Ask and ye shall receive. I cut down the outside skins from the 1 ton. I haven't filled in the sheet metal yet. The fenders are going to be much lower in relation to the panel sides than stock as I've raised up the panel sides to match the body lines of the cab. The fenders are going to be a splice of the 1/2 ton and the panel truck fenders which look very different from each other. The panel truck fenders are too flat and the 1/2 ton fenders are too rounded for my taste so I'll merge the two together (did I make that sounds easy?? hopefully my skills will catch up with my sheet metal ambitions by the time I actually do this). Don't worry, I'm not cutting up any good fenders, all the fenders I have are pretty beat up. Originally I was going to have taller bed sides that lined up with the belt line right below the cab door window (top white tape on the bed sides in second photo) but it was just too tall...... So I cut it down to match the top of the inner panel sides. You can see in this photo below where the top of the inner panel sides ends. It actually worked our really well as I don't need to fab an extension to the inners and it makes a good bed depth. Here is my patchwork to make the inner bedsides. I wanted it to look somewhat stock but I don't have a bead roller so I couldn't just fab something up. I have since come to believe a bead roller is a must and I've seen guys beef up the harbor freight unit and add a motor. I have a little DC motor that is geared perfect for it so I will do that. while we are talking about the bed (I guess its just me talking tho), I should mention that I'm planning a tilt-bed so I can have easy access to my powertrain. Did I mention that; 8.1L+C5 transaxle+Ford truck IRS+custom components= blown-up parts? I'm planning for a lot of future repair access.
That's why we share! 2003-2006 Expeditions had the cool cast aluminum arms that I like. Post 2006 it was still IRS but they changed the design to something less elegant in my opinion and they went to stamped steel instead of cast aluminum but I'm sure it still performs. I used the whole frame, but they built those hydroformed frames in two sections, a font and a back, so you can remove the rear frame-section and graft it in to something else. Cleaner than the corvette cradle to install, has a truck ride-height and its really well engineered stuff.
Jake , your ideals are blowing me away . I made my bed a tilt also and it does make it nice to work on everything under the bed . Bead rollers do make it easier. And I too am waiting to do my bed sides till later when my skills improve . You are on a roll and should be done soon . And I was talking about snow . I'll be keeping an eye on you and learning as you go . Blue
The mock ups look fantastic. I like your first idea of lining up the beltlines, but admittedly, I'm not standing beside it to feel the full impact of the dimensions. It looks like GMC could have built it that way. Either way, the panel truck donor panels were simply a stroke of genius!
"That's why we share!" --- There are many I am sure who are thankful you do. Reading these various build forums is equivalent to attending a college course on "How To Build A Cool COE", Theory lectures anyways. Hopefully I will p*** the Lab Exams once I start to apply these lessons to my own project. Truly though, I am learning so very much from the posts. I am feeling more and more confident about my own planning, even if those decisions have changed a few times due to reading some recent post on this or that build site. But that is all good! even the discussions about tubing size can confirm my own perceptions are sound. I have written this before, will say it again... THANK YOU for sharing! Thank you for taking the additional time to post ideas, descriptions, photos. My thanks relate to each and every COE builder here on HAMB. I am hoping to be able to contribute at least some sort of build posts later this year if my own planning gets closer to the execution, Lab Exams. Still looking for a rear end and as yet undecided regarding steering/front suspension options.
ok, lets talk frame modifications. I think I already mentioned that I shortened the frame. Next I bobbed the rear frame extensions and the front frame horns as the rear stuck out too far and the front was too high for my radiator and front bumper. The frame sections behind the rear-most crossmember were removed (bottom of the photo). you can see in the next photo where the frame was cut. I'm saving the receiver hitch for later on. I think I can make it work with the bobbed frame. What good is a truck if you can't haul a buddy's trailer queen to the car show?? Observant readers will note that this photo is still showing the 04 expedition differential in it. whereas the one above shows something that looks like a corvette differential.....hmmm....I may be getting out of sequence with my photos. Front frame horns are cut off at the suspension crossmember. They will be trimmed, spliced, rotated and relocated on the crossmember. Next I cut out the two midships crossmembers. The tubular one had a differential reaction arm attached to it to keep the diff from rotating under load. I don't really remember what the flat-ish crossmember was for, it supported the gas tank but I don't think the body was mounted to it. Maybe just for frame torsional stiffness?? With the way it runs through the framerails and is welded both sides, that would be my guess. I tossed the tubular one to the side (It also absorbed lots of IRS loading so I'll need to replace it with something at some point) but the rectangular one I flipped over, dropped, lengthened, strengthened and relocated as my engine mount xmember.
A buddy and I had wondered about the ford truck IRS's. LOVE watching you tackle it! Subscribed..... JML
Hey guys, I need some advice. I've been thinking about front bumper options off and on for a long time and finally settled on a 2010 Ford F250 front bumper for the following reasons:; shape fits the front clip well and width/curvature doesn't need to be modified I like the ventilated style (holes) as I think wire mesh, lights and tow hooks may be cool at some point I think the original front bumper doesn't look substantial enough I started coping it into the front clip and I think it looks good but the problem is that because the bumper is taller than the original, the bottom of the bumper is lower than the bottom of the steps so the lower line of the vehicle is not continuous. If I raise the bumper up to match the steps, then the grill gets too crowded. The lower edge of the bumper is about 3-4" lower than the steps. Please take a look at the photos and tell me what you think. the edge of the bumper that gets close to the tire will be trimmed back to the line I drew. I want the edge of the bumper to also help define the wheel-well curvature.
