shafts or the needle valves or any of that. I did replace the power valve. Everything else seemed fine. The carb doesnt leak at all. Jist the idle goes up then down. Runs rough and when I give it gas it seems to take alittle bit before the idle drops back down. It also seems to be burning too much gas I think. I also think the throttle and kick down setup it has is a pile of **** and want to buy a lokar kit. Just not sure which one to get. I definately want the stainless braided one.

 

Just think by the time you get it figured out, you'll know a lot about that carb and how it works. I thought you just wanted to fix the leak and move the car, not rebuild the carb ?
You should look for a book on how to rebuild Holley carbs, they are great to have and has tons of useful info. I still use mine to figure out things and lend a hand.

 

Well I did fix the leak but since the kit had all new gaskets and a power valve I went ahead and did the o rings,gaskets and power valve. Doesmt leak and seems to be fine besides running rough,no stable idle, also is a bit high.