1952-59 Ford 54 Customline Build Thread

'nother vote for the color scheme Skoh did for you. Looks great .

 

UPDATE!!! Got my alternator hooked up. Looks good in there...sorta. Also got the chrome valve covers on. Anyone have an idea of what to use to bolt them down? The nuts I have on there are really old and look ****py on there. BUT! Thats not even the best news! I got my exhaust put on today. 2 1/4 inch all the way back. 22" Smithys! I'll post some pics and videos later on. Also had antifreeze leak into the cab of the car! YIKES! So the heater is getting disconnected and I'm just gonna run a byp*** hose on the engine. Thats it for now. Stay tuned!

Rocky

 

I have those smithy's on mine, and man do they sound great!

 

Rocky - I don't know how long you might have the temporary byp*** hose on your heater plumbing (sometimes in Arizona it turns out to be forever) - but put a br*** 3/8 pipe plug in that line (it'll stick and stay put in 5/8 hose OK). There is a short byp*** hose right under the thermostat housing - and now a second for this heater short - both of them will let a lot of hot water byp*** your radiator completely. The return for them is at a suction point for the water pump - and the pump will be (too) eager to take it. Its two garden hose sized lines going around the radiator and the Y-block pump isn't so efficient that the cooling system won't notice.

For a hot weather machine - get one of the "high flow" thermostats from Mr Gasket (for a big block Chrysler) drill three 3/16 holes in it like this picture.

Then put another 3/8 plug in the shorty line under thermostat housing. It should have an 1/8 hole to let air bleed back through when she's stopped. All of the hot water will then be going through the rad.

 

Or replace the old heater core with one from a mid 90's Ford Ranger, almost the same size they run around $35.I would also pull back the carpet on the p*** side,my '54 had rusted the floor where the heater core leak was,the jute backing holds moisture like a sponge and rust will continue plus you may get a nasty case of mold.With it pulled back and a day of AZ sun to dry it spray some Lysol on the carpets underside then spray some Rustoleum on the metal.

 

Sounds like you've been making a lot of progress. Post some pics when you can of the stance.

 

Jeff, I've never replaced a heater core. Is it hard to do? Also, is that a direct bolt in part? Skoh, pics will be coming soon. Probably this weekend.

 

Heater core on a '54 is a piece of cake,about 8 screws hold the housing onto the firewall then it slips right out.I had Hal's radiator shop in Glendale pressure test mine sometimes they can be soldered like a radiator.

 

UPDATE: I got my aerostar springs installed this weekend. I am very happy I did the sawp. The 54 rides better than my 04 dodge. Also scored some steel wheels with good tires on them. They were in a junk pile at a buddys place. Free if I got them out, so I did. Not certain they will fit, but I'm hoping. That way I can ditch the cragars. Next project to tackle is the dual master cylinder. Just gotta figure out the plumbing. Need to have her ready for the rockabilly reunion in mid feb. at lake havasu, az.

 

how much drop? looks good!

 

post up a before and after side shots of the aero star springs! nice progress

 

So I took the car to work today. About 10-15 miles away. Car ran great. Hopped on the highway after work and drove another 20 or so miles. Steering is a little loose, but that should be easy. Picked my pops up from the casino. We started out of the parking lot and someting is knocking really hard while driving. But when I push in the brakes, it stops. I have no clue what it could be. All the lug nuts are tight, so I know its not that. Anyone have any ideas? Much appreciated in advance.

Rocky

 

Not enough information...

 

Is the noise coming from the front or rear? '54 Fords do not have self adjusting brakes so you may want to jack it up and adjust them and check for play in the wheel bearings and repack them if you do take the old seals to NAPA to match up thats where I found mine,when you do your dual master give me a call and I'll tell you what fittings you need.While you have it jacked up check for play in the driveshaft keeping an eye on the U-joints.Still think the Cragars look damn good on that car.

 

Sorry, the knocking seems to be coming from the front, on the drivers side. I'll have to wait until tomorrow to check it all out. I'll check the brakes and bearings. Thankss jeff! I'm gonna try to do that swap this weekend, so I will give you a call then.

 

Is it a tap, or a deep knock? And does it pull to the driver side?

Edit: also, with that stance, and those tires, keep the cragars for a while. 1963, represent! Looks ***s!

