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52-59 Ford Owners Group FAQ's

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by corncobcoupe, Sep 25, 2025.

  1. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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    corncobcoupe
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  2. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
    Posts: 8,660

    corncobcoupe
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    THIS IS AN OPTION FOR YOUR DELETED SOCIAL GROUP.

    You 52-59 fellas get together and figure out if you want Technical or General info posts or mix it all together.

    Moriarity and I are trying to keep the peace and not get the Ford Barn all riled up if at all possible with Off Topic over there.
     
  3. Okie Pete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2008
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    Okie Pete
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  4. Okie Pete
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    Okie Pete
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  5. Okie Pete
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    Okie Pete
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  6. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
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    bobss396
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  7. John Bowen
    Joined: Dec 24, 2024
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    John Bowen

    I'm more of a reader than a poster, but I'll take whatever show up here.
    Thanks, John
     
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  8. down-the-road
    Joined: Aug 19, 2012
    Posts: 21,768

    down-the-road
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Pictures from a couple of cruises in western PA this summer. Maybe some members know or own these cars?
    upload_2025-9-26_13-27-24.png

    upload_2025-9-26_13-27-39.png

    upload_2025-9-26_13-27-55.png

    upload_2025-9-26_13-28-17.png

    upload_2025-9-26_13-28-33.png

    upload_2025-9-26_13-29-12.png

    I wish getting information saved here from the 52-59 Ford social group stickies was as easy as posting these pictures. Can anyone help with that? Thanks.
     
  9. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,558

    evintho
    Member

    Thanks corncob! Now I can post without fear of getting deleted!

    P1010005.JPG

    My build thread is in 'Off Topic' so I appreciate that. These are the two reasons why my posts got deleted on the main board and, I can see why...............

    P1010002_8 (2).JPG

    EPS mounted1.JPG

    EPS 1.JPG
     
  10. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 36,912

    Moriarity
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    I am going to start pasting the FAQ stuff here, please don't interrupt by posting while I am doing it. this may take a while
     
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  11. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 36,912

    Moriarity
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    Note regarding forum update - A bunch of the links were broken when the forum was updated, and with no search function in the social forums, finding these links isn't easy. I've updated a bunch of them, but if you find a good forum post discussing one of the items that says "need link", feel free to PM me the link and I can make the update. Thanks!

    Hey guys,

    So, I was thinking it would be great if we had a sticky thread full of answers to the most common questions posted here. Sort-of a repository of all of the great info that has been found by the gurus who have already done it. I know it would be super helpful for me.

    What do you guys think of this? I’ll start a list of all of the info I’ve complied so far for my car and maybe we can just keep adding to it over time…

    Disclaimer - There is a lot of variation and inconsistency on cars built nearly 60 years ago on multiple different assembly lines around the country. In other words, what fits perfectly on one '52-56 Ford may not necessarily fit perfectly on another '52-56 Ford. Some fitment and modification may be needed.