I like it. I like it A LOT!! Not sure it really matters that it's lower than the step, but I'd need to be further away to really get a feel for it. How about a side shot? The other benefit of the lower bumper is that is makes the truck appear lower.
I agree with both wetskier and Blue, the lower bumper will give a lower look to the truck and rub before the oilpan. I don't think the lack of a straight line from bumper the the bottom step will be noticeable, unless you lay the step on the ground. LOL
Thanks guys, that helps a ton! I hadn't thought of the bumper as a feeler for the oilpan but that actually makes a ton of sense. My oilpan is at about 10" and the bottom of the bumper is 9.5" so that should work out well. I'll add a skidplate for the oilpan but would like to avoid testing it! Here are some other views;
I tend to be rather critical of proportions and aesthetics, but I gotta say I think that bumper looks great at that ride height.
Jake ,what are the measurements for that bumper . W,h , and offset front to back ? Still trying to decide on my front one that needs to go with my rear . Blue
Blue, its 76" wide, 12" high and 14" deep. Probably too wide for you in stock form but there are flat sections of the bumper that can be easily shortened. I'm taking about 3" off the depth to shape my wheel well and that won't be a tough mod. Based on the fabrication I've seen on your build thread, it would be a piece of cake for you to modify this bumper. Jake
The 76" would work great it's the 12" height that would not look right with my grill . What did you do with the one that came with the truck in your avatar? If you still have it I would be interested to buy if you want to sell . Pm me if interested. Blue
Its flat down the face so you could rip it longwise, reduce the height and weld back together. Its really easy for me to suggest when I'm not the one who has to do it...
I'd like to get some input regarding the gas tank location. I'm using a 40 gallon tank from a 2005 Ford Excursion because I'm feeding a very thirsty 8.1l vortec, the fuel pump ***embly can be easily upgraded for higher flow and so that I can brag about having a 40 gallon gas tank! I'm 90% sure I'll be mounting it UNDER the cab for the following reasons; I don't have enough room for a large gas tank behind the rear axle due to bed length The safest location for a gas tank is in FRONT of the rear axle and between the framerails (we all remember the pinto) Mounting under the cab would provide the best weight distribution for 250 lbs of fuel. The Excursion tank has a wrap-around 1/8" skidplate that goes about 1/2 way up all sides. It has reinforcing ribs and weighs about 80lbs. The thing is stout. The reasons why I'm concerned about putting it there are; the tank would be close to electronics (possible ignition source) the tank would be close to the front of the engine (heat source) fumes may become trapped under the cab (possible emergency cab ejection source) The reasons why I will probably ignore my concerns are; electronics and electrical components are typically well sealed as is the fuel system. Tank vents will be routed high under the hood. I'm planning a sheet metal heat shield between the tank and engine modern tanks are designed to be mounted under the cab/cabin of most vehicles. Practically all SUVs have them under the cabin. Please let me know your thoughts. Here are some pics.
The big difference, in my opinion, between your proposed setup and nearly every SUV on the road is that if the fuel tank leaks, it's spraying the engine in your case. On a typical SUV, it will just spray the rear pumpkin and the unfortunate cars following. How about dual tanks in the bed, one on each side just forward of the tailgate? Or maybe a bit of a raised floor in the bed and a side-to-side tank above the rear IRS setup? I'd have concerns about a front end collision too.. Admittedly, our COEs are not very crash worthy but tossing a ruptured fuel tank into the mix after taking out a Prius could be very unpleasant.
I think it is pretty safe where it is. By the time a Prius gets to it, you will have a lot of other fatal injuries to contend with. My big worry in a cab over is you have very little in front of your knees above the bumper, especially mine with the set-back axle. Contrary to popular belief, very seldom does a fuel tank rupture and incinerate a vehicle that wasn't already compromised to the point of probable fatalities. I even owned a Pinto and am here to tell about it! LOL
Very good points, thanks. Above the rear diff is tough as it would interfere with the bed tilt mechanism I'm planning. A side to side setup above the framerails would be feasible I think but then I wouldn't have the protection of the rails and I don't think I could get more than 20 gallons below the bed . I also want to keep the center of gravity as low as possible to limit body roll. I'm not planning on using the stock evap system or canister although I may add an in-line charcoal filter on the remote vent line if there are issues with fumes. I haven't completely noodled that through. I have been concerned about the lack of a good crumple zone in front. My grill is pretty heavy duty so I was thinking of running bracing back from the grill to the shock towers to provide some more protection. The grill was supported like that in stock form. Thanks for the comments.
On mine the grille is basically a piece of sheet metal and the firewall is 4" behind it, so no chance to brace anything. I'll have to drive like I got a basket of eggs on the front bumper. Do you have a bigger copy of that picture? LOL
Personally, I wouldn't have a problem with the fuel tank under the cab. Lot of early trucks had them under the seat! My F-1 pickup has it behind the seat. Where will the radiator be mounted? As for crumple zones.......I never gave it much thought. Living on the edge I guess...
I'll be driving EXTREMELY defensively. Wrecking something we've put so much time into would be heart-breaking. My radiator is behind the grill with a 2005 Chevy stock core support. I'll actually have some material up front to crunch before my knees. I'll tie the core support back to the cab mount structure.
The Jalopy Journal
