I'm determined with this one since my other project keeps biting me in the**** with electrical issues! I think tomorrow I might default back to lining up the pointer to the dot for the timing with the vacuum line unhooked. It ran like***** like that but at least it ran without dying on me. I don't want to make too many changes and shoot myself in the foot. After that I'll see where the idle screws are currently set and move them all the way in then out half a turn. I'm wondering if something not so good happened inside the carb when my original FPR took a***** on me. It was******** fuel at the unregulated 7.5 psi it hit.
If it runs better with the choke on, (my opinion) it’s too lean or the choke being on is compensating for a vacuum leak. Since it’s been sitting for awhile, might think of doing a proper rebuild on the carburetor.
Very good points from everyone. If you need to plug the advance to get it to run then you have a vac leak…. It only takes one carb backfire to blow out a power valve…. When you screw in your idle screws all the way in does the engine die or change rpm?? If no change then you have a vac leak. Interesting info on the idle screw adjustments. Start at one and a half rotations. Then go from there. See link DO Not Order a rebuild kit until we definitely sort out and verify proper timing. Here’s that link https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/holley-94-tuning-help.631691/
When it’s carb time order your kit ONLY from this source. There are very good reasons for this. https://vintagespeed.com/
I just pulled a Lincoln out of 10 years of storage with a flathead in it. I went through fuel and distributor and the car idled beautifully. Every time I tried to accelerate it would fall flat on its face and left me stranded in driveway. I finally cut the muffler out and car ran like a champ. Ordered another one from local Napa and installed it and car runs like a champ. Critters had filled the muffler with nut shells and at idle the exhaust would pass through but not at higher flows. The new muffler I bet weighed half as much as the one I pulled out.
In case you haven’t seen this. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/links-to-holley-94-technical-info.286574/
I experienced the same thing with the muffler on this car. I cut the muffler off and straight piped it months ago. That muffler had to be close to 10 pounds. That brings me to something else I noticed this morning. The cross over pipe going from drivers side manifold to the passenger side manifold - the*****erfly spring is undone! Anyone know for certain what direction the counterweight should be in for it to be open 100%? Idle mixture screws were both set just over 1 turn out. Now at 1-1/2 turns out. I had to lower fuel pressure back down to 3.25 psi. I sprayed starting fluid all around the carb and intake with it running and there was no difference in rpm so I have no vacuum leaks-i sprayed the hell out of everything everywhere! With the motor shut off but at 150 degrees I pulled the air filter off, forced the choke open, cranked, no start, squirted some starting fluid in it and it ran, it would die if I wasn't keeping it running using the bottle.
I pulled the top hat off the carb and this is what I found. 2 blown gaskets. The idle mix screws made no difference with the choke on at high rpm on the vacuum gauge. It won't be the first carb I've been inside of... but will be the first non 4 barrel that wasn't a holley or edelbrock. I was comfortable dropping my 460 in place of the flathead until I did a compression test.
If the carb gets beyond you (and these Merc carbs have a way of doing it), there is a user on "The Ford Barn" SCICALA" who is a whiz with them.
I just tore the whole carb apart. I cleaned it inside and out. There was nothing that wasn't clogged in it! I was able to save a couple gaskets and I'll admit I used blue gasket maker on everything I couldn't save. I just want to make it run, then I'll make it right! Here's the inside of the carb... it's a wonder how it even ran! The second picture is cleaned up and ready to go in, I'll be doing that by the time you read this.
Okay, if I may. That carburetor needs to be properly cleaned. Soaked, etc then blown out (all passages). The put back together without goop, gaskets only. It’s not Saturday night and you’re running late to pick up a chick. Do it right and be done with it. @carbking can explain better than I can, and so many others can as well.
I was able to sort out my 8ba problems that were initially similar to yours. But the carb was rebuilt. . We had the distributor too far advanced. Running like a charm. I realized at that time I gave you incorrect info on setting the distributor timing with the vac gauge. The distributor rotates clockwise to advance.
Good news! She runs and purrrrrrssss now!!! I put the timing back on the mark. Fuel pressure at 4 psi, idle is very low which I never had before, it fires up great! I'm going to drive it around the yard soon!! The bad news is I broke the metal vacuum advance line and it's not advancing! I'm going to wrap it in tape and I'll make it right soon! Everyone thank you so very much for your help! I couldn't have done it without you guys guiding me!
I think there's still a bit of potential for confusion here. Try thinking of it this way. If the distributor shaft spins clockwise when running, then to advance the timing you need to rotate the distributor housing counter-clockwise. And just the opposite if the shaft spins CCW when running.
I had my wife record me looking like an idiot in my yard! Allow me to introduce you guys to the Rusty Roly Poly that you've helped bring back to life!!
Depending on where the pipe is broken, you may just as easily use a bit of vacuum hose to splice the ends together. Make sure the ends of the pipe are open and not twisted or crimped closed. If need be you could cut the ends back a little to where the tube is unrestricted. You might even want to just leave the hose in place to help prevent the same damage from happening again while working on it..
My quote didnt work... this ws referring to Budget36... I do not disagree with this at all. Between me and a bucket of simple green it's probably never been cleaner. Keep in mind this was just to get it running... it is Saturday night and my date lives with me. I needed to know it ran. I slapped some electrical tape on it for a minute lmao. It's just one more thing on the now make it right list.
It great to see it moving and lively. How cool is that. You accomplished a heck of a lot in a small time period. Great work.
Thanks! Thats one nice car youve got! I couldn't resist it. My wife and I put the hood on and cruised it about 15 miles. No issues with anything other than the OD isn't working, turn signals don't flash and brake lights are hard to see... not to mention it's hot in that thing cruising but that's all for another day. I'm as happy as can be for now.
Tubman has a valid point here. I think these guys have very valid points here. The aftermarket parts for these things have changed so much (a lot of junk out there) that contacting the guru on Fordbarn and carbking would be a wise choice. You realize a half**** rebuild is on a short lease here. I’d guess your oil is full of gas and your tank is full of rust.
I understand all of this. From my last few post it may seem as if I'm a hack and don't care. Nothing will be forgotten about and will be repaired properly. There was gas in the engine, not now, full oil change with filter was done and I plan to do another oil change after driving yesterday. It did not gain any level after driving it around. The fuel tank, pump and pump wiring, filter, regulator, sending unit, lines and any rubber within the fuel system is brand new. I put all new ss brake lines, rubber lines, shoes, master cylinder, and all the wheel cylinders are new followed by new tires. Yesterday was finally the day of proof I needed to be fully commit to the rest of the things it needs now.
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