Projects 52 Dodge B3B Hemi Project

There is specialty oil for break in with ZDDP in it.

 

I got that part, was looking for brands, weights actually.

 

JOE GIBBS & lUCAS ARE THE ****

 

Can't make specific recommendations, but as long as it has the Zinc, I'd go with as thin an oil as they have.

 

awesome, thanks. Any recommendations on weight? I am thinking 10-30.

 

Here are some pics



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Another - lokar linkage




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This is the top part of my trans cover, 4 parts in all. I made a metal mopar "M" which is bolted to the plate.



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I mounted the fuel pump to the p***enger side inside frame rail.



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the headers were a tight fit but worked out well. I will have to reroute the p*** side front break line but other than that it is ok.

 

Most engine builders will use straight 30w...not even sure if oil labeled as 'break-in' is available in multi-weight.
Be sure to change the oil after the first hour or two and cut the filter open and look around.

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thanks Gary, I have a local machine shop that carries Joe Gibbs break in oil, so I will probably use that. I don't know if there are multiple weights or not but I will see what they say.

 

Been trying to keep moving on this truck, I bought the stage 8 fasteners with the locking tabs, however the tabs don't work on an old hemi bc of the way the tubes and bolts are laid out. Therefore I came up with an alternate solution; drilled a small hole in the corner of the locking tab and safety wired them..




Yes the header is close to the steering support but it isn't hitting.


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I also got the pinion angle set, rear perches welded and am now working on the u joints. I am going to build some kind of snubber while I am back there as well.


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got the snubber built, then realized I did so with the rear suspension hanging... so I had to go back in and rebuild it so I had clearance at ride height. Got the fuel regulator mounted, so now it is back to the wiring and running the fuel lines. I would have got more done but I had to cut up an old Leer topper that was an eye sore.

Today was definitely "one of those days"; broke my new Dodge coffee mug first thing, then I broke the hood ornament off my new Kubota tractor, then the snubber deal, and on it went...

 

Here is a pic of the snubber.

The suspension is unloaded in this pic which is why there is so much distance. I am thinking I am going to have to run some air bags. Problem there is space.


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...'ya know, if you keep this up you'll get the truck finished... then what will you do?

.

 

lol, not exactly something I worried about at this stage. I still have my Cuda and 70 Roadrunner to do. That said, I just found a 48 Dodge 1 ton with flatbed locally for $1150... and a 48 COE for $3k... I am kidding, I have more than enough to do as it is and to be honest I am getting a little tired of fabricating. I need to get this truck done and off my lift.

 

Built this cool fuel filter bracket








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found out that the lokar shifter instructions are a bit lacking for the 727, while mine shifts, it isn't hitting the right gates so I need to spend some time adjusting it. Got the engine wiring done today, also got the fuel regulator installed and 1/2 of the fuel line made and installed.

 

My new switch panel



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Be careful of the front ride hight I fabbed in a 78 Trans Am subframe in my 52 B2B and did not consider ride hight all is good but too low was forced to make a progressive angled body lift of 2.5 inches at front Radiator support to stock at the back of cab to keep the fenders from s****ing the tires when I turn then replaced the front springs with 800lb racing springs to control the bumpidy and s****e from there everything else snowballed now 10 years later I am going to redoo it all again to make it more cruiser friendly and not beat you to death with the heavy springs.

 

appreciate the information. Currently I am using stock front springs which I did cut a little. It is low all the way around and it could be too low but time will tell. I do have a back up plan which is to replace the front springs and bag the rear if need be.

 

Got most of the fuel line done



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Here is what the new switch panel will look like



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I still have to get the heater core sorted out, I "believe" it leaks some and I have some sealer that I have on good authority works well.

 

Aluma-Seal has always worked well for me.

 

Might give it a try. I am going to try this Moroso Ceramic seal; a friend of mine in the resto business has been using it frequently and says it has worked well for them. the difference though is that they use it on a running vehicle, I have to rig something up to heat the water and pump it through the heater core.

 

Got the fuel lines done and half of the trans lines. I ordered some of the "mag daddy" devices, going to see how they work out. They look pretty cool and beat drilling holes everywhere.

 

I finished the trans hard lines, I will use soft like from them to the trans cooler once I get that installed.



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