    Also, I have tried my best to compile accurate information to the best of my knowledge and reading comprehension, however I have also included a link (where possible) to the thread discussing this info so you can do your own reading and determine if the item listed is correct for you. If you see an error, something that needs clarification, or if you can confirm the suggestion works for a particular model/year not listed, please let me know (via PM) and I will update.
    MOTOR SWAPS
    5.0 EFI swap http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/Engine.htm
    Small Block Ford, AKA SBF (260/289/302/351W)
    FE Ford: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/ford-fairlane-500-1957-engine-swap-v6-to-fe390.953789/
    Notes - 260/289/302 engines are your best bet for an easy fit. 351W engines will fit, however they are slightly wider at the heads, which may cause clearance issues (such as headers, steering box, etc). Head and block info:
    http://diyford.com/ford-cylinder-heads-valvetrain-interchange-small-block/
    Clearance between the water pump pulley and radiator can be tight, especially when using the v-belt 70-78 Windsor pump (5.700" hub to base). For v-belt applications, a short water pump (5.440" hub to base, pass side inlet, 65-73 SBF and some later tucks) should be used. A Ford Motorsport M-8501-E351S can also be used for even more clearance. The FMS short pump will require custom pulleys, available from CVS Racing
    Depending on the thickness of the radiator used, and the water pump used, an electric cooling fan may be required
    Motor/Trans Mounts ('54+)
    - 1986 Lincoln MKII/Thunderbird/Mustang 5.0, Anchor part # 2725 (L) and 2726 (R)
    - 1963 Falcon 260 mounts, Anchor # 2220 (L) and 2221 (R) - In my experience, these are a better option if you are having firewall/trans tunnel clearance issues, as they position the engine lower and further forward. These are the mounts I used with my '54 302/T5 swap because I was running into firewall/throttle linkage clearance issues with the Lincoln mounts.
    - Prothane 6-501-BL - Prothane Motor & Transmission Mounts - The matching mount for C4 or AOD is this: http://www.jegs.com/i/Prothane/311/6-1605/10002/-1?parentProductId=762286
    - T5 transmission mounts - Energy Suspension 3-1109G(need link). I ended up using a universal trans mount kit (Prothane#311-6-501-BL) on the stock crossmember for my '54 w/302/T5.
    - Butch's Cool Stuff also offers a bolt-on engine/trans mount kit... SBF in a 17" 52/53, SBF in a 15" 52/53, SBC in a 52/53, 54/56 V8, 54/56 I6, and others. They also offer a 5% discount for group members or a 10% discount for HAMB alliance members.
    Y-Block Swap in a 52-53 Ford Scroll down to post #21 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/anybody-got-a-y-block-in-a-shoebox.177373/
    Notes
    - Here is an album with good photos of the minor modifications that need to be made to the motor mount pads on the factory crossmember for '54+ cars when using the factory style SFB mounts above.
    - Polyurethane mounts are less prone to separation than the Anchor parts that are now made in India/China.
    - Above applications are for 260/289/302 swaps. For 351W swaps, clearance may be an issue. See Rockabillykat666's thread part 1, and part 2 regarding 351W fitment experiences and ideas.
    1952-54 Ford gas tanks These always seem hard to get and cost more,Good News! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1955-gas-tank-in-a-54.985110/
    Oil Pan
    - '52 and '53 Fords - dual sump oil pan from a fox-body Mustang.
    - '54-'56 Fords - front sump oil pan should be used (use Melling 68-S pickup).
    Fuel Gauge Tips: http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=159/mode=cat/cat159.htm

    Speedo Cables Here is a chart showing the lengths and the ends and the part numbers you will ATP brand at PepBoys and O'Reilly's and Autozone. Most common used here is the ATP Y-801 http://atpautomotive.com/cables?subcategory=713
    Guides to 6 volt to 12 volt conversions: file:///home/jeffb2/Downloads/6%20volt%20electrical%20system%20conversion.pdf And also this: https://darksidersrealm.forumotion....lt-positive-ground-to-12-volt-negative-ground

    Headers
    -
    - Hedman Part # 88400 (1949-59 Ford cars) actually listed for a 1965-69 Mustang 289-302 No clearance issues with these and actually better steering box clearance than most manifolds offer,usually best deal is this place: These are a copycat of the Patriot H8433. https://www.ebay.com/itm/325704465751?



















    Another one that fits: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...hikZQ4Kl9ABF2IwjXVuVgLIKNnJEfQAs24aAmSx8P8HAQ
    Pictures of the fit: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/another-sbf-header-for-53-woohoo.1058469/ NOTE: These Patriot headers are NOT a direct fit on a 351W as we found out later use them ONLY for a 302/5.0 swap.
    Headers for a 302/5.0 swap with GT40P heads https://www.ebay.com/itm/Small-Bloc...40P-/271014972300?hash=item3f19c04b8c&vxp=mtr
    Radiators

    See Page 5 of this "Sticky"for pictures of a radiator swap.
    Early Mustang radiators seems to almost bolt in;

    1964-66 measures 16 3/8" X 19 7/8"
    1967-69 measures 16 3/8" X 16 7/8"

    V6 rad has pass side top port and driver side lower port and V8 rad has both ports on the pass side. If buying a V8 Mustang radiator, these measurements are for the small block (289/302) radiators). 390/427 radiators are bigger. NEW ! 11/25/20 If you are running the early short 289 water pump or have the 223 Six cylinder now there is a radiator that is a direct bolt in for 1952-56 Fords: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Row-Perf...949-1953-Ford-Cars-Chevy-Engine/123914986055? ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 Thanks ! To member Greaser 35

