Hey everyone, I'm Anthony and this is my first post. My question is simple and yet somewhat challenging because of the options. 1950 Chevy Fleetline Deluxe w/235 straight 6 What "modern" driveline setup is the easiest to acquire, budget friendly and offers a fairly simple installation; wait for it.....while still maintaining the 3 speed column shift? I've seen so many opinions and setups, I can't keep track of all the components. So please do your best to give me a A, B, C, breakdown of components. I'm currently curious about this set up since highway driveability is lacking in a 3 speed. 1969 Saginaw Full Synco 3-speed Borg Warner R10 Overdrive Some type of adapter plate 1967 Nova Differential w/ 308s
261 is just a bigger 235. Physically probably the easiest, but not much increase n horsepower. But it isn't "modern", which is not a problem for the HAMB. If by "modern", you mean an LS swap or something comparable, you are on wrong board. A 230 or 250 straight 6 is a better engine than a 235/261, would require a minimum of fabrication to install, and will easily make small V8 horsepower. Plus with duals, you get the cool exhaust sound. Avoid the integral head 250. 292 is a bigger 6, but is longer. Might create radiator and fan issues. Also fairly thirsty, but good power. At the end the rainbow, a small block Chevy, 283 - 350 is going to be the cheapest and easiest to do. If the Nova rear fits, it is a good choice. I used a 57 chevy rear end in my 48. With a smaller engine or an overdrive, you might want to think about more gear than a 3.08. 55 -57 Chevys with overdrive used 4.11s and 3.73s. I can't speak to the transmission choice.
Let me clarify some. I want to keep the 235. I was referring to the ****** and rear end. I said "modern" because I'm sure that I'll have to go to an open drive shaft.
Modern and 3 on the tree is like oil and water. You can easily change the gear ratio without having to change the entire rear end and still be able to keep that 3 on the tree.
I've only seen the Patrick's 3.55.1:1 gear replacement kit for the factory driveline and was told by a shop that it would be pointless. I'm not too savvy on gear ratios but I know higher ratios (lower numbers) are better for highway drivability. I've read that the factory ratio is in the 4s, and so 3.55s don't sound like a bad option but what do I know.
Not necessarily ... all '54 Powerglide running gear (brakes, steering, rear axle) with a '53 - '54 3 speed would make a whole different car out of it. Better show us the engine - pics ???
Same "year" or so truck bellhousing so the pattern for the Saginaw OD will bolt to it, or a Tri-Five 6 cylinder bellhousing. You want to try and keep the bellhousing support mounts. Finding the Saginaw 3 speed with OB will be the difficult part, they are rare; you could use a Tri-Five Muncie 3-speed with OD. For a six, I think the 3.08 is TOO steep a gear; you want 3.70-4.11. Tri-Five rear end is the easiest; starting to see a pattern there? Any rear you use though will most likely have Bendix style brakes, while the 50 has Huck brakes; to replace them means swapping everything from the backing plates out, or going to disc brakes. I would go with a later style 250 six, keep your current 3-speed, swap to a 3.55 gear in the rear that comes in the Powerglide equipped 49-54 cars, 51-54 will get you Bendix brakes. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Retaining the same engine, any three-speed transmission swap, with the exception of an overdrive, will net net you exactly the same results that you have. A 1:1 high gear ratio is a 1:1 high gear ratio. All the transmissions you have listed have the same third gear ratio. The Saginaw 3-speed gives you a synchro on 1st and a little friendlier low gear curve, but thats about it. The R10, which is just a different tail shaft on your otherwise stock transmission, will lower the drive ratio to the rear by about 15% (most are a 0.85:1 ratio). Your best bet if you want increased speed is a final gear ratio swap (rear end), and tuning the engine to run in the sweet-spot that that rear end nets. The stock ****** is fine, thats why they used them for another decade plus...
I'm definitely going to go through the entire car. It was my Grandfather's and now it's mine. I had planned on moving it to my house to work on it, but the rear brakes were seized and so I had to beat the **** out of the drum to get them free. I also heard a pop when I depressed the clutch, so I think something either freed itself up or broke. The car is not safe at the moment.
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