Ok so I just checked the stat in a pot and it started opening at 206 degrees ..The stat is stamped 195 degrees which also seems high..My shop manual says 143 degree thermostat is needed for 53-54 models.... Does that sound about right? I wonder if thats my problem..I am going to run it with out a stat and see where it goes...
stop letting it spill out. Get a piece of hose & a 1 or 2 liter water bottle so it could expand. COLD WATER DOES EXPAND WHEN IT GETS HOT.
Ok so I bought a new ac delco stat that opens at 160 degrees or so....I went ahead and drilled 2 holes 1/8 drill bit on the new stat, bolted it up, added water so that the level was 3 inches fom the top or my index finger. I capped it and let it ran for about 20 minutes or so....I got no more pucking at the tube below the cap...seems to idle fine ....well I have no more puking but not sure if its over heating since I have no gauge...I tested the paper theory at the front of the radiator and its ****ing up good.... I used a infared temp gun from my hvac days and the head got up to 230 degrees on the header side and the block got to 170 on the header side. On the distributor side the head was at 180 ish and the block at like 170... Not sure whats to hot? radiator basin after 20 minutes was at 170 degress.....Should I run it more or what do you guys think?
Wedging an aspirin in the stat will keep it open long enough to purge all the air from the head as an option to drilling.
Hook up a puke tank (i like a monster can) and add in a secondary temp gauge. It is cheaper than a tow bill. you can use your temp gun to "calibrate" a cheap gauge. Mark with a sharpie where 185* really is and go.
So I let sit and idle for another 30 minutes and it sounds way better now that I adjusted the valves .8 in .16 ex...I also checked the points and the advance and moved them a tad...The car sounds great now...I hope it runs lol....So do you know if they sell a replacement sensing bulb? My line was broken at the bulb...I have not come accross them...Also I have a 6 v system and I am not sure if they make gauges in 6 v so that I may hook up a temp gauge and light it up at night...any ideas as to where I can score one are welcomed..... Do you have pics of you custom puke catch can.....
Replacing the bulb is not normally something you can do your self although it has been done at home. That system is filled with a fluid ,usually either, which at room temp is a gas. Just buy a mechanical gauge at Auto Zone etc and the nut on it should screw right into your head like the original. That nut should be a 5/8s X 11 thread as I recall. 6 volt electric gauges were made by SW etc. but doubt if any of the brands around now do 6 V stuff. Personally I refuse to use electric gauges for oil and temp. unless the engine is along way a way like a boat. They are usually slow to react and not too accurate either. Lighting any gauge is just using a bulb of the correct voltage.A mechanical temp gauge should cost less than $30 at A-Zone or similar.And test the new gauge out in a pan of boiling water ,it should read within 5 degrees either way of 212. If off more than that take it back. I've had real good luck with the Auto Zone stuff. I also like the 270* needle sweep ones.
Sounds good John thanks for thee advice..I will go to a-zone tomorrow and see what they have for me....BTW do you know how much gear oil my 3 speed trans takes its a 54 . I filled it to the point where the oil was coming out of the upper filler hole on the ******s p***enger side..After I check the gallon to see how much went in i looks like its less than a quart... My shop manual does not specify amount just weight...Again thanks too all who replied H.a.m.b is the place to be!
You found out how much it needs ,just fill till it over flows the filler hole. About 1 to 1-/2qts was normal . The specs used to be in pounds as in the old saying "a pint's a pound the world 'round" so 2-3 pounds gives what I said in qts.
i am pretty sure there are 2 places to fill on the transmission. check both. one is for the u joint at the back.
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