4bbl holley on 350 sbc/ leaking from top rail of carb

The old ones are delco aswell. Should I find out what year it is first?

 

Your heads will have a date code between the rockers, gotta pull the valve covers to see it.

 

So where exactly will the date be and what will it look like? Uner both valve covers?

 

http://outintheshop.com/faq/casting/castings2.html

 

Well I found these numbers under the drivers valve cover 333882/k11 74 then GM14T on p***enger side head it looked like 333882/ this part looked like 081 74/ I cant see block numbers at rear because the firewall and intake. The 333882 is 1970-80

 

Well hopefully that tells me the correct year. I will go get the delco spark plugs for those years and the correct gap along with vacuum line for advance and the bigger stuff for the trans and booster. They seem old and brittle.

 

Some of the parts stores you mentioned may carry the small bubble packs of Holley parts such as the "O" rings you need and bowl gaskets on a performance parts wall display. If not they can cross to a rebuild kit which most likely will not be genuine Holley parts but will work.

 

Thats exactly ehat I bought. The little "bubble pack" its from holley at oreilly

 

Well I have came to an issue... I have the vacuum fitting on the intake "T'd" off going to the brake booster then had a hose going down to the trans. Does the 350 trans need vacuum? or does that vacuum port just need to go to the brake booster and thats it?

 

Trans need the vac line.

 

I found a picture of a module that you can slide a hose over:
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/there-vacuum-line-turbo-350-a-175592.html

But the one on my car seems to have threads ans cant push a hose over and its too short. How do I hook this up to the "T"

 

Those are like gills on a fish? Serrated like, You may need to: change the module, larger diameter hose. longer hose. Did this car drive much or far?

 

The car came from out of state. My ex co worker bought it and has mostly just sat around, he did small things here and there to it but the most part just sat. I drove it around the block a few times. So if I go to oreilly what exactly am I going to be asking for? Also how are these attached to the trans? I would like to get this on with the new hose today. Im trying my best to get most of the bugs out so I can fire the car up this afternoon and tune the carb.

 

Is there different sizes or types or certain years that are different? I think the trans might be the same year bracket as motor 1970-1980. I will be going to oreilly shortly so if anyone can tell me what i should get or look for would be awesome! How are these attached? Screw on to trans body? If so do I use that white teflon (spell check) tape?

 

All older 350 turbos have the same style vac mod. You will see it held in place with a bolt. It will have an O-ring that seals it to the case. Put some trans fluid on the shaft and O-ring before re-installing. When this is all done and tuned. Check the trans fluid level as well.

 

Ok cool. Well like I said they offer the threaded type or the one with the ****** for a rubber hose. The one on my car now is threaded. So i hope it will be fine to get the module with the ******. Oreilly sayds they have it so I will go pick it up right now.

 

You'd think that youtube jerk would turn off his radio if he's making a video.

 

Haha right!?

 

Well I decided to pull the module from the trans. It actually does have a ****** on it, just really hard to see under the car. So these things usually dont go out very easy right? I should be able to put it back on and get a new hose and install it? I noticed the ****** on the module is a little smaller the the one on the "T" splitter. Should I just get a smaller hose and it should be fine?

 

that's a VERY old modulator , maybe 40+ years...so it is probably shot in my opinion

the new replacement will be a lot shorter

 

So its best to just get a new one? What about the issue on the "T" splitter? When putting the new one on do I need to fill it with trans fluid? Or it will fill on its own?

 

i haven't been following this thread to understand exactly your plumbing problem , i usually use 7/32" vacuum line right to the intake plenum

don't fill it with ****** fluid , just a swipe on the O-ring and inner shaft. the side with the ****** should NEVER have any ****** fluid in it


i suggest replacing it while it is out . it is very old and if it isn't bad now it may soon **** out on you. i haven't seen one of those in years

new about $12

 

Yeah some fluid came out of the ******. Well oreilly has them for $14. Also what trans fluid is best for this application? Guess I will be taking a trip over there right now.

 

****** fluid came out of the ******? i'd get a new one

yes.....get it at O'Reillys...my profit sharing needs it!


what fluid for a TH350.....i'd use dextron III

 

Your profit sharing? Haha ok. Would it be ok to use the existing fluid I have in it now then add the dexon III?

 

it probably has Dextron III in it now , if the fluid looks good just top it off

you do know you check the level on the ****** dipstick with the motor running in neutral

 

Ok cool..yes I know..haha

 

They are also asking with or without EGR...The one without has a suncken in ****** with a little pressure valve inside.

 

Your original modulator was an adjustable type. Some new ones are. Some aren't. Just look inside the ****** and look for a slotted screw on the adjustable type. The adjustable one is preferred. You can fine tune your shifts points with it.
All you need is some more 5/16 vac hose to hook it up to a manifold vacuum source.
Is your kick down linkage hooked up?
Take a pic of drivers side of carb for us!

 

Yes I got an adjustable one. They also asked if I needed one for EGR I told them no..Hope I was right. The kick down has a small bolt and nut holding it to car but is loos and isn't technically hooked up. That is why I am buying a new lokar throttle cable and kick down set up, clean and efficient. Here is a pic of the new vacuum module.