 

Its a deep knock. I dont remember it pulling to the drivers side. And thanks crestline, I'll keep them for a while until I can get some steelies. Everyone I work with likes them on there too. Get lots of compliments on the car.

 

Yeah, just jack it up and see whats going on. It can only be so many different things.
IMO, I'd hold off on the steelies until you get a set of WWW's. I dunno, just my two cents, not that they're worth a damn.

You know what you want out of your car! Never deviate from your dream.

 

Ok, so we definitely know its coming from the front. Took the wheels off and turned the hubs. No funny noises or knocks. So we determined that it only occurs with the car fully on the ground. You guys still think brakes or bearing?

 

I wish I could help ya with yer problem, but I can't. I just wanted to say that I love the new stance! Lookin' good!

 

Rocky ,
Before you tear the front brakes apart try swapping a different set of wheels around . I had a set of them on my Super Bee back in the 1970's and I had a knocking noise pretty bad from the rear one night . Came out to be that the damn lug holes got out of round and the wheel was moving back and forth on the damn studs ! The lugs were rounding out the mag holes and that's what was making the banging noise . Took me forever to figure it out but that's what it was . Try putting a mag on and tighten down the lugs , then have someone push on the brakes and see if the wheel will move back & forth . If not try putting on a different set of wheels and see what happens .

Jim

 

If you have a couple wheels from the parted out '54 put them on front and road test it.

 

Hehehehehe boy do I feel like an idiot.... it was just the p***enger wheel. Shine came over and we took the wheel off, then put it back on. Perfect! Hahahahaha so she's back in business!! Thanks guys for the help! Jim, good idea! Thanks!

 

Nother update!! Took off work early tonight to come home and detail the car. Our new member, shine, is gonna do a photoshoot with the car tomorrow. So I'm hoping we get some sweet pics out of it. Just wanted to show you guys just how good those cragars shined up. I didn't take them off the car, so they aren't perfect, but they will work. Starting to like them more and more every day.


Before


After

Thanks for lookin! Hopefully update with some good shots tomorrow!

Rocky

 

Ok, so as everyone knows, I've had issues with the dual master cylinder swap. Got that all sorted out this morning around 1 am. So we took it down to the local ACE Hardware to buy some stuff. On the way back, it acted like I had run out of gas. Would not start. So I pushed it off the main road into a neighborhood. Went and got gas, put it in, and fired it right up. Drove it home and it did the same thing right before I got it into my driveway. So we left the key in the "on" position and checked the fuel filter. No gas was coming to it. So we determined the line was clogged. Sure enough, hooked up an air hose and took off the gas cap. Pushed it right out of the line. Gas was flowin good. Hooked it all back up and she's fine, for now. I'm sure it will happen again on the way to Havasu. Pops said that if I have a full tank it should help. We'll see. Wish me luck!

 

Do yourself a favor and pickup a can of Berryman Chemtool and dump in the tank it will dissolve and clean out the gunk,may want to take an extra filter along for the trip.The Techtron in Chevron gas is a good cleaner too.Have a safe trip and bring us some pics!

 

Hey Jeff, I actually have a can of that in my garage somewhere. Would I be able to pour it in tonight and still drive out at noon tomorrow? I wont be able to put it in until midnight or so tonight.

 

You should be able to drive with it OK,it tells you on the can it may run a little rough at first while it cleans but a good trip like that should clean it out,that and a tank of Chevron with Techtron.

 

It may be a little late as you may have already left, but be sure to take all the tools you need to service your fuel system along on your journey.

If you blew the "hairball" back into the tank, it's still in there and it'll be back. It's got nowhere else to go.

Also, any sort of fuel system flush will dislodge even more of the crud that's in your tank and it, too, will try to make its way up the fuel line.

Some extra fuel filters and an air tank with a rubber-tipped "blower" on the end will be your best friends, along with a set of line wrenches...just in case you have to take the whole works apart.

I just dropped the tank on my Merc and it's amazing how much rust and unidentifiable **** collects in the bottom...soon to appear in your fuel filter or, worse yet, in the fuel bowl and jets of your carburetor.

Like the Boy Scouts say, "be prepared"!

 

Haven't left yet, but I have 2 full tool boxes of tools ranging from brake s****s to rubber mallets and everything in between. Hell I even have a new fuel pump. Jack and jackstands too. Extra oil and water. Hope I won't need any of it though.