    Ebay has loads of inexpensive options, many with custom options like bigger ports, multiple cores, with or w/o trans cooler ports, etc.
    Water Pumps and pulleys and Harmonic Balancers: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sbf-short-water-pump-pulleys.303600/
    ElectricFans for clearance: http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/cooling-articles/482048-junkyard-upgrade-dual-electric-fans.html
    Steering and Brakes
    • Thermactor Plug (required for adapting 5/8"-11 holes on some newer and aftermarket heads to 7/16"-14 for alternator/power steering pump mounting. Ford PN F4ZZ-6E086-A, over $20/ea at the dealer - Thermactor Plug set of 4
    • Disc brake kits and power brake boosters using Granada or Camaro parts and modified spindles can be found on Ebay.
    • Dual Bowl Master Cylinder Conversion :( Sadly the member that posted this on youtube removed it,sharing it has helped a lot of guys over the years we thank him for sharing it while it lasted but sure wish he would have left it up.
    • This may help in the meantime see post #6 here https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tonight-i-am-not-happy.1103171/#post-12515347 with a 1952-56 you will need a 20" section of 3/16" brake line for the new line you will be adding and some adapter fittings.
    Suspension
    • Drop Spindles
      • Fat Man Fabrications - '54-'76 Ford Drop Spindles (not listed in their catalog or on their website, so you may need to call or email).
      • Drop N Stop - '54-'64 Fod/Merc or '55-'60 T-Bird. 1.5" or 2.5" drops available. Also available with disc brakes.
    Springs and shocks.
    • Aerostar springs - Moog PN CC850 ('90 Ford Aerostar van) Lowers 2.5" - 3" Front on all 1949-59 Ford cars
    • '49-'59 - KYB Gas-A-Just KG4503 Front(Stock or 2" lowered) With Aerostar coils Ask members on the forum for advice the KYB KG5514's seem to be causing some issues so I no longer can recommend them and KG5517 (R) (stock) lowered? The Gabriel 82026 for the front seems to be fine as they are shorter than the OEM shocks. See below thread)
    • For Gabriel gas shocks fronts are 82026 and rear 81270 if you carry passengers in the rear you may add the Gabriel High Jacker air shock part# 49105
    1954-59 Ford IFS Rebuild Articles (thanks Baggs)
    - Parts 1, 2, and 3
    1954-56 1 1/8" SWAY BAR https://www.larrystbird.com/product/front-sway-bar-kit-5456-1-18/
    WHEEL BACKSPACING: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/wheel-backspacing.999008/


    Note
    - You can also get a free inch or two by removing the lower A-arm spring plate from the arm (drill out rivets) and inserting 1" square bar stock drilled and bolted between the plate and arm. Here is an example.(need link)

    Helpful Stuff for Y-Block Fans: http://yblockguy.com/

    Parts upgrades
    Electrical Tips: http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

    One wire Alternators tech http://www.rodauthority.com/tech-st...rs-are-they-better-or-just-easier-to-hook-up/
    T5 Swaps : http://www.hemmings.com/magazine/mus/2004/07/T-5-Transmission-swaps/1280831.html
    6 to 12 volt conversion: http://darksidersrealm.forumotion.c...lt-positive-ground-to-12-volt-negative-ground

    Restoration Part Sources & Catalogs
    Be aware that many of these vendors are now using offshore rubber goods from China and India that do not hold up well,best advice ask before you order.
    MACs Auto Parts
    Bob Drake Reproductions
    Dennis Carpenter
    Obsolete & Classic Auto Parts
    C&G Early Ford Parts
    Joblot Automotive
    Tee-Bird Products Inc (has pass car parts also)
    Larry's Thunderbird & Mustang Parts (has pass car parts also)
    John Mummert's Y-block parts
    Steele Rubber,mostly USA made but more costly,again ask before you buy.
    Vintage Ford Parts sources http://www.vintagepartsource.com/ford parts.htm
    Sheet Metal/Replacement Panels
    EMS Automotive
    http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/9InchAxles.shtml TECH on 9" Ford rears
    Detailed Specs/Information
    Help for those with the 223 Six motors: http://fordsix.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=18

    A great resource for detailed specs and info for almost any car made after 1945.

    Thanks to Retro Jim, JeffB2, old lady's mad, Fairlane Dave and others for all the great info that has helped me a ton! Post up any other great info you have and we can add to the list and hopefully we can make this a sticky. Also the best money you can spend on your Ford is the Ford Parts Manual it is in two parts,one shows all the part numbers and part two has blown up illustrations of where all the parts are located,by using the part number and Google you can track down the parts and find the best deals, to get one at a price better than even ebay contact our member here:http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/members/danman55.70276/ Dave may even have a bonus for you. More about Ford Engine swaps: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...yet-incomplete-ford-v8-swappers-guide.199198/ MEMBERS MAP : TO FIND MEMBERS IN YOUR AREA: https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?ll=28.030920659148595,-109.79292485848384&z=4&mid=1wZ6B6pRQk4kRkwcXIhqGEfPNwpc
     
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  12. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 36,912

    Moriarity
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    How to figure rear end ratio: https://www.rodauthority.com/news/whats-gear-ratio-find-out/
    Explorer rear ends will fit just have to move the spring saddles a little. Get a 97 - 01 and get disc brakes. 96 down get drum brakes.

