Hey guys, I scored a 4L80E for free and it will bolt to my 409. I was wondering what the 2 sensor holesare in the side and if i have to have a damn computer to make the transmission act right. Thanks, as always, for any and all help.
The E in 4L80e designates electronic. So you need a controller. One hole is for VSS or vehicle speed sensor.
The 4L80"E" is an electronically controlled transmission. Baumann makes a controller for these transmissions but they are not cheap.
The two sensors in the side are the input speed sensor and the output speed sensor. The big round plug on the side is for the computer hookup. You are looking buying an external computer, a throttle position sensor, and a wiring harness to make this one work. Without the computer, you have a paperweight. Oh, and you will need a laptop to set it up and tune it.
4L80E is a great transmission if it fits in your application. Yes, it uses an electronic VSS, no speedo gear. Yes, it needs a computer (and a throttle position sensor on the carb) to work at all.
IIRC some early 1990s trucks with 6.2/6.5 diesels have a standalone computer to control the electronic transmission, because the motor's not electronic controlled. You might have to hit something like a 3500 cutaway van camper or school bus to find one. That might be a way to make the thing work on a budget. But, it would only work on like a 1992-1995 transmission, I think once they go OBD-II you need an OBD-II control system to run it. That based on my experience with late model beaters and sourcing parts for them.
That is the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). It might work, but you'd be stuck with the Diesel's shift points, which would be anything but ideal for a gas engine.
It's possible to demasculate a 4L80-E with vaccuum modulator (critical) and electronic switching of the shift solenoids. There was a magazine review of 3 or 4 aftermarket controllers about 3 months ago. Free + controller = Under a grand 4L80-E. Given it's strength, that's a decent swap sum.
I think there's a way to run fully manual then you don't need a module/computer, I think. But, then you have zero automatic shifting and must do all upshifts and down shifts manually. Unless that's not a problem it's a cheap way to go.
Forgot to add that any use of the lockup in the converter would also have be done manually. But there are vaccum units for kicking it out for you. Mark l
I thought it was a straight bolt up however there are few differences with LS series engines to early Chevy. Crankshaft required a spacer and Compu shift kit is required to run transmission ($1.1K)? Try a reputable trans shop, Monster, Gearstar or, PATC.
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