Technical 54 WCFB woes and my incompetence

.035 it is then.

 

So does anybody out there have a distributor that matches mine that only has 12° of mechanical dance in it? I’m extremely curious

or can somebody tell me how to limit the mechanical advance in this 1954 Chrysler distributor?

 

How does it work without the vacuum hooked up?

 

Well, it does exactly the same thing as it did yesterday after I put the points in. I got an extra 1200 RPM maybe a few RPMs more before it started flatlining and it still does not work on the secondaries.

 

Like TOMCATTI said to do: I’m going to remove the vacuum advance tomorrow and advance the timing to 5°, which will bring me in at a total of 32° which as the book states is by design the perfect timing.

don’t ***** about there having no vacuum, the total advance Tom said should be 32 and we will see how it runs over half throttle at 32. And move forward from there.

and I pray that this finally gets solved.

 

Can anyone explain why it might not be a sloppy timing chain /worn gears skipping teeth back and forth? I'm just curious. Thanks in advance.

 

it cannot be a sloppy timing chain because of sloppy timing chain shows up in timing light bounce, and timing mark changes.

 

What if it skipped a tooth?

 

Well if it skipped a tooth, the piston stop and the zero degree mark would not line up. but the do.

 

So you suppose Ethel chain is loose enough to skip a tooth and then not have any timing jump?

 

How do you know it didn't skip back when you checked it?

 

I am not comprehending your statements. Unless you’re asking if the timing chain is randomly skipping teeth?
This is not a chain issue. Of that I am 100% positive.

 

"Netanyahu, Nolan Adverse, and Ethel" were working on an old car ...

 

Okay, don’t be a twit.

I know how **** works, it’s not a skipped chain for Christ sake.

 

Step 1. Rotate the engine so cylinder #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke then remove the distributor cap and verify the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire terminal.
Step 2. Install the second set of points and adjust the dwell to 32-36 deg.
Step 3. Disconnect the vacuum line from the distributor and plug the vacuum line so you don't have a vacuum leak.
Step 4. Hook up your timing light.
Step 5. Start the engine again and set the idle at 475-500 rpm.
Step 6. Loosen the distributor and if necessary rotate it so you read 4 deg. BTDC. If the rpm changes adjust it so you can achieve both at the same time.
Step 7. Tighten the distributor clamp and rev the engine to 2100 rpm and read and record the timing.
Step 8. If you do not have 24 crankshaft deg. (12 deg. dist)@2100 rpm your distributor is not achieving factory specifications and it will have to be repaired and/or have the timing curve adjusted to factory specifications.
Step 9. If you do read 24 crankshaft deg.@2100 rpm. shut of the engine, remove the plug and reconnect the vacuum line.

That is what the good book says. Read the specifications that Anthony posted on page 5 of this thread.

 

You are getting this **** confused. I did not say this. See may last post #286

 

I just thought if it was not the spark getting to the cylinder at the correct time after adjusting the timing and it wasn;t fuel or spark then it must be something in the timing chain that would make sense to me

 

The timing chain is almost certainly worn out (unless it's been replaced) and will usually retard the camshaft timing. This can change the ignition timing too and definitely screw up the performance of the engine. If it skipped a tooth then that's even worse.

Mostly true. Some can come from a worn cam or distributor gear.

 

I will do this first thing tomorrow morning. But I won’t have the set of points until the end of the week. And I wish somebody could explain to me why a single set of points for perform in this particular setup. An engine is an engine.
Dual points were designed to extend the dwell time for the coil to saturate before firing. Simple math states that if I get a 36 degree dwell with a single set of points, it will provide the same spark as dual points at 32 degrees of dwell if not more, isn’t that correct mechanically speaking???

 

After 1000 miles everybody’s timing chain is stretched. I don’t know the last time this woman replaced. But the timing does not behave as if it has a stretched chain and the compression readings certainly shows that there is no jump climbing.

 

@tomcat11, do you think that weak valve springs might be a problem?

 

Wasn't he the Prime Minister of Israel?

 

Weak valve springs wouldn’t cause two different rpm results for timing breakup.

 

This is really getting interesting at this point, in the dialog a**** the participants!
Mr. Carburetor face is now looking a bit befuddled!
This photograph is added to this thread, only to provide a bit of humor !



Go for it Gary, a lot of us would really like to see, the full on remedy, that solves the problem.
Thanks from Dennis.

 

They are probably weaker than what they were when new, I don't think this thing has revved high enough to be an issue.

 

It also says that a 1954 V8 should have 150 psi of compression, with less than 20 psi of variance. Gary reported 140 130 psi as the highest and 109 psi as the lowest. I'm guessing that that isn't causing this problem.

 

this is hilarious

 

have you ever driven a worn out motor that you could put the foot to the floor and it still goes? Well, I have a few of them in my driveway , it’s not the freaking compression for chrissake.

 

The guys are half right, it’s part electric and it’s part fuel.

the FULL electric system will be brand spanking *** new by Friday, fully set to the specs above. Ohm reading of the coil will be performed tomorrow morning. I will only replace the oem coil if the ohm readings bother someone, but if the New coil sports the same readings, the coil stays.

So with that. Goodnight folks.

 

Yes it is blowing blue oil smoke and seen better days. Those numbers are not very good. Without a total rebuild this is just a best effort deal.