    Ranger rears work also but the spring saddles are on top and need to be moved to the bottom . Rangers have smaller brakes.
    HOW TO NARROW the 8.8" http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/8-8-rearend.1051093/
    . 9" rear end facts:http: //www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/9InchAxles.shtmlhttp://

    if going with the power booster kit . get a double diaphram booster not a single.

    mid 80s tbird trans mount works also.

    heater core # 399025 availible at most parts stores. very slight modification to the housing using a round file.

    mid 80s tbird sway bar for a swaybar upgrade.

    cheapest place to get rear springs is jcwhitneys. HERE is some great info on what to look for when shopping for an 8.8 http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Ford-8_8-axle.shtml and how to narrow without welding: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/explorer_8-8_swap_no_welding.shtml more 8.8 Tech here: http://www.thefabricatorseries.com/...d-explorer-88-rear-axle-part-1-prelude-and-qa
     
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  13. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
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    Moriarity
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    Actually , Ford 8" rears from 65 to 69 Mustangs along with Mavericks , Comets will fit .
    The 9" Ford rears from 1957 to 59 from cars & wagon will fit along with Cougar rears from 67 to 69 will fit to .
    You need the rear to measure 57" give or take 1/2" from the outside of the brake drum to the other brake d
    Jim, Here is another chart from Hemmings http://www.hemmings.com/partslocator/axles.html Newer 8" info: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1952-56-rear-end-swap.1026934/#post-11623044 UPDATE https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/ford-8-in-differential-carriers.
     
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  14. Moriarity
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    Moriarity
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  15. Moriarity
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    Moriarity
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  16. Moriarity
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    So..... the ranger rearends work what years?? they have the small ford bolt pattern right? Thanks in advance, Here is a link to that http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/index-axles.shtml Also you can narrow an 8.8 easily there is a youtube video that shows how they do the 7.5's and the same will apply as both have a long and a short axle,the axle tubes are not real thick so weld with as low a temp as possible. VIDEO is Here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/8-8-rearend.1051093/ Narrowing the 8.8" Two Part video

    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 14, 2019
    Highway Horrors
     
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  17. Moriarity
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    Moriarity
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  18. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
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    Moriarity
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    Regarding Ranger rear axles; look for 1990-92 are 56.5", they got wider after that. Also, look for a super cab 4X4. The four cylinder and some small sixes had the small rear end, (7.5) which may be OK for putzing around, but the small brakes had trouble stopping a Ranger. The ten inch brakes will bolt on any housing, find the backing plates and drums off the same donnor. The 8.8 in my 55 is 56 5/8 outside to outside. It came with a 3.73 Traction Loc. Ranger and 8.8 axle information is here: http://therangerstation.com/tech_library/index-axles.shtml

    Last edited by a moderator: May 7, 2017
    Ole don, Jul 13, 2011EditHistoryDeleteIPWarn!Report!
     
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  19. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
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    Moriarity
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    Here are some rear end widths for better upgrades . You might have to make some changes for spring & shock perches but this will give you a good start . There are also some good 9" rears that started in 1957 as well as some that were in the early to later 60's Mustangs & Cougars that will fit under you Fords as well ! There are some good rears to look for below that will work also from other makes of cars . Mopars had very strong rears as I used them before and never broke one either . I am referring to the 8 & 3/4"sure grip rears .
    A Ford 8" rear will hold just about anything you put to them up to about 500 HP . After that I HIGHLY recommend a Ford 9" rear ! Also another really great rear were the mid to later 50's Olds rears . They were great drag rears that held up very well too .

    I hope this list will help many out with their projects ! Choosing a rear end ratio: https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator

    Jim





    Ford Outside
    WidthYearModel

    56.50--1969-1977 Maverick 8"
    57.00--1974-1978 Mustang II 8"
    57.25--1957-1959 Ford, Ranchero, Station Wagon
    57.25--1965-1966 Mustang
    58.00--1966-1977 Bronco
    58.00--1964-1965 Falcon
    58.00--1977-1981 Granada/Versailles
    58.50--1977-1981Versailles
    59.25--1967-1970Mustang, Fairlane, Comet, Cougar
    60.00--1967 Cougar
    60.00--1958-1960--Edsel
    61.00--1964-1971 Ford Full Size
    61.00--1949-1951 Mercury
    61.25--1957-1972 Ford F-100 Pickup
    61.25--1960-1964 Ford Full Size
    61.25--1971-1973 Mustang
    61.25--1967-1973 Torino, Ranchero, Fairlane
    63.00--1970-1979 Ranchero & Torino
    63.00--1972-1979 Ford Full Size & Intermediate
    63.50--1967 Fairlane (Coil Springs)
    65.25--1973-1986 Ford F-150 Pickup
    65.25--1978-1986 Bronco
    65.25--1973-1986 Ford Van 3/4 Ton
    68.00--1972 Ford Van 3/4 Ton
    69.25--1977-1986Ford E-150 Van

