As a parts counterman, I kinda agree. However, I get people trying to be cute, and people who like to say "they're all the same" or "this year'll fit, too", as well as folk who have no idea which end of a screwdriver to hold. Took the liberty to check my (Advance) catalogue today. NO listing for '50 Cadillac Series 61. None. Which means that either AZ has a better, more complete catalogue than the largest auto parts chain in the USA; the counterman decided to 'fudge' things and order parts for a later Cadillac, or he was given bad info. Which brings me back to: find a relining shop. If the ones out of the car fit, then relining those cores will ensure their proper fitment. Cosmo
Cosmo, I feel your pain. Being retired from the Auto Industry and the ***ociated Customer Service, I have seen all the "experts" come through the door, blow smoke to impress themselves, then blame the previous owner, when the same "self proclaimed expert" failed to get bolt"A" aligned with nut "B", as the directions indicated. UGH!
wasn't accusing you of asking for the wrong thing they made the mistake. the local parts houses i use have a couple guys that if i ask for a part and they say they can't find it, i call back and get another guy that finds it.
I guess, but none of that happened. I just said hi, i have a 1950 cadillac series 61 and need the front brake shoes. Then paid the man. Matter of fact I double checked the year make and model with him before he ordered. And they re-checked the part number when I returned them for poor fitment. Advance had universal non specific stuff on the website, and pep boys had nothing for a car that old. From now on, I will only deal with NAPA.
From my personal experience, NAPA countermen are as "mature" as the parts that they sell. They were around when parts books were the trend, long before PC's. They have always been my main source.
Unless your car is an aberration, the gear selection indicator on the column has a pointy little arrow(^) on each side of DR. The pointer of the indicator should stop at either of the pointers and not at DR. If not the selector linkage needs adjusting. When properly adjusted, and selector pointer on the left arrow the trans will shift through all gears, 1-4, pointer at the right hand arrow will only allow trans to shift through the first 3 gears. I hope that was a clear explanation of what I meant. Best Regards and good luck with all your endeavors, KB.
While the gear selector does have a little play in it, theres only neutral, lo, dr, and reverse. Even my owners manual doesnt mention that. Just 1 drive on mine.
With Autozone just across town, a refund is relatively easy to get and not much fuel or time is wasted...BUT...when ordering from an Internet company, or let's say a transmission company advertising in a rod mag...getting that refund depends on REMOVING said defective parts, packaging it all up and paying for shipping - again. That's where the waste of time comes in and of course, the waste of time removing said defective trans (or other part) and the waste of time putting it back in AFTER several days or weeks of waiting... Having said that, I'd never purchase a large item from any company NOT in my city...I figure there's plenty of people here in my city that can do that job for me without having to go out of town and waiting...and IF it's defective, I can get an immediate refund or new part. R-
Just drove it, adjusted the transmission. Rides like a new car now with these new tires. Steering is SO much easier. Went to the grocery store. Came back out and had a guy ask me a bunch of questions while I was trying to go and then it died on me haha. Started running rough, then shut off. I revved it a few times and it ran a little rough again. Sort've shuttered like it had water in the gas. The carb has been rebuilt so I dont know what the deal is. I have 2 in line fuel filters to prevent junk from the tank (which months back I emptied and hosed out). A little scared to take it out much more like that.
I should also note the trans downshifted for me once, but also one time while flooring it up the hill it upshifted which was strange. Still need to dial it in. From 2 to 3 it rev's a little and then goes in. Which is a new behavior after the adjustment.
It sounds like you are getting close with throttle valve linkage adjustment. The revving on the 2-3 shift is a sign that the bands need adjusting. These adjusters are located on the top of the case left hand side just above the selector "side pan". You may need to pull back the carpet and remove floor ****** cover to access adjusters. Loosen the 3/4" lock nuts and turn the 5/16" square head adjuster bolt a exactly quarter turn clockwise and retighten lock nut being careful to not allow adjuster bolt to turn. Repeat the driving cir***stance that caused the revving during the 2-3 shift. See if the adjustment improved things. You may need to repeat with another 1/4 turn on one or both bands. Be careful to do***ent all the band adjustment changes so you can find your way back if band adjustments cause other shifting anomalies. Be careful because if the adjustment is close to correct an 1/8 turn can be a lot. Drive, put the ****** through it's paces between each adjustment.This is the shade tree way to adjust Hydro bands, as finding the factory recommended tools are nearly pure unobtainium, and finding a shop that knows anything about them is near impossible. This simple process can make all the difference in how the car drives. Best Regards and good luck with all your endeavors, KB.
The strange thing is, that very 2-3 shift clunked before I messed with it. I might mess with the TV rod a little more before I touch the bands
Waxed it today just to help give a little water resistence, and MAN did it wake up the paint compared to before.
nice! i should make mine look that good......or sell it to someone who has the time to make it look that good.
Nice. Mine pretty much looked like that - washed it with a sponge and car soap, dried it, waxed it with mcguires carnuba paste wax. Did wonders considering theres no clear coat
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