Hello everyone, So I own a '53 210 that I recently pulled the original 216 out of along with the original 3-speed ******. I'm swapping in a '61 235 truck engine. My plan was to swap the original 3-speed ****** onto the 235 and bolt everything back up. But the original ****** is grinding when shifting into 3rd gear and I've been told that is a synchro problem. I've called around to some local shops and have yet to find anyone that is willing to rebuild a ****** this old. Today I came across someone who is selling a 3-speed out of a '55 Chevy that I'm told is in very good condition. Upon doing a bit of research I've found that '55 was the year they switched to open drive shafts, from the torque tube, which is currently on '53. The person wants $250 for the ****** and I've only got two days before it is no longer available. So in the end I guess I'm just looking for thoughts on the problem and suggestions on what might be the best option? If I grab the '55 ******, am I going to have to replace the driveshaft and the rear axle? Or will it bolt up to a torque tube? Or should I just try and find somewhere that can rebuild the original ******? My only stipulation is that I have to keep the "three on the tree" setup. Sorry for the novel, any advice is helpful. Thanks.
rebuild the ****** yourself......easy to do and learn somthing new......if you convert to open drive it will become a way bigger project......
How hard is it to rebuild a a '53 3-speed ******? Like if there is a kit that has the parts I could see myself doing that. But if I have to machine my own parts, that is gonna be way outside of my skill level.
Build the '53 trans - it's as strong as a '55 & it already fits. Buy a '49 - '54 shop manual. Grinding/jumping out of gear on torque tube Chevys can almost always be cured by adding a thicker shim behind 2nd gear to compensate for the worn snap ring groove in the rear of the case.
Get a copy of the factory dealership shop manual as others said. Usually around 35 bucks on Ebay or on Amazon for a reprint. In fact you can read it here for free http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/index.htm section 7 That manual is written at a very low reading level and is very detailed with step by step instructions. Still if you run into any problem stop then and there and ask for help on here. It's a lot better to ask for help than tear something our yourself up in the process. I looked on Ebay and here is a used service manual for 20 bucks and the going price is 20 to 25 for used originals 142407862408 The hardest part of any stick transmission for me is usually keeping track of the little needle bearings that individually go in a couple of places. My fingers don't like to work with that small stuff anymore. Outside of the needed tools a big drip pan with a lip on it on top of the work bench is real nice to have to one, start with a clean work surface with no gaps in it for stuff to fall though and two to catch what gear oil didn't drain out. A buddy who worked on transmissions in the stall next to mine taught me that one 45 years ago. One other thing not mentioned, if you change to a later open drive trans you also have to change the bellhousing to a truck style six cylinder bellhousing as the trans to bellhousing bolt pattern is a lot different.
As for as the 55 Chevy trans price. I can sell you a 55-6-7. Each were working when pulled. $75 each plus shipping. Also a short tailshaft 63 for a hundred plus shipping. $250 is a bit high.
I do have a service manual, it has been a godsend for working on the car. Thanks for all the input. I found a rebuild kit for about $100 online and I've rebuilt most everything else on the car, so I may as well add a transmission to the list.
235 &261 sixes are real work horses. Transmissions of the vintage in your '52 were the best that could be done at the time. Metallurgy moved forward in leaps and bounds during the next decades. By the seventies, transmissions with the same bolt pattern as a '55 in the three speed format were blessed with fully synchromesh. You can shift into first rolling to a stop at a red-light. As in all things mechanical engineering is the key. They change things for good reason. An open drive shaft is a no brainer. You will need a rear end of the same width. AND, the spring bolt on a closed driveshaft vehicle is not in the right location. Speedy Bill can fix that. Best bet for a rearend would be from a '55-'57, if I remember correctly. I will add that an S-10 five speed is also another choice if you go open drive shaft. And, you get that squared away don't forget Fenton headers show up in the cl***ifieds here quite a bit. I will explain my bias against the current trans you have. Back in the sixties I made a trip from Memphis to Provincetown, M***achusetts in a fifty four Chevy delivery. I had to use a belt around my leg to keep it in gear on the way back. I made another trip to California in a fifty five pickup. It was as trouble free as riding the Greyhound and a I got to choose the piss stops.
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