    Outside
    Width Year Model

    54.25--1983-2004 Chevy S10 2WD, GMC S15 2WD
    57.75--1962-1964 Chevy II/Nova
    57.75--1965-1967 Chevy II/Nova
    58.00--1978-1988 Chevy Malibu, Monte Carlo
    59.50--1968-1982 Corvette
    60.00--1955-1964 Chevy Car
    60.00--1967-1969 Camaro
    60.25--1968-1979 Chevy II/Nova
    60.50--1984-1995 Corvette
    60.50--1964-1967 Chevelle
    62.00--1955-1959 Chevy Pickup
    62.50--1968-1972 Chevelle
    62.50--1970-1981 Camaro/Firebird
    Mopar Outside
    WidthYearModel

    55.60--1960-1976--7 1/4 A-body
    55.60--1973-1976--8 1/4 A-body
    55.60--1966-1972--8 3/4 A-body
    55.60--All--8 3/4 A-body
    56.00--1932-1934 -All Mopars
    57.40--1963-1977--8 1/4 A-body
    58.54--All--8 1/4-F-body
    58.54--All--8 1/4- M-body
    58.54--All--8 1/4- J-body
    59.00--1935-1936-- All Mopars
    59.14--1966-1972--9 3/4- B-body
    59.20--1962-1972--8 3/4- B-body
    60.00--1937-1948-- All Mopars
    60.70--All--8 3/4- E-body
    60.70--All--9 3/4- E-body
    62.00--All--8 1/4- B-body
    62.00--1971--1974-8 3/4- B-body
    62.00--All--9 1/4- B-body
    63.40--All--8 1/4- C-body
    63.40--1971-1974--8 3/4- B-body S.W.
    63.40--Al-l-9 1/4- C-body

    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 19, 2019
    Retro Jim, Sep 6, 2011EditHistoryDeleteIPWarn!Report!
     
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  20. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
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    Moriarity
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    1. Here is a heater hose that will take care of the problem when you run a hei in a 302 eng. Use heater hose number nbh 9813, this is a long one or nbh 9806, this is a short one they have a 90 degree bend on one end use a straight heater hose nipple in the manifold these are napa numbers this worked fine in my 55
      slicks

      Slicks, Sep 6, 2011EditDeleteIPWarn!Report!
      SHARE POST#10Like+ QuoteReply

     
  21. Moriarity
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  22. Moriarity
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  23. Moriarity
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  24. Moriarity
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  25. Moriarity
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    how can one tell if they have the long or short water pump by looking? and is it possible to fit the 65-69 pump and balancer on a later 302 (80s early 90s) if any of us has one? Yes,the early pump has a passenger side lower hose the long pump is 1970 and later and the lower hose is drivers side,you must match the year of the pump to the same years of pulleys,Ford also made three different length of balancers to make things more confusing. This will explain it in detail,scroll down to my post:http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sbf-short-water-pump-pulleys.303600/

    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 29, 2015
    dwaynerz, Jan 29, 2012
     
  26. Moriarity
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    Great youtube video on the dual master conversion here was removed by previous member :( Any way the master cylinder we recommend for drum brakes is the Duralast M1485 from Autozone (Why a rebuilt ?) That is because most new ones are now made in China or India and the castings, are not always that accurate internally,the rebuilts are usually USA made Bendix or Raybestos look underneath for markings.

    Last edited: Aug 28, 2018
    JeffB2, Mar 19, 2012
     
  27. Moriarity
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    Moriarity
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  28. Moriarity
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    New guy question based on Retro Jim's Front Disc brake grocery list above. Why do you recommend using '80 Monte Carlo calipers with the '78 Granada rotors? Why not stay with the '78 Granada calipers as well? Guessing it has to do with the master cylinder you also listed but I just want to understand it before making a purchase.
    Thanks

    Dos Cincos, Apr 17, 2012
     
  29. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 36,912

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

  30. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 36,912

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    If I recall the caliper is larger and you would gain a larger pad contact area= better stopping.

    JeffB2, Apr 17, 2012
     

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