4bbl holley on 350 sbc/ leaking from top rail of carb

Excellent!
When you hooked up your vacuum pot on your distributor did you check to see if it's working?

 

NO I didn't check if its working. Isn't there a way of checking without running the motor? Like blowing into it?

 

JUst the opposite! **** on it!!
Hook your vac line on and **** hard. Stick your tongue on the end and then release it. You should hear the canister pop!!
Isn't hotrodding fun!!!

 

"No, it ****s!"

Seriously, you guys have truly gone to lengths helping this gent out! Makes me proud...just like you were there.

A genuine 'welcome' to an interested new guy. Kudos.

 

Thanks for the help!

 

He has been a lot of help. Sorry if I seem "dumb" to you guys im just trying to learn as much as I ca. Rather ask a question or as many as I can instead of not doing so and screwing things up.

 

So everything is hooked u and drives well but when I get to a stop and slows down is seems to stumble and idle drops and cuts out. Also seems like its running hot but on the temp gauge says running fine. Cant really get it to keep a steady idle after warmed up. Either its too high or too low.

 

Now that sounds familiar to me. The needle seat o-rings on my 600 Holley ate away from the E85 gas. Pull it out and see that the o-rings are still fat and round, not worn or shaved down to nothing. They sell it separate if you need it.

 

Are you talking about the two valves one on each side of the metering block?

 

http://youtu.be/Ctw7Xrtytww This is it. You will then set the float level with this large nut/screw.

 

That is just one video right? Shows how to adjust the float. Havent done that yet but have done the needle valves on each side of the primary metering block at 1 1/2 turns out on each side just like one of the videos said. I also did what one of the guys said, check your vacuum advance by ****ing on the hose and the adv. should pop? I tried my hardest and I didnt hear a pop. Hopefully I didnt do it correctly and its not bad.

 

Look you need to remove the needle/seat and check the O-ring. It must be full and round, not worn/eaten away even with the br*** body. Once that is good to go. you set the float level. Focus on one area at a time. Needle seat. Then the vac advance. THEN it will come time to set and fine tune the carb.

 

Ok but the needle should be fine...just change the o ring if bad correct? I really hope that advance is good, I did what I was told but it was pretty hard.

 

I hope today squares away the rest of the carb issues.

 

Yes, you shouldn't need to do anything except change the O ring.

Having those O rings leak is probably the most common issue with a Holley even for those of us who have ran them for years and work on them on a regular basis.

The Factory Holley O rings are a bit spendy but I never had much luck with the over the counter O rings out of the ***ortments.

 

I got that little mini kit in the "bubble" I think it might have a few extras in there. I will check after work if they are there.

 

Sorry if we're throwing too much stuff your way.
You gotta slow down and fix one thing at a time like Slammed says.
On the vacuum pot. If you think it's not working pull the hose off the carb and put a cap on the ******. A vacuum leak thru the pot could screw up your tuning issues in your carb. Once you get the carb squared away then attack one thing at a time.
And like Mr48 says. Don't scrimp on the o-rings. Use quality parts.
And remember. Slow down!!

 

You are right.....I will have to take my time, I just really need to get it up and going. Where could I get those o rings if I dont have them? Somewhere local like oreilly,napa or autozone.

 

I purchased the entire needle and seat kit. $11-15.00. Call around, locate, make a short list of parts likely needed this round. I believe the needle/seat come in the master kit for the Holley. If you buy it, you will have all and x-tra parts for the next gremlin.

 

That is the kit I bought on the left

 

i'm glad you are buying your parts from O'reillys

 

Is the Holley package opened yet? Check for the Needle and seat

 

Yes it is opened...I used all the gaskets out of it for the carb and two o rings for the tube. It came with two of those needles and seats. Which one should I use on my carb?

 

Does either match up to it? And does the old one have a part# like the above? If the kit you have IS for your carb, then one should match up.

 

Ok thats what I needed to know. I will check when I get home, if it doesnt look bad should I still replace it and o ring just in case? On the way home I will pick up a set of rubber caps.

 

Compare the new to the old. Use a magnifying gl***. The O-ring needs to be FULL and round (fresh) Mine looked like some one turned it a lathe flush with the br*** body. It was the cause of my loading/erratic idle problems. Onward, the goal shall be achieved!

 

Ok cool sounds like a plan. The other day I looked through the o rings I was given but not sure which one is which. Do you possibly have a picture of the correct style?

 

Wait. You have a new needle/seat in this kit correct? That is the one to use. Look at the old one that came out of your carb. Does the o-ring look at all (full-fresh) like the new one? If not put the new, complete needle/seat in.

 

Well tge reason why I ask is because I am pretty sure tge o ring want on the valve in the box.

 

The new needle/seats don't have numbers on them on one set have the letter "H" then the other set in the bag have the letter "D" then the third bag has another little type of valve.