Hello, Built up a trans mount for a 4 speed in my 54. See pics. My plan was to make the mount removable so the trans could drop straight out. I have it bolted together with 4) 3/8" bolts and now looking at it I'm wondering about the bolts shearing. I have the 350 sbc on lil Daves motor mounts from Gambinos and it seems like a lot of weight will be bouncing around on the trans mount. Should I add a plate that sits on top of the arms coming off of the frame so the bolts aren't supporting the weight? S**** it and burn the car? Thanks
i'd drill the flanges out and use 1/2" bolts. how thick are those flanges? the rest looks like 1" square tubing....correct? with that span i'd have used bigger maybe run another brace up from the bottom of the frame rails to the flanges , but that might get in the way of exhaust
36-3, I believe it's 3/16 on the flanges and 1" square. I did this last fall and need to see how much metal I have around the bolt holes to drill them out. May have to cut them off and replace. Once I pulled the supports out and saw how much weight was on the mount I decided I would have to add a diagonal brace from the frame. Hoping to get back to it soon. Thanks
A lot of weight on that tube and those bolts. I'd gusset the RHS brackets from the drop out flange to the ch***is on both members to add some much needed support otherwise I can see a failure over time. Could I suggest removing current set up entirely and weld thicker rectangular flat plates (1/4") to inside of top hat ch***is and use a single heavier RHS section with similar flanges on each side. Drill and tap each side to suit 2 x 7/16" UNF HT bolts. Problem solved. This is an off the shelf mount that bolts to frame http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/ch***is-suspension/0203sc-eight/ Ch***is engineering also have them, not that expensive. http://www.ch***isengineeringinc.com/at-1054-transmission-crossmember-36-54-chevy-top-hat-frames/
In my opinion, those 3/8" bolts will stand any strain your likely to place on them. The rest of the mount is lighter duty than I would think is desirable. The post immediately above, mgtstumpy's, offers some very good suggestions. Ray
what you removed from that spot was not just a transmission cross member. it was a structural part of the frame. you should replace it with something more stout.
Indeed. Go to the Walton Fabrication site and look at what they make. What you have there won't survive the first ride.
Here's a good write-up on installing a Walton one. That will give you an idea of a structure that is necessary. http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/ch***is-suspension/0203sc-eight/ You may have already removed too much of this structure.
All, Thanks for the info. Much appreciated. It looks like I'll be removing what I have, welding plates on the frame and then welding in a K-member of RHS no lower than the bottom level of the frame. My goal will be a solid structure from side to side and a drop out mount if possible. I guess I'm only out a few dollars of steel and a handful of cutoff wheels.
Hey Guys, Just another thank you and a little update. My body is too far gone for what I want to deal with. I would have to buy every panel made and still fab stuff like the front curve of the roof, B pillars etc. I found another car without the front sheet metal or drivetrain and picked it up this summer. Sooooooo, mine came off and I hacked out the erecter-set mount I made last year. Added plates to the frame and built a crossmember/trans mount from rectangular steel. It's not the prettiest but I think it will support the trans and engine and hopefully put some support back into the frame. I think I'll end up tying the lower 4-link mounts into the cross brace while the body is off too. A little more welding and frame cleanup then I can start stripping the new firewall, steering column etc. at least I've already done that once so I know what I'll do differently on this body. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yup, that setup is going to work much better! Luckily you didn't have to find out the hard way! Keep plugging away.
Thanks Guys! I started with the Gambino notch and ultra low front setup last year. Since then I've developed a bad case of the While-I'm-At-It's. I'd like to rip down the road but I'm trying to do things logically for once so I don't have to fight it later when the cars back together. Here's my new donor. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Oh man! Do I know what it's like to have a case of the "while-I'm-at-it's"! I went from a driver with a tired engine to this. I was planning an engine/trans swap and deal with steering and get it back on the road. That snowballed into what you see above. A FULL project. My advice would be to do what you need to get it on the road, and then continue to work on it as a driver. I totally understand the doing things in a logical order, but it's way easier to stay motivated on a running car, even if the job would have been easier before. Just some food for thought. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
What, you mean like my Falcon, that was just going to get a distributor and a carburetor, for the stock 144? And then it got a T5 And disc brakes And all new suspension And an 8.8 from a Ranger And pannasport replica wheels And a killer stereo And then a T56 And then a well-built 200, with EFI And a Jag fuel cap And a 22-gallon tank And radiused rear wheel arches, using modified front arches And bucket seats And a new interior And then it's going to the body shop? I have no idea whatsoever about what you speak of.
Haha, I guess I'm in good company then. And thanks Devin. I found this thing in a pasture in northern Oregon with 56 plates and last registered in 81. It had a really ugly Buick transplant with an auto trans. Engine was full of water and rusted solid. Bought the Gambino setup (that was so slick it made me think I knew what I was doing), found a 350 on Craigslist and bought a rebuilt Saginaw 4 speed from a local shop. Pretty much blew my wad there. Luckily steel is relatively cheap so the frame stuff isn't costing much. So....... No wiring, brake or fuel lines, radiator, gas tank or pedals. But it sits nice. Haha. Hoping to be driving next summer for the Rod Run in Long Beach, WA. Wouldn't have done any of it if it wasn't for this site and Alex. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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